Re-wiring your car questions

I have been considering re-wiring my Savoy with an updated universal system with fresh wires. Like a lot of our cars the wires and connectors are getting very brittle and and are really not up to the job with added accessories and higher output alternators. I was considering just adding a 5 circuit sub system for my added components or should I just change over the entire system with fresh wires to all components. I have an MSD ignition so that system is very basic and I also have upgraded to a Denso internal regulator alt. so that should also make easier. I just need a basic system to run the lights,wipers,fuel pump,and horn.
Thanks in advance

Gus

Start over with as much new as you can get.

For the money, it's hard to beat American Autowire. I did a total rewire, 12V conversion, & alternator on a guy's '53 Ford F250 and it was pretty clear & easy with their dedicated kit, and I'd expect their universal stuff to be likewise.

Yeah I was looking at their products and the Mopar specific system was $999.00

I think I may go with the universal system.

Gus

I agree as much new as possible.

I suggest start with a repop harness and integrate the added systems.

If you are going to do the whole kit-n-kaboodle yourself it can be a painstaking mess.
If you do it all yourself a trick is to take a plywood sheet and nail/tie your old harness to it stretched out like you are tanning a deerskin. Mark the wires and where the connectors are. Then mock up the new harness on the board and leave at least 6" extra wire beyond the pigtail location for extra measure. Leave the connectors off at first and tie the harness with Plastic ties, I use the removable ones.
Test fit the harness and integrate any new components into the harness at this time, make sure you mount the MSD, etc to the car so you are sure it fits to the harness and car.

If it's a simple harness you can finish the ends while it's in the car. If not make sure the connectors fit the harness, mark and trim as necessary. Remove and install the ends.

SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS That you can. Don't skimp on this step.

I will say that is very true. It took me nearly 3 months worth of time to finish wiring my car. Granite I did a from-scratch fuse box and have EFI...but it can be quite extensive.



...this too. Every connection on my car is crimped and soldered.

Start from scratch with Rapidroberts help. When I wired my 39 Plymouth pick up he broke it down and made the job easier. Learned a lot and it wasn't that hard.

Well I've been doing wiring for over 30 years and I used to wire complete utility trucks with man lifts,cable pullers,generators etc. so I know how to wire a vehicle.I should probably re-phrase my question to "what kit do you guys like to use"
There are at least a hundred differn't universal kits out there made in a dozen countries. All I need is just a basic deal with enough circuits to be legal for road use.
Just asking what have you used and what were the problems you had with various kits so I know what works best.

Thanks for all the information so far.

Gus

gus, a simple, basic system, can sometimes be better going one wire at a time. that is, if you are not in a huge hurry, and want to learn a lot about the circuits present. what ever you decide, and i can't emphasize this enough, use QUALITY wire, terminals, and crimping tools ! solder if you wish, but don't OVER DO it on the solder, making it a brittle joint. there is a reason the OEM's crimp 95% of all connections. marine shrink tube with the adhesive is all i recommend when shrink tube is required on a termination or a splice. keep as many factory style plugs as you can when plugging in components, and protect your harness with proper routing and grommets, then the outer sheaving can be what ever you choose, as there are multiple choices available. i, however, dislike the late model plastic split loom cover that comes in a bunch of colors ! but that's just me. take a little time and you can do a GREAT job, it's not that hard ! just don't do anything like this mess i had to fix one time !

TE connectivity splice bands

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e...25CT-ND/2233549

How often do you see solder used on OEM applications ?...

I've used "Ron Frances", "It's a Snap", and "Keep it Clean" wiring kits and they all were pretty easy. That said, I would NEVER use a "Ron Frances" kit again simply because they use a proprietary solid state fuse panel that only they can fix.

I'm currently wiring my '64 Polara with the "Keep it Clean" kit. This is big block 4 speed car that has a Vintage Air kit installed. This kit is one of their "bare bones kits" that is basically just the fuse panel and associated wiring and does not include the wiring for most of the car. It was cheap (under $100 on sale) and if you purchase the rest of the wire and connectors yourself its still a good deal. However, there is no way I would recommend this kit for a beginner.

The best of the three in my opinion was the "It's a Snap" 18 circuit kit. I used this one on a '53 Chebby pickup I built that was early hemi powered and had a Hot Rod Air AC unit installed. I also used it on my 32 Ford 3 window coupe. This kit is pretty complete, has good directions, and is pretty much a piece of cake to install.

Hope this helps.

American Autowire, their Hiway series kits sound like exactly what you need.

I put a complete universal wiring harness in my 47 Desoto w/318/833. I got the one made by speedway motors it was the cheapest I found. It was the fewest circuit harness they made and I didn’t use all of them. The plug for the steering column was for a GM column. I had to cut it off and figure out how to make it work with the 88 Dakota column I put in the car. It wasn’t that hard to do and it was my first time wiring a complete car. Speedway harness’s are worth checking out IMO.

Don't solder, use the proper sized quality terminals and crimpers.
A bad solder joint, which is wàaaaay to easy to do will be brittal, ask guys who work on airplanes.

I owned and worked on my own airplane for 15 years under the direct supervision of a A&P and Inspector authorized designated engineer.
The main reason they don't use solder connections on factory airplanes is weight and wire gauge size as well as the airplane flying in all kinds of weather with massive air temp changes and vibration
I worked for the local phone company for over 33 yrs, we solder every permanent connections in the equipment offices and on all the inter connection wiring on most of the wires. If you solder and heat shrink the connections properly and make sure they aren't moving around a bunch you will be fine, as I'm sure Gus already knows that

A friend of mine wired his 53 Chevy Bel Air with American autowire kit. Took him about a week and he has almost no experience with wiring cars other then wiring up a stereo. I have the American autowire highway series for my 63 Valiant convertible that I'm going to install eventually. Need to replace my floors first. Since I have to weld and all and don't want to burn the wires.

I've used two different kits. My Cuda has an ARC kit. Super simple and I reàlly like their set up. Plenty of wire, nice directions as well as options.

The second was a Painless kit that went in my wagon. What a POS.
I would never use them again. Wire was cheap, poor connections and their suggested wiring diagram was crap.

Well I'm leaning to the American Hiway series but if the Keep It Clean site was better I might use them but I will check them out by phone.
Thanks again for all the responses BTW I always crimp,solder,shrink ALL connections unless they are shock mounted.

Gus