a body disc brake conversion .... caliper hitting swaybar

just need to know part number for brake hose when mounting calipers to rear of rotor

Would make a world of difference if you tell people what calipers your using.
Pin Type, or slider type calipers.

Have your parts house pull one for a 78 volare. For aesthetics cut off half of the crimped on metal bracket that is on the hose about halfway along its length is it ain't needed for an A body app.

slider

i think you might want '80 volare calipers if you mount to the rear, the bleed valve is in a different location than on the front mount calipers.
the 78 volare calipers that were previously mentioned might be the same, i look at pics on rock auto for different apps.

supposedly 69 camaro brake hoses work well for the rear mount...

It is more complicated than that. What you really want are calipers that are designed to be rear hung. They'll have the bleeder mounted at the top and the hose will come out on the bottom. When I used to do these brake swaps I never found an off the shelf hose that worked so I just braided hoses with the right ends. DoctorDiff might have a hose these days.

RR has it right, but there is a bracket on the hose you need to pull off.

Later disc brakes have the caliper mounted forward of the wheel. That is why the later sway bar tabs and sway bar had a different location on the LCA's to clear caliper location. Your bleeder has to be located at the top to bleed correctly, just remember that. I see people mount them to the rear of the wheel and bleeder at the bottom and then wonder why they do not work correctly?

Its is kinda funny that in most of all articles that I researched everyone says use parts from 1973-1976 a body for my 1969 a body disc brake conversion. That includes upper control arms and spindles - they only mention the sway bar issue in passing and say almost nothing about the lower control arm bolt hitting the sway bar bracket. After buying the parts and installing the 1973-1976 calipers on the front do I see this is not going to work. The moparts web site it says


http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/pages/abody.html

12. Sway Bars, this will not interfere with either the factory or aftermarket SWAY BARS, just weld on the tabs, for the Donor Car, or the brackets, that came with the aftermarket kit. (Yes, they do interfere because of the factory weld location on the lower control arm)

13. It is NOT adviseable to switch the Caliper from front to rear, the Chrysler engineers, found it best to place the caliper in the rear of the the spindel, to aid in heat transfer, and this also helps keep the road grime from entering the piston. (Why not, many have with no problems, if not changing from from to rear how will it clear without changing out the k frame and sway bar)

Yeah, that article has a lot of issues, including being wrong about a number of things. It should either be revamped and corrected or removed.

The pic below is an "A" body disk conversion on a '64 "B" body. These are all mid 70's "A" body parts with the exception of the upper and lower control arms which are not required to be changed for the 62-65 "B" body conversion.

The spindles and caliper adapters are from a '75 Dart and the calipers are from a '76 Dart. These are slider calipers. The rotors are from a '77 Dodge Monaco and are 11.75" diameter.

There are no, nada, zero issues moving the calipers to the rear. At least this is true for the "B" body conversion and I suspect it will also apply to the "A" body conversion as well. All that's needed is to swap the spindles side to side. Swapping the spindles and moving the calipers to the rear is a VERY common mod when doing this conversion on 62-65 "B" body cars if they are equipped with a front sway bar. I do know that Dr.Diff has the proper hoses for the "B" body conversion and he probably has the correct hoses for the "A" body conversion as well.

I covered the topic with a lot of pictures and explanations in my B body book. The article that you linked to is full of errors.

moparts.com is the premier site for all Mopar information. I have been using this site for a ton of years. If the linked information is incorrect it should be removed or upgraded.

Yes we're the best.

A lot of misinformation is posted on Moparts. I see wrong info posted almost every time I visit. People who visit the board on a regular basis usually figure out how to separate the wheat from the chaff but it is more of a challenge for the beginners.

The biggest problem I see is that somebody does something once and they think that is the way to do it. Any engineer will tell you that a data sample of one isn't very robust. There are lots of things you can do on a car that work okay for a short period of time but would be complete disaster if the factory installed it on a million cars.

A post is one thing but this misinformation is a moparts tech
article.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/pages/abody.html

Needs to be updated or removed.

Then make it so

All I can say is mine are mounted on the front with a sway bar. 69 Barracuda with 73-76 sliders,upper arms,spindles,etc. I welded the tabs on the lower arms and bolted on a stock sway bar(factory big block k-frame). I later switched to a Hellwig bar and simply shortened the end links. It's been together for years without an issue

I ain't never done this so I am just thinking out loud but on a caliper that wont bleed out could you take it off & block the piston & hold it in your hands (& bleed it) as a helper works the pedal. On fitment the bleeder doesn't have to be exactly at 12 O'clock but where the passage from it meets the bore, that needs to be at or very near 12 O'clock & on a difficult one pumping the pedal several times then with good timing you open the bleeder as he is pushing the pedal down for the 4th stroke helps agitate the fluid & get bubbles out of there.

I've never run that exact combo before but I know that other A body guys say all they need to do is shorten the link and the front hung caliper clears. On my B body car that trick wouldn't work since the caliper hit the bracket on the LCA.