Having the common tranny issues with 46re, need guidance

I just bought a 2001 SLT 2WD 5.9 Durango for cheap cheap because it is experiencing tranny issues and CTM electrical problems that the PO didnt want to deal with.

I know this issue Im having is very common on these 46re Durangos/Rams/Dakotas, so I could use some guidance in solving it, thank you in advance!

My particular problem is the tranny only goes into 3rd when put in D. I believe it's called limp mode. You can manually shift down to 2nd, but no matter what you do it will not go into 1st or 4th, period. If you put it into drive, it goes straight to 3rd and stays there, no downshift to 2nd when you floor it. You can manually put the lever down into 2nd, and it will go into 2nd, and 2nd is where it will stay no matter what. You can put it back into D and it goes to 3rd. That is all you can do for forward gears. Reverse works fine.

I have read numerous posts about the governor/transducer, OD solenoid, output speed sensor, corroded connections, bad grounds, and frayed/shorted wires etc etc. I just dont know where to begin.

This Durango is very nice, smooth running 360, good interior, and I bought it for next to nothing so I dont mind putting some $ into the trans to make it trouble-free and reliable. Is there a standard combination of new solenoids/connectors/relays/harnesses/wires that can be put in all at once to eliminate all the common problems at once?


Here are the codes I pulled today:

P0753 A/T 3-4 Solenoid/Transmission Relay Circuit Failure

P0743 A/T Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure

P0720 A/T Output Speed Sensor - Low output Above 15 MPH

P1764 A/T Governor Pressure Sensor Signal Too Low

P1765 A/T Transmission Relay Circuit Malfunction


Where should I start?

hi

1 erase codes and drive !

2 if codes reapear pull pan and look at fluid condition

adjust bands new filter see how much dirt is on magnet ?

may need solinoid kit replaced if trany is fairly clean

lots of dirt means most likely needs rebuilt !

A good close look at the wiring harness would be a start. I'd toss in a known good tcm relay too.

Do you have a scanner that can read data or just codes?

Good advice. I'm buying a Ram Van (2001) today with same issue. Owner said scan showed solenoid problems. Trans fluid smells burnt and is black so I'm going to drop the pan, adjust bands and change fluid-filter, got my fingers crossed this works.

Just codes. There's the wiring harness on the outside, is there also one on the inside behind the valve body?

Circuit failures are just that - electrical faults. They may cause a trans failure but not the other way around. There is a main harness on the outside on RE and a harness inside that handles governor pressure, OD and lockup. On the RH there is almost the same internal harness for OD and lockup but the governor is like the old 727, no governor solenoid or transducer. Dropping the pan and seeing burnt fluid and expecting to resurrect the unit by adjusting the bands and changing the fluid and filter is expecting a lot. You may get lucky - for a short while.

If it's going into limp mode that is 2nd gear not third. If it feels like it's dropping a gear when you shift it lower is because it's probably binding up between gears. Not good! If there is a fair amount of junk in the pan don't waist your money on electronics, rebuild it and then put new electronics in it.

*Edit* IGNORE THIS FOR THE TIME BEING^^^^^^^^^^^^^^We'll overhaul it when it's ready to be overhauled.




Adam, find anything with a wire connected to the trans and unplug, blow out with a can of electrical cleaner and plug 'em all back in again. Unhook the battery for an hour and connect it back up and go for a drive.

What's the speedo needle doing? Is it bouncing/taking awhile to register, or is it normal?

Start with the easy stuff first, I wanna know what that output speed sensor code is doing on there.............

RWD RE units default to third gear. 41TE and 42LE default to second gear.

I know it's a completely different manufacturer but on my 4L80E when it went into limp home mode it needed a new speed sensor. The factory service manual had a troubleshooting chart and it led me right to the problem. It was specific enough that it pointed out which one needed to be replaced. Steps to repair:
1. buy replacement
2. crawl under the vehicle
3. unplug electrical connector
4. remove hold down bolt
5. pull sensor
6. replace sensor with new
7. replace hold down bolt
8. connect new sensor
9. crawl out from under the vehicle

I hope your fix is similar.

R.

Or you can do like I did on my '00 Durango 5.9 and convert it to a 5 spd.


Tim

Definitely a better way to go than to rebuild that POS Dodge automatic.

One day, (it'll take a Brain Surgeon) I hope someone will figure a way to run a 545rfe behind a Magnum.

By the way, what did you use for a flywheel on the 5.9 to do the swap?

You can run the NAG1 too, contact Sound German Automotive for the stand alone controller.

