Separating lower control arm from ball joint stud

What is the best way to separate the lower ball joint from the control arm without damaging the rubber seal? I don't want to use a pickle type separator. Everything is clean and painted and detailed and I don't want to scratch anything up. I need to get this separated so I can change the lower control arm bushings. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

You can buy a tool to separate the joint without hurting it from harbor freight.
hope this link works
How to Remove a Ball Joint Safely - Harbor Freight Ball Joint ...
Video for ball joint tool▶ 6:46
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcCfWmrVQfM

Gus

HF tool is great. Load it up and some light hammer taps.

I've backed off the bj nut a couple of turns then used two ball peen hammers, one held with the ball end against the spindle and the other whacking the first, with the arm hanging down and the bar not backed off so the spring load helps to pop it loose. Trade places on the spindle while whacking with the hammers. I have used the pullers too which are awesome but sometimes you can't fit them in.

I have also unbolted the balljoint from the spindle, then you can remove the control arm with the balljoint still attached. Just an alternative.

Hammers always wok for me.Even at the shop i used them and did probally thousands.Just leave the nut on a few threads.Only had to use my fork a few times in 40 years.Rocky

I usually Use an air hammer with a flat faced hammer bit on the side of the eye the ball joint taper goes through. It seems to work as well as the ball peen hammers mentioned above and gets into tight places where swinging a hammer is difficult.

Air hammer works the best and easier to aim.

Everything is clean and painted and detailed and I don't want to scratch anything up.

Gotta love Moparts answers.

Beat on it with a hammer.

No, beat on it with an AIR hammer.

let's put a steam roller on it.

Maybe some C4.

How about we just torch it and call it a day.

I've had great success with the Harbor Freight ball joint separator on my Mopar and AMC front suspension work. I highly recommend it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAutomotive%2B%2526%2BMotorcycle%2F%2F%2F%2FSuspension&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand

Well using a hammer was done for decades and still is.Not everyone has a show car and worried about hitting a arm with a hammer or air hammer.Rocky

I don't know of a cleaner method to separate a tapered stud than the 2-hammer method. Use a heavy hammer to brace the back side of the housing and the largest hammer you can to smack the opposite side.

Using a light hammer needlessly beats things up.

The special tool usually requires a hammer blow, also.

and just SOMETIMES, you WILL damage the paint because there is NO WAY to prevent that from happening when disassembling certain components no matter HOW CAREFUL you try to be. it's the nature of the beast [as some would say].

As the Doc said

I have also unbolted the balljoint from the spindle, then you can remove the control arm with the balljoint still attached. Just an alternative.

I'd probably have to repaint the lower control arm after I replaced the bushings anyway. Use the hammer, replace the bushings, and repaint before assembly, as required.

Unbolting the spindles will require removing the brake drum or the caliper and rotors, which may all be painted as well. At the very least you will be repainting the spindle bolts and nuts. More stuff to scratch up.

All this fancy paint is a pain in the azz, my suspension stuff that would get painted would have been painted with a spray bomb, its pretty easy to touch up. Gene

Perhaps you can find something here that may help.

http://www.manciniracing.com/frsuto.html

I like and use the Mancini front end tool for this joint. I got the kit. And yes... when everything is in place and tensioned up a carefully placed hammer blow helps break it loose. Just leave the nut on loose to catch it when it goes.

I use two 2lb sledge hammers hold one against one side control arm and smack the other side with the second hammer after you loosen the nut.. usually pops right loose and doesn't damage the boot..

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I'll get either the Harbor Freight tool, or the tools from Mancini