Best PCV valve?

Just wondering if members have found a better than stock type PCV valve. I only have about 10in of vacuum at idle due to a healthy cam so I thought I'd ask.

there is an adjustable PVC valve made that has very good reviews, but i can't remember the name. it's not cheap, as it's made of machined aluminum. i believe it retails for around $89. perhaps others can refresh my foggy memory on this.

www.mewagner.com

from a prior thread: Mopar #4343581 or Fram FV 191 are the ones to get & have a lower flow (the common complaint) & the Fram has a larger base.

Thanks to all

The ME Wagner adjustable valve will solve your problems if you are willing to spend the money for it and follow the instructions. You can adjust the valve so it flows what you need. Those valves are the best thing for street cars with big cams but not very many people seem to know about them.

I just ordered one of these yesterday. Andrew

It's here.... it's here. Thanks again

I just installed one in my car last Sunday! With a bit of tweaking it works great, money well spent in my mind, wish I did this a couple years ago.

We should try and get a group buy going. Their website says that they give a 25% discount for group buys.

I would be interested. I think the web site says you need 8 people to qualify for a group by.

Thx

Steve

Count me in, I need one for my pickup

I'm in for 2..

I'm interested in one. How does the group buy work out Edit Read the info @ the Website, that looks good.

Who should contact them?

I bought one of these early in the spring...what a great setup...expensive, but this is one part that you probably won't regret caughing up the $$$ for!

I'm in for one lets figure this out

Gus

Looks like we have 7 orders so far and just need one more to make it happen. Someone just needs to step up and call Mewagner and set it up, collect purchase commitments details and send them in. Then Mewagner will ship the part (for free) when they receive payment. Looks like they prefer Paypal and will send each person an invoice, but they will accept credit cards directly also.

Group buy details are here http://mewagner.com/?page_id=1927

thanks,

Steve

I'm off work tomorrow so I will give them a call to see exactly the easiest way to set this up.
Gus

I used to get Columbus day off also but not anymore. Thanks for stepping up Gus.

Steve

I used to get Columbus day off also but not anymore. Thanks for stepping up Gus.

Steve

Finding the grommet is fun The PCV is 3/4 where it enters the valve cover. I ordered (am awaiting) a grommet online that is 3/4" ID, and 1" OD. Since I have aluminum valve covers Iliked this one as it appears deeper and I will trim the lower neck if I need to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-PCV...2-/111669199849

I just have to burn some vacation time, use it or loose it at the car dealership so I'm finishing up a 69 Vette for my mother in law to sell.

Gus

I used a Moroso grommet with a built in oil baffle. Here is what it looks like mounted in my valve cover.

Got a P/N ?

EDIT MOR-68772 ?

OK what the hell. Count me in for two (2). We REALLY need to make this happen, so who's en pointe?

(btw Dorman PN 42324 is good for sheetmetal VCs)

I'm in for one, thanks

Joe

i'll take 2 ! where do i send the money ?

I think fourgearsavoy/Gus is going to call M/EWagner today and set up the group by. Good news, we have enough people to qualify now (needed 8). I would say just monitor this post for next steps from Gus.

Count me in. I've been looking at the PCV Value for some time. I'll find a use for it on one of my motors. PM me with payment details.

In for 1.

Well I sent our group buy request to M/E Wagner per the instructions. Our next step will be to gather member information via PM's and they will probably contact me later today via E-mail

As soon as I get confirmation from them I will post it up here.
Thank all of you for this because 25% is a very good discount

I look forward to tuning this thing in and improving all my engines performance.
Gus

I'll be No. 8

Could get added to this group buy? Thanks!

Sorry for the typo. could I get added for 1? Thanks for putting this together!

Well I just got confirmation so they want me to E-mail the info of ALL the members who want one.
So if you guys will shoot me a PM with the info they asked for on the "group buy" link listed in a post above we can get this started. They also told me they would send each member an invoice so you can arrange payment and shipping info.
So lets get all the PM's to me so I can get the ball in motion.
I will be monitoring this page til about 11:00 to get all the information loaded into a draft.
Gus

Awesome, thank Gus!

Here is the information we all need to PM Gus:
1. Customer name
2. Email address
3. Shipping address
4. Items and quantities desired

Part number for #4 is DF-17

Steve

You da man!