I would check the 3-4 accumulator spring after everything else as well. If you have the pan and filter down, you are almost there. 5 bolts I believe hold a small plate under the spring. These springs break and cause shifting problems. They also cause snap ring breakage in the clutch pack drums. If it is broken, you can get the diesel version.

This is news to me.

Could the Sound German Automotive
stand alone controller
also be used on an earlier OBD-I 1995 vehicle
like to replace a 46RH
with a WA580 auto trans?

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/NAG1-WA580.html

Replacing a
46RH with 3.21 ratio diff
With a WA580 with 2.76 diff
certainly seems to be an upgrade
Since torque capacity is 420+ ft-lbs
First gear crawl speed would also be superior.

RockAuto- '01 1500 5.9 flywheel, HD clutch assy. that was optional for 1500 and '01 Dakota V6 donor truck, new Dakota clutch hydraulics.



Tim

360, Yes, you can use the NAG1 even behind a LA small block. Your old trans set up would not be used, Sound German would be able to tell you what you need better than I could. I just talked to them before about putting behind my 71 318. I went with a 42RH instead as it was a lot cheaper at the time. The controller is a little pricey (about 1200) but if you get the trans cheap enough it may be worth it compared to a complete rebuild of a 46RH. Plus the gearing is a huge improvement. You are exactly right about the gearing. Send them an email and they will get the info you need.

There is a whole LOT more to it than just a controller. Basicly a total rehab of the car to fit, then the problem of the output flange, speed censers, converter options, the list goes on and on. There are better options out there.

I was having similar problems with my 47RE and replaced the governor solenoid, sensor, accumulator spring and speed output sensor in the trans and all fixed now. Pretty easy job but you have to drop the pan. Here is a link to the kit for the 46RE. I also added a drain plug to the pan in case I ever need to drop the pan again.

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/46regovernorpressureservicekit2000up.aspx

Also here is a nice video on the procedure to replace the tranny parts.

https://www.facebook.com/cascadetransmissionparts/videos/1039161212861907/

I had a moment today to recheck fluid, connections and battery. I am getting a filter and gasket and will remove pan when i get it.

I unhooked the battery for about 20 minutes and unhooked both connectors and cleaned the connectors and the battery terminals really well. I noticed my battery is 6 years old so I probably should replace that.

I check the tranny fluid through the dipstick tube again and it was clean and didn't smell bad. who knows the PO may have change the fluid before he sold it.

In the relay box under the hood I noticed that my trans relay has five prongs but it sits in a but it sits in a 4 terminal base, could i possibly have wrong relay?

I unhooked the connectors from the trans and cleaned them out and removed about 3 in of sheathing to see if any of the wires were frayed. They were all intact.

when I reconnected everything and the battery I started the Durango and within seconds the check engine light came back on

since I have to drop the pan anyways I think I'll just get all the parts I may need and if the fluid doesn't have a bunch of chunks in it I'll just go ahead and install the parts

was there any parts underneath the valve body that should be replaced that don't come in this kit?

That sucks Adam, but all it cost you is your time. Always do the free stuff first.

I'm surprised that check engine light came on so quick, did you even put it in gear or try to drive it? Is there any change in the code list?

The light coming on immediately indicate an electronic problem. What codes came back?

All the parts in that kit can be replaced without removing the valve body. You just need to drop the pan. I believe there some overdrive solenoids that require you to remove the valve body. I didn't replace these as they are not as common a failure item in these transmissions. I'd just do the easy stuff first and install a drain plug in your pan in case you need to drop the pan again.

Hate to but n but after each time I start the engine the overdrive off light is on, push the button light goes off, what's up?

Ok sorry for delay, I rechecked the codes and they are all still there, plus a P0441 EVAP Purge Flow Monitor Fault

P0753 A/T 3-4 Solenoid/Transmission Relay Circuit Failure

P0743 A/T Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure

P0720 A/T Output Speed Sensor - Low output Above 15 MPH

P1764 A/T Governor Pressure Sensor Signal Too Low

P1765 A/T Transmission Relay Circuit Malfunction

It still kinda bothers me that my trans relay has 5 prongs but sits in a 4 terminal slot, so basically the middle prong doesnt connect to anything. Could this be the wrong relay?

20171130_132650 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr

20171130_132708 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr

20171130_132728 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr




And here is a shot of the stamped code on the driver side.

20171130_134528 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr

I think Im going to order the complete solenoid kit from cascade, that way when I drop the pan, if there's no mess, Ill install it, if there is a mess, I send it back and look at rebuild options. I know this is not the most graceful way to handle the problems, but these parts in the kit are the culprit in so many of the problems with the RE transmissions that Im willing to bet the kit solves my issues.

Sounds like a plan, I've read into solonoid pack replacement but so far have not had to do it on my RE.

