Crappy Spectra Radiator CU959 problem

I bought this radiator just to get my Power Wagon back on road until I can have original re-cored. Supposed to be direct fit drop in. First problem I noticed is one of the bottom holes to secure to rad support doesn't line up well enough so both top and bottom will line up, so I'm going to have to file it a bit. Annoying.

But biggest issue is this: the oil and trans cooler bungs at bottom aren't "direct fit". They come with a hose fitting that screws into the bung on new radiator, then I guess I'm supposed to bridge a piece of rubber hose between the new supplied fitting and my factory steel line that have flange and coupler that butted up against the factory radiator and attached the line to the radiator. Well with the supplied fitting attached to new radiator, the factory steel line overlaps the fitting they supplied, so basically I would need a rubber line to bridge the two shaped like a Z. I don't know what the heck I'm supposed to do now. I hope someone knows what I'm talking about. I didn't have time to take and upload pics this morning, and now I'm asking for this help from work. I don't want to cut the factory steel line shorter because I plan to go back to my factory radiator, and the factory line has a nice flange and coupler to mate right up to the original radiator.

Since this radiator is only temporary and you don't want to modify your original trans lines...

I might consider running a remote cooler and not use the cooler in the rad. The original lines might have enough "flex" that you can get a hose on the end and still clear the lower rad tank. Mount the new cooler in front of the rad for now.

Good advice...Only other real option would be to see if advance auto,autozone, etc.. Has a fitting in their inventory for the correct bridge between the rad and the line...So much for the "direct fit"...

Is it possible the fittings in the bottom of your original radiator will come off and then fit into the new radiator?

Sounds like you have already cut your original lines. You should be able to add (or remove) more of the bend at a factory bends on the line to meet with the fitting at the rad.

Direct fit aftermarket stuff means it sort of fits in the hole, and things can be adapted to make it work. They assume that when you buy a replacement part, originality is no longer a concern and you will adapt your stuff to fit their almost correct stuff. As much as it might suck, that is the world in which we now live. Gene

What about the other line on the other side of radiator? Is one and in and one an out? I'm ignorant on the subject.

So just run two long rubber oil rated lines to a cooler behind grille, and plug the two bungs on radiator?

This is the POS radiator. In person you see how shoddily made it is. I expected that but want to get the truck back on the road asap. The mounting bolt flange that is causing issue is one of the bottom upside down U's. One of them is not deep enough, so radiator won't sit down low enough for top bolt to line up. It's only by maybe 1/16th of an inch, but just enough to keep bolt from line up just right. So I'm going to have to file it down. Again, just shoddy craftsmanship.

and these are the fittings that extend out too long and cause the fittings off the radiator and the factory steel lines to overlap. I think even if I cut them a bit they are still much too long.

If the trans lines physically line up with the fittings on the new radiator, you can easily do this. Make sure the threads in the new rad are the same as the original and you can just swap fittings.

Came across this and other issues in 2012 with the van radiator, ended up having it (the oe chrysler radiator) recored. Spectra doesnt give two-***** about how their stuff fits and how universal they make something to maximize the applications and make it cost less for them.

Send it back and fix yours now

Thanks guys. I think maybe I'm going to do just that, so I just hung up with local radiator shop that's the best around. Owner is taking vacation (nerve of him haha). He can measure up and order core but can't have it done until after Christmas. I'm so tempted to send this POS back to rockauto and tell them Spectra makes junk and they should drop them, and wait out the local radiator shop who does quality work, and then have my quality Mopar radiator back. Re-core will run anywhere from $300 to $500 (ouch) depending on size, and truck came with "Max Cooling" so I know it will lean toward the $500, but honestly, right now, I don't care. I'd much rather pay that than play games with this aftermarket crap!!!

I should have just done this in the first place (re-core). I knew better too. Just figured I'd take a chance again, an have a radiator at my door in three days, and truck back on road in four days. Got burned. Lesson learned for good this time!

Call Glen ray and ask them how soon they could recore it. They did my heater core in just around 2 days. Great service.

Ok, will do!

Just hung up with Glen Ray....one month turn around time right now.

Thanks for trying though. I guess business is good, which is good.

Been searching for a NOS one too. Would love to find one on ebay or Arizonaparts but none so far. Mopar #4089567

So it's a crappy radiator? You can just tell? One bolt hole doesn't line up? Boo hoo! You should work on my '64Dog.
Nearly all holes are slotted, Nothing just drops together. Even just putting the trans tunnel cover on is a chore requiring prybars.

It is even money whether the new radiator or your existing radiator support are 1/16" off. Yet you get on your soapbox and start hollering. Shoddy part! Crappy radiator!


What kinds of ends are on your existing cooler lines? They are probably inverted flares. So you need to bridge the gap. That's where you go to class and learn about fittings. You need a male probably 1/4 NPT and the other end is probably inverted flare like used for fuel and brake lines.
Something that looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GAR-48IC4X2-1-8-NPT-to-7-16-24-Inverted-Flare-1-4-Hard-Brake-Line-Brass-Adapter/261345327025?hash=item3cd96537b1:g:lKgAAOxy3NBSnPVt&vxp=mtr



I have found the largest assortment at Ace Hardware.

