lake wood scatter sheild

okay i have a old lakewood scatter sheild here is my question i have a 130 tooth flywheel it appears that the starter wont work.Does anyone know if there is a aftermarket starter that will fit i really dont want to go to the the 143 because i have. a brand new clutch kit on this flywheel just wondering if theres any option aside buying a diffrent bell housing or diffrent ring gear thanks

I believe there is a bracket you bolt in that makes the starter fit that flywheel.

Does it have multiple starter mounting holes? If so and it has a hole for the starter nose adapter then you should be able to use both the 143 and 130 tooth flywheels, if it doesn't have the starter nose hole and only has one set of mounting holes it may be for a 170 tooth Hemi motor and flywheel

Lakewood 15905 starter adapter kit. Good luck finding one !! Maybe Brewers ??

yep googled the part number found one got it on its way i wonder why there so hard to find must not have sold enough of them i guess

Here's another option - have the flywheel that works drilled for the pressure plate you want to use. Should be done long before you find the adapter, if what everyone says is an indication.

Cost me $35 when I did it for my $500 ford pickup.

R.

thanks i think thats what going to happen i just recieved a email they canncelled my order there out of stock summitt is un availble and so is brewers

I have same scatter shield and needed that kit too. I gave up and went back to a stock bell housing. I had already bought brand new flywheel, twin disc clutch setup. I had it for sale but can't in good conscience sell it someone and stick them with something they cant use. So now its a $600 paperweight until I figure out what to do with it. Maybe if I get ambitious I'll draw up the parts and see if I can get a machine shop to fabricate them.

Making those pieces would be a piece of cake for just about anyone with a lathe. The cup i.d. is the o.d. of the starter snout. The o.d. of the cup is already machined into the scattershield (look, you'll see it). The other part is lust a piece of rad welded to some flat bar - instead of turning down a larger piece of rod you could just put a sleeve over the thinner piece.

I'll take a look, the only piece I bought the kit for was the cup. If I can find it I'll measure up the other part. Hell, maybe I'll just make these kits up !!

They do make 143 tooth wheels with multiple patterns on them. I have drilled my own flywheels before for custom plates.

Gus

I have seen a few of these laying around my bolt buckets. I can look for one this weekend if you need it. Let me know. I'm talking about the little metal cup that holds the nose of the starter.

If you do run the scatter shield, make sure you not only check the runout on the alignment of the input opening in relation to the crankshaft centerline, but also that the face of the transmission mounting surface is parallel to the back of the block. I have to use both the offset dowels AND small thin washers to line my scatter shield up square too and centered too the crank.

Many people only check the opening runout and skip the later. It is just as important that it be correct.

can anyone tell me is there a diffrence in this bell housing
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BH450

its listed as a 3 speed bell housing im thinking about buying it i have a 833 23 spline out of a 68 road runner

can anyone tell me is there a diffrence in this bell housing
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BH450

its listed as a 3 speed bell housing im thinking about buying it i have a 833 23 spline out of a 68 road runner

bellhousing would fit your engine, but your transmission will not fit it. you should have a 4.807 front bearing retainer. read here:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=82

jess

How can you determine if your scattershield needs this kit?

Three speeds and four speeds have different mounting bolt patterns on the bell to trans interface. So even if you had the proper diameter input bearing retainer you'd be up the crick.

If you have a scattershield that can be used with either a 130 or 143 tooth flywheel AND you are using a 130, then you need the kit.

HOWEVER, it is really adsvisable that you use the starter snout support regardless as this goes a long way towards saving starter motors. Stock bells have a machined provision to support the starter snout, scattershields don't.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SAC-LW

Aren't all smallblocks 130 tooth? I suspect the smallblock scattershields are specific and are all 130 tooth.

yea this has defently been a learning exprience for me really wish that bell kit was availble. So if i go back to a stock bell do i have to look for one that is a 10.5 or are the 11 inch ones diffrent? also anyone now if there if theres a video installing the lakewood starter kit on that bell? i may order a starter snout and try make my own id just like to watch a video see if i can get a idea how it works to do it

no videos that I know of BUT if you install the snout support it pretty much aligns the starter enough that you could then get close measurements for the small bracket.

There are several different stock NP 833 bell housing sold on the cars from Mopar during the production runs from 1964 to the end of them being used in 1976 to 1979
They made them in cast steel and cast aluminum, 130 tooth with 10.5 inch clutches and 143 tooth flywheels with 11.0 clutches. They also had several different front bearing retainer sizes, biggest for the O.D. tranny, regular size with the 307 bearings and bigger hole for the H.D tranny for the 440 and Hemi motors with the 308 front bearings
good luck, take your time to get it correct the first time

BigBlockBryan,

I have the part that allows for use of a 130T flywheel, it is the part in your pic on the right.

If you want it, you can have it, just pay for the shipping...your call/

I do not have the nose cone piece, as I have that installed in my Lakewood bell. the nose locator is used for both the 130 and 143 flywheels.

Regards, Mark

yea i just picked up a cast iron bell of ebay thats for a 10.5 clutch just gonna get this thing on the road sick of not driving my car

is THIS it?



were all smallblock flywheels 130 tooth?

If so I only need the nose cone piece.

If not I need this: Lakewood adapter kit

And PERFECT timing as I have had the Lakewood and Center force forever but just broke a clutch spring on the stock unit yesterday

Thanks for any help

You'll be sicker and not driving longer if your right foot is missing... depending on how strong your engine is (and how many RPM you turn it), the scattershield is never a bad idea.

Bump

by the time you buy the other parts you need to install the 833 without all it's bolts you could just pony up for the right bellhousing

Yes all smallblocks were only 130tooth.

If that is a smallblock bellhousing you shouldn't need that .

Running up your post count about sums it up. Late to the party as usual ... all his issues have been addressed.

What exactly does that little tab with the stepped stud on it do?

We have one of the Lakewood bell housings we use on the dyno, and I thought the one starter bolt hole for the 130T flywheel was just drilled in the wrong place.

For the dyno, it's not really a big deal. The upper bolt fits okay, and on the bottom one I just use a c clamp.

This will explain and show it:

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/620/620-15905.pdf

Got it ........ Thanks.

If you pull your head out of your backside long enough to see what was actually going on in the world around you you'd realize to whom I was responding to ...

UCUDANT asked twice about this part, and flywheel tooth count near the end of this thread and no one had responded to his 2 requests for info.

but thanks for playing ...