Won't start after distributor swap

For some reason I couldn't find anything via search, sorry. Replaced the worn distributor on my 440 today and now the car won't start at all. In theory everything should be fine: manually cranked the engine over for the balancer markings to line up, noted the position of the distributor finger and set the new distributor up in the exact same way before sliding it in place. Transferred the ignition cables to the new cap and installed that.
Anything wrong with that?

If not I'll have to replace part of the wiring harness. The old wires connecting the ignition module with the distributor pickup are brittle and were missing the connector plug. Had to crimp them instead.

Rory

is it firing at all? and when does it fire, does fire a lot, or a little? Does it back fire when it does fire?

Are you sure the new distributor is good? Did you try the distributor with the rotor in the opposite direction in case you goofed? It can only go one way or the other.

I have rarely if ever had a distrbutor line up without making some other adjustment.

the rotor usually isn't indexed the same between distrbutors regardless of the bottom slot lining up the same.

I always wind up finding tdc again to get it to fire after a swap like that.

Doesn't fire at all, nada. I've had the distributor for two years but never got round to it until now. Other than that it's a new in box FireCore distributor (not the RTR version obviously). Even checked the gap and set it to 0.007"

If you noted where the rotor was pointing, then removed the old dist., then rotated the engine to align the timing marks, then inserted the replacement dist. making sure the rotor is pointing where the rotor was on the old dist., then you have the rotor pointing at the wrong spot as obviously the timing marks weren't aligned or you wouldn't have had to turn the crank over to align them. I say start over by aligning the timing marks, then make sure the rotor is pointing at number 2 cylinder front inside manifold bolt with the number 1 tower on the cap also aligned with the rotor - that is where the number 1 plug cable is inserted in the dist. cap. Look in the book for the picture on how/where to align things.

Check the pickup coil inside for the proper ohms to see if it's even any good. And make sure you connected the wires properly and didn't mistakenly swap them before crimping.

Or borrow a known good dist. to test.

Spark plug #1 isn't exactly fun to get at unfortunately. You can just about squeeze your fingers under the exhaust manifold. Poking something in there while cranking the engine with a breaker bar at the same time will be a real challenge.
Shouldn't the engine be at TDC for cylinder #1 when the balancer markings line up?
I know that balancers can move over time but I've always used these markings to set timing, surely they can't be way out?

No, I aligned the timing marks with the old distributor in place and noted the rotor position before taking the old distributor out. Didn't move the engine after that.
Maybe I shouldn't have done it that way.

Ok, I got it now. That is the way to do it. So it's either the coil inside the replacement dist., or a wire broke while you were doing the install. With brittle wires I can understand one breaking.

Yeah, thought as much. Sounds like I'll have to go out and buy more crimp connectors and wiring. So not looking forward to that, took me ages to do it. Maybe having a proper wire stripper would help too (I do have a quality crimping tool though).

You said "worn" old distributor, why not put it back in to check, assuming it ran before?

It did run so yeah, that's an option. It's probably the original one though, 40+ yrs old. The plastic on the rotor was worn to a conical shape, presumably the shaft wobbles quite a bit. Plenty of crud and copper rust too.


Right now I'd put my money on the wiring. I guess I could do a continuity test but unfortunately the ignition box is in a rather difficult place to get at (behind the grill and in front of the radiator).

I would set the dampener slit on 15 BTDC #1 compression & turn the dist housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth which places the rotor is under or near under the #1 plug wire cap terminal & snug it down & see if it will fire. post how it goes. EDIT if there is any doubt if you are on #1 or #6 TDC compression, if you can see into one of the valve cover holes to see the #1 or #6 rockers to check them for movement while someone moves the dampener with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar. If on #1 TDC compression the #1 cyl pair of rockers will not be moveing when he turns the dampener slit a bit to either side of zero on the timing tab.
OE plug wire clocking would be while standing on the pass side of the car: vac can straight up at 12 o'clock (pointing across/toward dr side). #1 plug wire at 5 o'clock. #1 plug wire located in cap just below (closer to you) the front dist cap spring retainer all of which lets the plug wires nestle as neat as possible but as you know lets figure out whats wrong & get it running first.

Ground the distributor body
Check the magnetic pickup for proper spacing from spider..Brass feeler gauges are requested.

When I used to put the rotor in backwards on a GM car there would be some sounds from combustion of whatever was hanging around.

You should be able to hotwire the ignition system. Locate the "power in" and "ground" wires. Run connections from the battery to these wires. + goes to power in, and - goes to ground. Now stsrt the engine. It should start unless it's
flooded. If flooded use all appropriate steps.

When the engine starts you will have to disconnect the power input in order to stop the engine. The key will not work for this.

If this works you have faulty wiring.

R.

quote /,manually cranked the engine over for the balancer markings to line up,noted the position of the distributor finger and set the new distributor up in the exact same way before sliding it in place. quote/.

Are you sure you're not 180* out ?

No luck yet. Just lugged the battery home to recharge overnight.
Balancer cranked to TDC, rotor pointing @ cyl 1, reluctor tooth/pickup dead on. New wiring in place but doesn't fire up. Like nothing at all. Battery at 12.4 V now which should be enough but decided to call it a day.

Maybe I'll swap the old dizzy back in tomorrow and see how that goes.

You can still be 180* out of time. TDC comes up twice in a firing event. Easiest thing to do is just pull the distributor up enough to turn the rotor 180* and set it back down. Then try to start it.

pull the secondary (large) coil wire out of the dist cap & hold the end of it 1/4" from a metal ground & have a helper crank it with the key & lets see if it is even sparking.

With my CD ignitions, that's a good way to get a multitude of shocks unless you insulate your hand.

BTW, have you done my hotwire test yet?

"You should be able to hotwire the ignition system. Locate the "power in" and "ground" wires. Run connections from the battery to these wires. + goes to power in, and - goes to ground. Now stsrt the engine. It should start unless it's
flooded. If flooded use all appropriate steps." If it's an MSD tie the positive to both of the red wires.


R.

But at least he'll KNOW if it is working.

^^^ this

Bet it runs !!

Ya, take number 1 plug out, stick your finger in the plug hole of number 1.

turn it over until number one plug hole spits on your finger.

That'll be top dead center on the compression stroke.

Then turn the crank over until the timing lines line up.

If you have already gone past, then turn it over until the lines line up for the second time, double checking with the finger in the plug hole trick.

Well, it took me a while. Turned out the distributor wasn't seated properly which was kinda difficult to see due to the angle it's supposed to sit at (and the cramped conditions in my engine bay).
Re-installed it but this time I actually managed to get it 180* out, which again took me a while to figure out... :-(
Started from scratch today by cranking the engine to TDC, sliding the correctly aligned distributor in and andvancing it a few degreed. Fired right up!
Let it idle a few minutes, drove it round the block, got out the timing light and I'm good.

excellent