I can buy that exact radiator and have it delivered to my door for less than $100. Rockauto.com.

R.

Probably would fit if you swapped the fittings off your old radiator onto the new onwe

dogdays, i DID buy it off rockauto for that price, and mentioned that in one of my posts. I guess you didn't read thoroughly. I DID get fittings with it, which I mentioned but you didn't read that either I guess. I mentioned that using fittings causes the line and the fitting to overlap each other, so I can't connect them. Geez. And no, it's not just because one of the mounting posts is off. It's the workmanship throughout the radiator. I know shoddiness when I see it and feel it. It's cheap as crap and I can tell. All the fittings and seams look awful and feel very cheap, and no doubt will not last. The factory radiator fits fine, so no the existing support is not off. And, I can can see on the new radiator that the one side is cut differently than the other side, causing the mounting hole to not line up. I looked this thing over carefully before judging. There are other issues with it I didn't mention but worked around. Lastly, I'm not happy because it was supposed to be a "Direct Fit", so that I don't have to go to Ace, or anywhere else for that matter, or grind or file or anything else.

Try a decaf. You seem kind of uptight.

Sorry you got a $100 radiator made on Monday. Send it back, the next one might be perfect, or it might be worse. The radiator you got is about as good as any "direct fit" replacement parts get, regardless of whom made it. Everything in the automotive industry is made to a spec, with a + or - tolerance. Your truck could be on one end of the tolerance, and the replacement rad may be on the other end of the tolerance. At the factory, they would have made the rad fit in the truck with a simple die grinder and about 30 seconds.

The problems you are having would take 10 minutes to fix, I would have already had them done, rather then come on here and complain.
Option 1 is: The fittings on your original rad would probably screw out of the old rad and screw into the new rad. Then you can hook up your cooler lines.
The 2nd option would be to put a little grease on the end of the hose, and see it you can force it over the flared end of the tubing, and put a little more bend into the tubing bends to get the correct length. Trust me, there is enough flexibility in the steel tubing to accommodate the inch or so you will need.
The 3rd option would be to cut the lines with a tubing cutter and put in a piece of hose.
The 4th option would have been to buy higher quality rad rather then the cheapest thing you could find.

To fix the non-fitting bolt slot: File the sheet metal bracket for clearance. 2) Cut the sheet metal with tin snips to clear the bolt. 3) drag out the Dremal tool, or the die grinder and grind the clearance you need in the bracket. 4) drill a new hole and add a bolt, flat washers, and a nut.

I wouldn't suggest you attempt to install any fenders, you will have a very bad day. Gene

Yes, I vented about a crappy part. I think everybody here knows that production has moved overseas the last twenty or so years, and quality has gone down hill. And I was frustrated. I figured my Mopar piers would feel my pain, and offer some ideas, and several did. I'm in the process of moving, and have my truck loaded with furniture when my rad gave way. My tools, including dremel, etc. are at my new place. I didn't know I needed to go into detail with all this. I just vented about a cheap obviously foreign made part that is advertised using words such as "precision", "direct fit", "high quality", etc. I guess I just hoped to have it at least mount up without modifications or having to go shopping for this and that. I don't expect it to last twenty years, but was hoping to mount it, fill up and be back on the road. And, I am not a punk kid,I am a grown man so I don't take to well to being talked down to. I'm sorry I vented along the way of asking for help. My wife doesn't want to hear about car stuff, especially with this new to me Power Wagon, and talking out loud is not very satisfying. Believe me, I've tried. I wish I had worded it differently as to not have annoyed the ones I clearly did. I try to limit my posts here for everyone's sake, but have been a little too active lately. Thanks.

Hate to say it, but you bought the cheapest freaking radiator you could find and whine because you're not resourceful enough to get it in? As said before, you have 10-15 minutes work and a trip to Autozone and you're done. Turn in your Man Card and take up knitting.

Trying to find one I could get quickly, because my truck is filled with furniture for my moving, and it was the only one I could find to fit my truck that I could get in a few days. I'd spend $500 a NOS one if it were available. In fact, I'm having the original re-cored and it's going to cost in the neighborhood of $500. I checked ebay, arizonaparts, national moparts, and several other sources for a NOS one before I bought this one.

I am using the helpful advice of others and tomorrow when I have a little time, going to try to swap fittings from old one, and if that doesn't work, try some of the other helpful suggestions. I just haven't had time yet. I'm taking the original to rad shop Monday even though it'll take a few weeks to have it back, I want that one in the truck in the near future.

I've been biting my tongue. Can someone please just close this thread? It's obviously not going anywhere.

If the lines are still too long you can put a curving bend in them to shorten them a little.

You know you just reminded me I have an ancient bender an elderly neighbor gave me years ago that belonged to his father! That might help. It's in the attic and I'm digging stuff out of attic anyhow because I'm moving. Thank you!

There no drop in radiators anymore,they are all fine china quality.They really don't care how they fit close enough.