When you get it drained, take out the output speed sensor and clean the tip. If I remember right it's a small magnet and bits of metal will get to it. That may be why you are getting that code.

Don't take it out before you drain it........or you'll get a bath. Damhik.

Ok I ordered the kit, it arrived, I unhooked the negative battery cable and dropped the pan. Fluid was clean and the magnet had barely any gunk on it.

I installed the 46RE Governor Pressure Service Kit 2000 Up from cascade.This included the governor (governor pressure transducer), the shift solenoid (governor pressure solenoid), the gasket for the housing of those 2 units, the 3-4 accumulator spring, the tail shaft speed sensor, the new filter and the new pan gasket. Filled it with atf+4.

I also bought a mid grade code reader.

I hooked up the battery and fired it up. Within 10 seconds or so, the check engine light came back on. I cussed and got in and took it for a ride. Again, when put in drive it starts out super slow and I figure this either means it’s starting out in third or something is wrong with the torque converter . But before I could only manually down shift to second and it would never going to first and also overdrive was not working.

This time again when put in drive it started out really slow just like before But this time I could manually shifted into every gear first second and third but I didn’t get it going fast enough to see if it went into Over Drive. When put in the first it kind of feels like it doesn’t catch until you give it a fair amount of throttle but nonetheless it went in the first and second and third manually.

First read of codes: P0743 TCC solenoid circuit, P0753 1-2/4-5 Solenoid circuit, P1764 governor pressure sensor low, P1765 1. Switched battery failure 2. Trans power relay circuit

I cleared the codes and turned it back on, again the check engine light came on in about 10 seconds and I took it for a drive. It seem to drive a little bit better.

Second read of codes: P0743 TCC solenoid circuit, P1764 governor pressure sensor low, P1765 1. Switched battery failure 2. Trans power relay circuit


With one of the codes disappeared, I switched out the trans relay with another relay and no change. I’m starting to think I have a short somewhere. I have heard of the downstream O2 sensor Circuit causing short problems as it runs in the same harness as the transmission wiring. Or maybe my TCC solenoid is shot and I should’ve bought the full kit that included that!!!

What do you guys think? What should my next movie?

I think the next move is:

1. Manually shift it, drive for a bit, get some miles on that fluid, let your new filter catch what it can and do it's job. You say you have'nt been in 4th yet: make an excuse to go for a road trip. Your tc locks in 4th (and will in 3rd if you press the "overdrive off" button) and needs to get run in top gear for some miles. Give us an update.

2. Change the tcc solonoid-I really think this is the problem now. I think that's why it's dragging it's ass when you take off: t/c not unlocking, solonoid burnt.

3. New torque convertor.

4. There's a transmission in Portland with 132,000 miles for $830.00.

Like I stated earlier - you have circuit failure codes, fluid and temperature has nothing to do with these codes.
Look the harness over real good for chaffing or damage. From the controller down to the trans.
Carefully pull the connectors loose and clean and inspect for corrosion, both the female and male ends.
Switched battery failure stands out like a sore thumb.
It's dragging because you are in default third gear. If you can pull it in to low and it accelerates like it normally would that confirms default/third gear start.
Converter has nothing to do with your problems at this point.
And yes the O2 circuit can wreak havoc on trans controls due to the sharing of the harness at the splice.

Where/what is the ‘controller’?


Is it a bad o2 sensor or bad o2 sensor circuit that causes the problems?

PCM - powertain control module. Controls the engine and trans and receives inputs from many sensors, like the O2 sensor, RWAL sensor etc. I would have to find my manual to help you further but I would work backward/upward.

Start at the trans external connector (round connector - enters the trans on driver side behind shift linkage). Be careful taking all these connectors apart and putting them together as some of them have very small pins and are easily bent.

Work your way up. PM me if you hit a road block and I can try to send you some screen shots of a schematic.

I know the connector you are talking about, I’ll start there. I know where the PCM is I just have never heard it called a controller so that’s why I asked. But it is obvious someone has cut the pink wire out of the middle connector of the PCM and At the relay box and jumped it. I don’t know if that has anything to do with the transmission but I’ll find out as I trace these wires

The plot thickens.

Still looking for my manual - I may have loaned it out.

Yeah.

You failed to mention this.

Get this issue looked after first.

I just went through every wire underneath near the transmission from the O2 sensor rear to the neutral safety switch plug to the circular plug above the shift linkage.
I could not find any broken corroded or worn out wires stripped back all of the sheath and wrapping on everything all the way up to the side of the bell housing where I could not reach any further.