The Dorman PN I provided is also for a Ford application (Ranger/Aerostar)

Thanks Gus, I'm in for one.

Make sure you get me the information soon I have 5 confirmations including myself. I would really like to get this done before the weather turns bad. We have until the end of the month to get everyone in on this deal but I would sure like to get the order in before the weekend while we still have some good weather left

Gus

Well guys we have more than enough to make the order but if it's OK I'm gonna wait until I get home tomorrow to see if anyone else want's in on this deal.

Gus

It's fine by me.

pm sent gus.

Huge thanks to Moparx for answering my original question (with this part), and now the masses responded with a purchase that's good stuff

Don't forget to source a grommet that will work in your application guys

Just to share a thought, I gutted a parts store PCV valve and used a standard grommet, then ran the parts store PCV to an oil/vapor separator before going to the remotely mounted MEWagner valve.

thanks davenc, I have been thinking about the best way to setup the pcv system. I was thinking the pcv valve would go in the VC and connect to a vacuum source on the carb base. Then on the other VC I would run AN hose directly to a catch can with a breather on top. I'd love to get some advice on how others have done this, pics would be great too.

Thanks,

Steve

As mentioned, I run a gutted parts store PCV on the drivers valve cover to a vapor/oil separator mounted on the drivers side of the motor above the oil filter (BB), then from the separator to the MEMagner valve at the back of the motor (cheaply mounted on a bracket bolted to the valley pan retainer at the moment) then to the PCV port on the carb.

This keeps oil from potentially gumming up the MEMagner valve over time. The downside is that I had to buy the MEMagner inline adaptor for some extra $ to make the plumbing work.

There is a breather on the passenger side VC.

I understand now. I was thinking a baffle in the VC would help prevent the valve getting gummed up. This does explain why they have the inline valve setup in the first place.

Here are some pics of my setup. My first goal was to make it functional and then tune. The to-do list has an item to make the install nicer, particularly mounting of the ME valve.

OK guys this thing really took off and I got an E-mail from the company and she said if it would be easier if each member could contact her individually.
Here is the E-mail:
Thank you for your information regarding the Group Buy. If it is easier for
you, please have the members who are interested in participating send me
their information just like you did. When I get 8 names, I will then send
out the invoices through PayPal. Please call if you have any further
questions.

Barbara Wagner

Customer Service
M/E Wagner Performance Products
barbara.wagner@mewagner.com
www.mewagner.com
570-899-4544

Just mention that you are with the Moparts group buy and the discount will be applied to your order.
I'm kinda overwhelmed I thought it would be hard to get 8 orders now we have twice as many.

Thanks
Gus

I just got the e-mail off Thanks again Gus for getting the ball rolling

sent of my e-mail as well gus ! THANK YOU for getting this deal set up !

Sent mine off last night. Thanks again Gus, for stepping up and getting this going!

Email sent, I am in for one

Thanks

My order is in for two, thanks for the leg work Gus

Joe

P.S. as an aside I called Fram tech support to see if they had any specs on the PCVs that some said are better for our application, i.e. low idle vacuum, He knew some were for some GM and Ford hi-perf engines but could not come up with any real numbers, so I opted for the adjustable one rather than guess.

Joe

I'm glad the group buy deal is working, I just received my invoice and I cant wait to get my valve. Since my carb doesn't have a port for vacuum and they don't recommend using an intake runner source I will need to drill my plenum. I was going to use the booster port on my Performer RPM intake but I guess that wont work so I'm going to pull the intake and find a good spot to drill and tap for a source.
Does anyone else have this situation?

Gus

I'm running one on my 99 Dakota. I started out with clear tubing and saw oil going into the plenum. I fine tuned the idle and cleared that up. There was oil weeping from the grommet around the vent elbow that would not adjust out.
I replaced that elbow with the gold colored vent cap ( the 70s style) and the weeping was cured.
I found later the original elbow was 50% blocked with casting flash.
I could not believe how well the idle and driveability improved.

My center carb has a port below the throttle blade I can use, but the original PCV was connected to a port under the rear carb in the intake.

I'll have to look at the schematic to see if my memory is correct.

