Lemon Twist / Base Clear

What is the best match to Lemon twist yellow in a modern day base clear? And...Does anyone have a problem with a total restoration using modern day paints?

It's going to be that you have no choice to using modern day paints.

The biggest problem that I have seen with them has been color match. Most of them come out to light. If you can get them to match color you should be OK

In a solid color, single stage will look better.

Color match is not an issue if you have a competent mixer and purchase quality products and perform a spray out before application, the question is what finish do YOU desire on the vehicle, single stage, BC/CC?

Color matches are off for most of the major suppliers in the last decade or so due to trying to simplify the computer mix programs, this means reducing or eliminating ALTs, or combining the ALTs for a single formula, or the merging of paint formulas that were used by several different auto mfgs, past and/or present into a single formula for the consumer

mike

PPG toners for yellow have been altered in the last few years for base-clear so expect the colors to be off. The single stage components are still ok.

If you want oem looking paint you should do it with acrylic enamel and spray it and leave the orange peel alone. Corvette guys who are serious still track down lacquer paint because that is what the factory used.

Base-clear wetsanded and buffed out does not look like the factory paint job. If you have a super rare and highly expensive car you want to sell to make money on later then the contemporary base-clear finishes should be off the list.

Definitely 2 schools of thought. My A12 was done in base clear. After going through all the cost of restoration, I wanted slick paint.

Just never heard of anyone walking away from a car cause it was painted too nice. Over restored with a body colored painted bottom yes...

As Mike said the BC vs OE thing is a matter of taste. As far as color match none of the suppliers will have a stock mix that is right. I always get something close and fiddle with sprayouts. Sometimes as many 8 or 9 to get it to match an area that is untouched on that particular car. Under the windshield gasket is the best place if it has not been out. I think I have a Chroma Base formula for FY1 I did many years ago if interested. Be advised though different days/plants can have different shades of the same color. Another reason to match every car.

This is so true. Having one of the "experts" tell a guy that his original owner car must have been repainted because it wasn't real B5 blue was hysterical.

There is a standardized mix formula but no "true" correct color because of variations between plants.

Personally, I would do base/clear & a very light #2000 wet sand to knock down any dust or impurities that settle in the clear, but DO NOT flat-sand if you want to retain the factory orange peel look, which I prefer for an "original" looking finish. The sucked-glass look is nice, but too 'show car' for me.

I bought some Chroma Base to paint the quarter panel on my DD Envoy. The guy asked if I wanted regular or exact match. He said he would guarantee exact match would match. My Envoy is a 2003 and never been garaged. Without even seeing the vehicle the reddish/maroon did match perfectly. I have painted many cars and was surprised. If you try Chroma Base ask about exact match paint.

PPG store has color chips for oem colors on new cars that are a range so you can pick the one closest to what you have. It may need to be tinted slightly if your picky.

Also if you want to use clear coat but not sand it as much let the painter know ahead of time. Most guys pound that stuff on thick as they plan on sanding a few mills back off to get it super smooth prior to buffing. They will care more about avoiding runs and dirt if they know most of it has to stay on the car.