The main circular trans plug is in good shape but the connector it plugs into that’s coming out of the trance has some snapped plastic but as far as I could feel the pins were all intact and straight so they plugged together just fine.

The pink wire that runs between the PCM and the relay box that’s been Cut both ends and jumped is something I just noticed actually.

Something that I didn’t even think to mention though because it did not show up on the codes and I thought it was just a fluke, Is that the ABS and brake warning lights on the dash are always on. Once in a while they won’t be on when I turn the engine on but 95% of the time they are on.

While researching my codes and issues I came across the thread where someone was talking about replacement PCM’s causing the ABS and brake light to come on unless they’ve been flashed with the vehicles Vin number. So it looks possible that the previous owner had some PCM troubles and jumped that pink wire for some reason and probably switched out the PCM At some point as well

It's messy but you should drop the pan and check source wires inside the trans against their matching wire in the top connector - I have seen enough carnage on the outside and inside harnesses. If I recall the main power source to run all the internals is the center line in this connector - if the voltage is low there then it's all low.

These may help. My memory is worse than I thought - the power up pin is not the center pin. First thing to do is make sure you have power in to the trans and a good ground. If power is low something is dragging it down - or a bad ground ?

That's your rear wheel abs sensor at the top of the diff housing. Replace it......with a Mopar one, not aftermarket junk.

Adam, you need to tell us everything, is there anything else or is this it?

Get that pink wire fixed, do the abs sensor and go for a drive.

I had the exact thing happen on a 97 Dakota 4x4. I replaced shift solenoids, changed fluid and filter, changed speed sensors, one in trans and one on rear. I finally had enough, took it to a trans shop and within 2 hours they found a broken wire.

Grizzly, trans man, I’ll re-outline my situation and not leave anything out this time. I bought a 2001 2WD 5.9 SLT for very cheap because it had transmission issues and CTM issue . The CTM and the transmission are separate issues.

The headlights the interior & dash lights flickered and unison about 10 to 12 minutes after the truck was started, the door locks stop working as well and the alarm would go off randomly when I would open the driver door. I did a lot of troubleshooting and researching, and my problem Turned out to be a very very common problem, all those circuits run through the ‘central timing module’ CTM (or ‘body control module’ BCM As Subaru calls it apparently). I pulled mine out of the drivers side kick panel, looked up the part number on eBay, and bought a used one for $100. Installed the new CTM and problem solved.


When you get in the Durango and turn it on, the check engine light as well as the ABS light and the brake light on the dash Illuminate immediately. From a full stop the Durango, in D, starts out gutless and weak and feels like it’s starting out in 3rd gear. It stays in 3rd and wont shift or kick down into 2nd or 1st, and doesn’t go into Overdrive either. The ‘OD Off’ button and light function normally but the button doesn’t change anything. You can move the shift lever into 2 and It feels like the transmission manually shifts into 2nd because you get a lot more power instantly. Moving the shift lever into 1 doesn’t do anything, it wouldn’t go into 1st gear ever. So basically when put into D, it went straight into what feels like 3rd Gear, and it stays there never downshifting or going into overdrive.

It threw out a variety of transmission codes as you can see from looking through my post and they weren’t always the same and sometimes changed when the battery cable was removed or when I manually erase the codes with my code reader. There were about six total codes that it would cycle through, like it could make up its mind which problems it had. . The codes were P1765 P1764 P0720 P0743 P0753 And once a random eve app purge canister code P0441.

I switched the trans relay to a known good one with no change. I bought a new battery because the original was too old anyways, no change. I noticed that the center connector on the PCM Had a pink wire that had been cut and jumped with a single wire that went across the engine bay and over to the relay/fuse box where the pink wire there had been cut and the wire attached to the jumper. I have no idea what that is for yet.

I peeled back the sheathing and tape on every wire connector on the trans and everywhere else in that area including the O2 sensors and I peeled them back as far up the side of the transmission as I could squeeze my hands. There were no Frayed or broken wires that I could find. The circular connector on the trans had snapped some plastic on the connector on the transom had. But there were no missing or bent prongs I could feel.

I ordered The governor pressure service kit for 2000 and up from Cascade transmission parts and bought plenty of new Castrol ATF+4 .I Disconnected the battery, then dropped the pan and the fluid was in great condition and there was barely any grime in the pan or on the magnet. I installed the new parts and gaskets and filled it back up with new tranny fluid and reconnected the battery. Within 10 seconds of starting the truck the check engine light came back on. Again the codes come back and sometimes if deleted it changes which codes it wants to give me but still draws from the same six codes. Actually there are two that remain on every time and those are P1765 and P0743. There was no change in drivability except now I can manually shift between all three gears .