I would imagine the central port might be the one to use when calibrating
the new PCV.

I'll try both to see if there's a difference when I get ours.

Joe

Well, I was wrong again!! PCV tube goes to center carb!
Rear fitting in intake must be for power brakes??

I am curious how much that valve cost ? Myself I have been using a stock 318 PCV valve on my eng for about 2 years now and its working good for me. Ron

I think they are $127 + shipping normally, $97 with free shipping with the group by discount. Still pretty expensive considering what a normal pcv valve cost. I hope its worth the money. Lots of good feedback on this valve.

Steve

Wow I did not think they were that much !! I am glad the stock PCV valve I use works fine with my combo. Thanks , Ron

Email sent. Thanks again Gus.

I just bought one last week. My engine builder was somewhat skeptical, but it is going on my new motor. Andrew

I think I might just get a new billet base place with the ports in it or should I sacrifice an inch of air filter and put a spacer under the carb with a port in it. I'm running a 4" drop base filter now, or maybe just whack a hole in the hood and put the Max Wedge scoop on that I've had for a few years

Gus

Gus I will say because the Max Wedge scoop dips in the middle it dont give much more room as you can see. Ron

So i know how a pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) valve works in theory:
limited flow at high vacuum and greater flow as the throttle butterflys more fully open.

I know that as the rings and bores wear blowby gas increases and the pcv may need to changed to a higher flow device. I know that Ford makes a higher flow pcv valve for high mileage v8s.

I have read that somehow the 1994-1995 iron 8L V10 got by with no PCV mechanism, just a fixed sized hole.

I have read that a "Dry Sump" is a kinda pcv replacement... the vacuum pump sucks all the blowby gases away at all rpms and the crank/rods/piston undersides all move with less air to push out of the way. This saves more horsepower at high rpm than the vacuum pump consumes.

I have not thought through how a "big cam" with more than stock overlap affects pcv selection.
Big cam overlaps make idle vacuum lower. Big cams create "internal EGR" at idle making the idle rough and lopey.

What adjustment does it have that makes the custom PCV worth $127 ?

my one application will be a set of cross rams from a '60 300F, which had a road draft tube. the other will be a max wedge intake. i like the idea of an oil mist catch can. i think i'll try to fab one for both of these applications.

i crossed the part number that was the Mopar Performance valve and somehow i came up with an application for one of the 4 cylinder dodges from the 90s i think it was.
fram FV281

it was significantly lighter weight than the PCV valve what was on the car, which i imagine was a factory 318 magnum application. i haven't started it yet so it will be interesting to see if it makes any differences.
my motor has 13" vacuum at 850rpm idle in neutral.

360view, the ME Wagner valve has several adjustability features.

They also built a PCV dyno/flowbench of sorts to figure out the whole thing.

The instructions have a chart to determine a baseline setup using CID and idle vacuum.

Notice how AndyF's valve has one screw backed way out? Thats to cover super low vacuum situations. $127 is a major chunk of change, but the valve is rebuildable and will always work for whatever combo you build.


Incidentally, I checked crankcase vac on my Dakota and it is 7" at idle.

got my invoice today.

You are confusing a crankcase evacuation system with a dry sump oiling system. Change the name in the above from "dry sump" to "crankcase evacuation system".

Me too!

I have had a MEWagner valve on my motor for about a month, which equates to just a few drives. I first heard of it here on Moparts and decided to give it a try. I would recommend reading their website, but here are some thoughts for consideration.

PCV system is to remove combustion by-products from the crankcase. These by-products can be deterimental to the oil and parts in the crankcase. By-products in the crankcase results from blowby (ie imperfect ring seal - it can never be perfect). Blowby is a function of both the quality of the ring seating but also the size of the ring area. Larger bore motors and higher compression will naturally have more blow-by volume, assuming equivalent ring seating to other motors. This is why ring technology gets so much focus.

In the old days, venting the crankcase was done by draft tubes, which used the positive pressure in the crankcase to force the vapors out. Obviously not real good for emissions and it left oily deposit on road surface. Positive crankcase pressure may increase likelihood of oil seepage at seals and gaskets and slightly increases the work load on the motor. The PCV system pulled those vapors back into the combustion process via a controlled vacuum leak (ie the PCV valve) which creates a negative pressure in the crankcase under some circumstances. Manufacturers tune the PCV to the motor characteristics.

