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Is there and dents/damage to the male end where it seals right on the tip?
How hard can you torque these things? I am hesitant to put too much pressure with them being made of aluminum, and yes I have the correct aluminum wrenches for the fittings.
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I meant maybe it's the fitting screwed into the fuel pump, where it screws into the pump? Is it tapered pipe thread or straight thread that uses a O ring to seal?
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the fittigs with the o-rings never use pipe tape on them. they are designed to be sealed with only the o-ring. pipe tape if its on too thick may stop it from seating correctly and giving an improper torque reading.
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the fittigs with the o-rings never use pipe tape on them. they are designed to be sealed with only the o-ring. pipe tape if its on too thick may stop it from seating correctly and giving an improper torque reading.
Ditto
I will note that for the future. The angle of the lines may be a good point, I don't think any of the bends are that sharp. I had this setup for 5 years and it never leaked a drop until I had to R&R the fuel pump a few times because of leaks in the rotor housing of the pump. 
in. I know a retired Top Fuel Crew Chief and learned from him that he always "lapped" the fittings in the flare area.
Quote:Excellent idea & my kind of guy
I figured I'd throw my
After I learned about this I started inspecting mine and have found that very little surface area is actually making contact!
Try using some lapping compound (sparingly) on the flare, snug up the fitting and swivel it back and forth until it cleand the anodizing off of both flared ends of the fittings. Look for a nice pattern like you would find on a valve/seat face. Be sure to remove all the lapping compound with some brake clean especially important with oil lines!
Give it a try and if it is still weeping fuel go for a second round of lapping. I think this will take care of your issue and won't cost much. Other than my "Nominal Fee".
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I figured I'd throw my
After I learned about this I started inspecting mine and have found that very little surface area is actually making contact!
Try using some lapping compound (sparingly) on the flare, snug up the fitting and swivel it back and forth until it cleand the anodizing off of both flared ends of the fittings. Look for a nice pattern like you would find on a valve/seat face. Be sure to remove all the lapping compound with some brake clean especially important with oil lines!
Give it a try and if it is still weeping fuel go for a second round of lapping. I think this will take care of your issue and won't cost much. Other than my "Nominal Fee".
A road car is not putting as much fuel and pressure as a top fuel or any thing like that. I just put them together and never had one leak. My big block v-drive flattie had many many fittings and none ever leaked.
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Wow , never heard of that. I've built,tuned and driven 3 TADs and 2 Q8 dragsters and have made many hoses and have never had a problem getting them to seal. I only used KB fittings that were hard anidozied and I don't think you want rub that off because then the alky will attack the aluminum.
Ever heard of Ken Veney? Been around a long time. He currently runs a 3 Alcohol Hemi (converting to 4) Pulling Tractor and does not put a new AN line on the thing until it has been lapped! The man does not do things for the sake of just doing them.
If you think about it the alcohol should not make contact with the fitting in the sealing area where the anodizing will be removed except on disassembly. I dont beleive he's using alcohol anyway.
I have never had a problem either and I have Earl's on my car. Just thought I'd try to help the dude out!
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I figured I'd throw my
After I learned about this I started inspecting mine and have found that very little surface area is actually making contact!
Try using some lapping compound (sparingly) on the flare, snug up the fitting and swivel it back and forth until it cleand the anodizing off of both flared ends of the fittings. Look for a nice pattern like you would find on a valve/seat face. Be sure to remove all the lapping compound with some brake clean especially important with oil lines!
Give it a try and if it is still weeping fuel go for a second round of lapping. I think this will take care of your issue and won't cost much. Other than my "Nominal Fee".
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Settle down, not saying your wrong.
Just never had to do it. I was lucky I guess.
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I hope he doesn't have 37 degree fittings mixed up with 45 degree?
Thanks for the help I should be able to get this solved once and for all with all these great ideas.
seeing as how i had about $500 worth of hose and fittings in the car and would have to
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A few months ago my car sprung a massive leak right in the middle of a long length of Earls perform O flex -8 braided hose.
I couldn,t believe it since they were only about 5 years old as well
and not that smoke colored hose. Worse yet mine is about 7 years old. That would really suck because I also have a fortune wrapped up in fittings and hose as I have a return style fuel system. Thanks for the heads up
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A few months ago my car sprung a massive leak right in the middle of a long length of Earls perform O flex -8 braided hose.
I couldn,t believe it since they were only about 5 years old as well
I think that is exactly what I have I think if that is the stainless steel(silver) hose
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2 things come to mind, 1. slide the fitting back and check the flair for cracks or pits. 2. did you flair it with an AN flair tool? they are 37* not the standard 45*. either one of those will cause it to leak..
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2 things come to mind, 1. slide the fitting back and check the flair for cracks or pits. 2. did you flair it with an AN flair tool? they are 37* not the standard 45*. either one of those will cause it to leak..
These are both fittings I purchased from Earls, I didn't make any of the flairs, perhaps I missed a step? I never even heard of a flair tool...
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braided line
just make sure you lubricate the rubber(inside the line) when you screw the outer piece into it. if the braided hose is not new it can leak also and make you think it's the fitting.