So now I’m on the hunt for broken or shorted wires and trying to trace the wires from the transmission connector back up to the relay‘s and PCM. I am also placing my PCM as suspect Due to the pink wire being hacked, and the ABS and brake warning light that are always on which I have read are Signs of a PCM replacement that wasn’t flashed properly with the vin. I have also ordered a new TCC/OD solenoid group with harness for 2000 and up from Cascade. That may fix or help but even if it doesn’t I didn’t mind purchasing it because the Durango so cheap to begin with and it gives me a little peace of mind knowing that once I Install these parts it will pretty much rule out those components as the culprits.

Brother I am right where you were at and I am also on the hunt for shorted or broken wires

If the codes pop up with key on, engine off (before starting the engine in other words) then you have an electrical issue for sure.

My suggestion is to pull items off the main harness one at a time - key on and see if one of those items removed "fixes" your problem for the time being.

Example - pull each O2 connector (upstream and down stream - left and right if equipped) from the main harness and key on, engine off.

Try this for the ABS or RWAL sensor, etc.

When you get your new harness assembly for inside the trans you can simply connect it to the plug that enters the trans and ground the OD & lockup solenoid assembly body ( the part that bolts to the side of the valve body) making sure all your sensors are plugged in to this new harness assembly. Key on, engine off. If fixed something is bad in the old internal harness assembly. I PM'd you -

I installed the new TCC sol unit. Couldn’t find any degradation of the wires but when I had my sister step on the brake after we started it to shift the trans through the gears a few times , She kept tell me it was being weird I could hear clicks from the shift lever and when she did that the truck would die down then RPM back up. I went to check it out And got in the Durango there was no light indicated on any of the gears and the OD off light was on. I went to go shift it and it was only shift in a funny way about 1 1/2 inches each way. I turned off. I think I messed up the geometry of the shift selector when I reinstalled it. I’m pretty sure wasn’t a electrical issue because the shifter felt funny and only went to certain Distance each way

I know what I did. I broke the little plastic arm that the neutral safety switch rides on. Anyone know how to remove bypass? I think I have to just remove the unit plugged the hole and press down the switch. I have to think of something until I get a new plastic piece

Alright, I got the new plastic piece that the neutral safety switch rides on. Luckily I was able to install it without having to drop the valve body again! FYI, the piece is called the Neutral Safety Backup Insulator, SONNAX part # 2222907K. I was able to quickly (and gently) drill out the rivet holding in the remaining broken insulator and po it off. I cleaned the metal arm very well, scratched it up with some sandpaper, cleaned again with brakleen, dried it and then used a little 2 part plastic epoxy on the new insulator and popped it onto the metal arm. This was a little tricky due to the angle, but it worked. The plastic insulator is shaped so that it clips down onto the arm, and the epoxy was just extra protection. I let it cure overnight, way way longer than directed. It worked perfectly. I cleaned the pan spotless and this time I just used right stuff RTV with no gasket, torqued to 6 ftlbs, then to 12 ftlbs. No leaks whatsoever.

So, here is a picture of the connector of the old TCC solenoid pack. Some of the prongs are slightly bent and a large portion of the connector was broken.


IMG_0170 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr

The rest of the unit was in decent shape, no broken or frayed wires


IMG_0171 by Richard Bailey, on Flickr

So, with every electrical component inside the trans plus the output shaft speed sensor ALL BRAND NEW, I hooked the battery back up and started the durango.


Within seconds the check engine light was back on and all the same codes still there.


So, I will now begin my hunt for shorted wires/faulty components/loose connections outside the trasmission.

I'll start by unplugging components that could be suspect, like the O2 sensors, and then I'll trace my wires using the diagrams, and also check my pcm. The pink wire that was cut at the pcm and relay box and jumped to one another is really bothering me, I need to know what that wire goes to and why someone wouldve cut it, and bypassed the harness with a jumper.

I am starting to think it is possible this PCM is the original and was going bad so measures were taken to bypass something, or this is a replacement PCM that was not the right part number therefore not for my Durango and it is causing problems, or possibly it is the correct replacement, just faulty itself. IDK, just some possibilities that crossed my mind

See my post above Adam, put the pink wire back to the way it is supposed to be and replace the rear-wheel abs sensor.

Using this aftermarket junk is just making the problem worse. Try to source your parts from an autowrecker if you are looking to save a buck. Myself and others on this site have had numerous issues with aftermarket electrical components.

It's not the same as the old 12 volt days. This new stuff is in milivolts and the aftermarket stuff is too far out of spec to meet the factory requirments.

Grizzly I will do that.

I looked over the wiring diagrams and it looks like the pink wire is for the transmission Relay control