Motors which have an overbore, higher compression, and performance cams can result in the factory PCV valve not being a good match. In my case I have a 400/470 stroker which has a 4.375" bore, the compression is a good 2 points higher and the extra displacement does not completely cover up the overlap presented by the cam. Vacuum at idle is much less than a factory motor (10" Hg in gear in my case before the swap). The PCV valve closes at low vacuum, and a modified motor may put the PCV valve in a reduced flow area at idle, particularly when transitioning from park into drive. Cam is also a bit lumpy which causes vacuum fluctuations. Put it all together and the "controlled vacuum leak" is now a "fluctuating vacuum leak", which can make the idle itself less stable and less smooth.

Big bore motors will also need more crankcase venting under normal highway driving, and extra PCV flow can be helpful.

The ME Wagner valve has two adjustments: one for when the low flow channel opens, and one for when the higher flow channel opens (total flow is sum of both channels). I have been able to move my low flow channel opening point to below typical in-gear idle conditions and have picked up a solid 1" or so of vacuum in gear after the initial tuning (better idle vacuum with a better controlled vacuum leak). I don't have power brakes but for some folks this could be a benefit. High flow adds in at cruising conditions. Like all PCV, valve will close at WOT; vacuum pump or evac systems have an advantage here.

Of course the benefit of this setup will vary on a case-by-case basis. I suspect there is more benefit to automatic cars and stroker motors. I will be curious to hear of other's results.

Thank you for that explanation of the two channels and their adjustments.

Yep that is the one. Here are some pictures.

Andy, did you use the same grommet with or breather on the other side's VC or something else?

Thanks,

Steve

Duh, the cheapest and easiest way is to plug it. It's just an emission thing anyway. How many on here have a pcv on there race car?

Most race cars dont run a PCV valve because they are at wide open throttle most of the time and the PCV valve dont work at wide open throttle as it will be closed. But I run a PCV valve on my street car as I prefer to run one and help purge any blowby from the crankcase and keep any pressure from building in the crankcase. I just run a stock type PCV and it works good at idle and part throttle. Ron

Ron,

Do you run a nipple breather on the driver's side? Where does that hose route to?

This is the best pic I have of it. The PCV hose goes to the large vacum nipple on the carb base. My power brake booster hose goes to a nipple on my Indy dual plane intake. And yes I do use a nipple breather on the drivers valve cover. The hose just goes down by the frame as I did not want any oil to maybe spit out onto the valve cover when I race it since the PCV dont work at full throttle. So I use that hose to run any spitting oil when I race under the frame but it does not spit any oil as the hose is still dry. Its open of course so the PCV system pulls air through the crankcase. Ron

This grommet is 1.22 OD

Nuts.
There's gotta be an industrial application for these grommets. No way the VC makers are molding their own.

Well I got my valve today now it's off to Summit tomorrow to get the correct Moroso grommet and a spacer with a nipple on it.
I was thinking about just changing to a differn't base plate on my carb but I'm not sure if they all are designed for 4-corner idle circuits. I will need to go with a 3" element if I go with a spacer but then my engine might like the spacer and I could get better throttle response
Quick Fuel makes a nice factory type cast replacement with all the ports I need that I might try but I'm not sure how to identify that it will have 4-corner capability.
Help

Gus

Received my two today also, now, if anyone has used a grommet that works for these valves with the MOPAR cast cover please give me a lead...Thanks, Joe

You can use the quick fuel base plate for 4 corner idle, just drill the idle feed holes in the rear the same size as what you have on the carb now, they are the round holes below the throttle blades. Check ebay, vendors there offer that baseplate in 2 and 4 corner idle.

Thanks for the tech info I'm going to Summit tomorrow and pick one up and see if it will work for me. I'll just make sure all the passages are the same as the Quick Fuel base on my carb now.

Gus

I don't have any of those valve covers around anymore but I'm gonna pick up one of those Moroso grommets that AndyF posted up.
I'm running the no name Summit valve covers on my 493.

Gus

received my two yesterday as well. i don't have any particular valve covers in mind yet, so i will decide on a grommet at the appropriate time. however, i really think i'll incorporate an oil mist separator in my application[s].