Yeah, I guess I should have known but was hoping to get back on the road to get my furniture moved that I was right smack in the middle of moving. Then, down the road, when I had my beautiful factory radiator re-cored, I'd put it back in, along with the 7 blade clutch fan I scored on ebay (That's what was recommended by some helpful members on another thread). Yes, going to sand and point before installing

Right now it has a 5 blade fixed fan.

Not true, Glen Ray IS a drop in radiator. Though not sure they make one for a truck.

It's winter and you're posting on moparts...There's a bunch of grumpy old men on here that will take it out on you instead of their usual,miserable surroundings so don't take it personal...
You could post you've won a million dollars and the same group will complain they didn't win it and you suck for winning...

A picture might help with the cooler lines because the originals did not use a barbed fitting so I'm confused about why you're fooling with the ones they sent. The ones you need are on your old rad or the nearest parts store.

If the cooler lines have already been butchered to use hoses and clamps now is your chance to fix them right or just do what you have to do to make the connection. Hoses and clamps aren't a good idea on a Mopar because the cooler circuit can see enough peak pressure to blow them off.

If I was going to the trouble of installing a new rad and it cooled the truck when I was done, it would instantly graduate from temporary fix to permanent.

Kevin

Haha thanks for the laugh.

Yes, for sure, just the one month turn around because busy right now and the holidays. I did call.

I do have pics on my phone and will upload tomorrow. I've just been grabbing every bit of OT lately and there's been a bunch. The factory lines are good. I don't think they've been touched. It'll be clearer as you stated with pics.

Yippie, on the road again, as Willie Nelson would sing! Filled with some antifreeze and distilled water

Thanks to the few that let me off the hood for my lack of radiator knowledge and instead of knocking me from behind the safety of their computer, chimed in with useful advice.

Burdar: I don't know why (maybe because new rad had barbed fittings supplied) I never thought of swapping fittings from old radiator! I've always gotten my radiators re-cored or new ones that were direct fit. Bingo! Swapped fittings and on the road! Your simple advice caused me to take a second look and bingo. Thank you!!! And your suggestion of adding a cooler is going to happen down the road anyhow when I get my factory one re-cored and put that back in.

Stumpy: needed to put slight bend in one factory steel line and used my vintage bender. Very cool tool. Must be from 50's??

71birdJ68: I'm going to consider sending it off to Glen Ray instead of my local shop. The month turn around doesn't bother me now that I'm back on the road, and the more I read, the more I like the reputation. Thanks.

Barring any rain today I can get this furniture out of the back of the truck, and haul some more stuff to new house, which has a TWO car garage. Big improvement over the one car garage now. Here at old house I had truck in garage, Diplomat outside under Covercraft cover, and work car outside which I did at least jockey around to be in shade whenever possible. I already have the Dippy over at new house in garage.

Well, well well! Yes, I did miss your reference to Rockauto, sorry.
But, I did not miss your reference to fittings.

I don't doubt that you can make the holes line up in a minute with a rattail file. So that isn't worth discussing.

And, in the spirit of trying to help, seeing that the fittings mismatch was the major problem, I made a suggestion. I suggest you stop looking for what's wrong with me and others and the radiator, and think this through logically.

Take the supplied fittings and put them in your extra parts bin. They are clearly a one-size-fits-all solution to the fit problem. I suppose you could cut your steel lines off and use them, then when you got the other radiator lined up, reuse the originals and connect the cut off originals with short lengths of rubber hose. But I agree, that isn't good enough.

Here's what I saw from the picture: The fittings screwed into the openings in the radiator using what look like 1/4"NPT male ends. So, the fitting to adapt your truck lines to the radiator will have a 1/4" NPT male end.
Now we have to connect the fitting to the transmission cooling lines. I believe the transmission cooling lines end in an inverted flare fitting, like a fuel line or brake line. If my guess is correct, the fittings on the end of your transmission cooler lines are male inverted flare. So the adapter you need has a female inverted flare fitting on the side away from the transmission.

You end up with a fitting that looks like the two that I showed you in my last post. Put some pipe dope on the external threads, turn into the radiator "bung", and tighten. Bring the metal transmission cooler line to the fitting, thread the male part into the connector, and tighten.
Repeat for the other transmission cooler line.

Using the fitting pictured below, the right threaded end threads into the radiator. The oil cooler line fitting threads into the left side of the fitting in the picture.

Problem solved.

Go and do likewise.

They probably gave you the barbed fittings because 90% of the time those cooling lines aren't coming out, because of rust. So they get cut and spliced with a piece of rubber hose. That's good that yours came out ok.

Sorry dogdays, no time to read your posts.

Cuda340, yes I was worried about them not coming out, but they had enough trans fluid around them soaking on them since I pulled it out days ago, so that a socket wrench, and a lot of muscle and they broke loose. But yeah, that's probably why.

See how much room I had to work in my single car garage, and to move around the sides! This pic taken from the side in which I left the most clearance.

Back it in with mirrors folded in was a real PITA! Can't wait to get to new place where working on my cars will be a joy! Ten more days!