How many street cars have vacuum pumps tied into the exhaust....

Well I installed the spacer under my carb and pulled the valve cover and pulled the baffle that was too close to the valve cover.
I used the Moroso grommet that AndyF posted about and it works perfectly with the Summit plain Jane tall aluminum valve covers. I was surprised that my 493 is pulling about 13-15" of vacuum as I have never measured it before. I tried to follow the instructions when I set it up but I haven't driven it yet but my idle quality seems smoother. I'm probably going to have to jet up a little because of the spacer but we'll see after I put some miles on it.
So far I'm happy just to have a PCV on the car although I never had any oil mist around my breathers before and my engine is sealed up pretty tight.

Gus

Did you guys get a tracking # for the Group Buy PCVs? Mine hasn't shown up as of this AM. Thanks, Steve

Did not get a tracking #, they just showed up Sat., USPS.

Joe
PS , their phone # is 570-899-4544

NAPA 6301075 works. It is a little thicker so the PCV hangs only 1/16" or so below the grommet inside the rocker box.

I'm still waiting for mine also.

Thanks for the feedback. If it doesn't show up in the next couple of days, I'll get in touch with them.

Mine was waiting for me when I got home from work today.

Napa shows that one specs at:

PCV Valve Grommet I.D. 0.7 in.
PCV Valve Grommet O.D. 1.501 in.
PCV Valve Grommet Thickness 0.705 in.

So it's larger than the 1.22" My Cal custom has a 1" hole. I might have to have it machined open a little?

Looking at the profile shot of this grommet on the Napa site I will just grab one on the way home tomorrow to measure/check https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6301075

Mine showed up in yesterdays mail. Those folks seem to be on things.

Ahhhhh thats better, grommet solution at least for now. Cal Custom Valve cover 1" hole, and a 3/4" PCV

(I know a 2006 Chevy 3500 6.6 Duramax trans dip stick tube grommet probably specs real close to what I needed too as I was under one today with a digital caliper )

I'm glad you got it figured out.

I need to do some more tuning on mine because it seems to be burning a little oil I might need to put a separator on it because my engine never had any blue smoke before. I need to go over the instructions again.
Gus

Gus,

I wonder about the grommet. The ME folks comment about the air velocity being pulled by the PCV inlet, and although that small slot helps a lot with oil splash, I have to believe that the air velocity thru that slot is pretty high. The slot may help strip the oil from the air stream????

On my car, I added 1/4" spacers between the baffle and valve cover. I haven't driven the car enough yet, but my initial check for accumulation at the vapor separator did not show anything.

The NAPA grommet is a little tight around the PCV body, and in the hole of my generic fleabay fabbed AL rocker boxes, but fits. Hopefully no more weeping around the grommet.OD We'll see in the spring when this thing is back on the road.

I was using a Mr. Gasket grommet and a Fram 4.6 Mustang valve.

can anyone recommend an oil vapor separator ?

I bought a Mustang separator that's small and well made with a needle valve drain, it's at my son's house now.

I'll try to see if he can relay the #s to me and I'll update....stay tuned, Joe

"Steeda" Oil separator Kit, #555-3710

I don't have MP valve covers so with a 1" hole and a thinner retaining lip the Napa grommet I showed previously works in my application

THANKS JOE ! i'll check that out ! small is what my choice is after, but well made is first on the list. sounds like this may be both requests in one package.

I've used Steeda stuff for years on my Brand X ride, I used to live near their operation in Pompano Bch, FL. Good stuff and great service. I haven't used an oil separator as my SOHC 4.6 doesn't use a drop between changes, but if it matches the quality of the rest of their stuff, you won't be disappointed.

That Steeda unit looks just like the water separator on my air compressor line
Gus

good to hear ! just planning my installation[s], and the separator[s] will be just insurance to insure a clean supply of air to the carb/intake. thanks again !

I've got an update, it looks like the P.O. dropped the ball just before the finish line. I've been working with Barbara and she's gone above and beyond to get a replacement, even refusing my offer to pay for UPS shipping to my work address. I don't get P.O. delivery @ the worksite and I wanted delivered in my hot little hands.