Enclosed trailer question

I don't own a trailer but have been thinking a lot lately about buying one. I drive my cuda to shows but thought I could use the trailer for long distance events.

It seems an e body and even a b body would fit fine in a 20 ft trailer, but I see most guys buy a 24 ft trailer. Is the main reason to have more room to tie down the front?

I drive a 2012 Ram with tow package. Standard cab and bed with 5.7 hemi, 4 wheel drive, 20" wheels and 3:91 gears.

Tom

To properly distribute the weight, 24 ft works best. Also, unless you buy a side door, or are really skinny you will need a few feet in front to mount the winch to load it, and have room for spare trailer tires, cooler , generator, parts tool box etc.

20' is too small and is worthless when it comes to resale.

24' is the smallest you should consider.

A 2 door pickup has a short wheelbase and will not be the idea tow vehicle. 20-24' won't matter as far as pulling it.

What is a standard bed? If it's the short bed than it will really be a handful to tow with because of the even shorter WB. You need a long WB to tow with comfortably.

I agree with previous input. Had a 28' enclosed and while the space was nice, it was a bit too long for some situations. I felt a 24' would be ideal.

Be careful on weight capacity. In my opinion a 7000 pd enclosed trailer can quickly be over capacity if you're not careful. You need to remember the weight of the trailer counts in the capacity calculation.

This advice coming from someone who just finished repairs on a 7000 pd H&H tilt bed which had an inner wheel bearing failure after 2500 miles of use. That trailer weighs 2000 pds empty.

Pulling a big trailer with a short wheelbase truck is not fun. I pulled mine with a 2013 Ram 1/2 ton 4 dr pickup. Capacity wise it pulled fine but on occasion the trailer would let you know it was back there. Next time I'd use at least a 3/4 ton.

I'll put my 2 cents in, as long as you get the weight distribution right, not driving 80 mph, or weaving in and out of traffic, you will be fine with what you have. But, just heed the advice above, dont overload the trailer, tire pressure and watch your GVW.

OK - if all you are going to use it for is to take a "Show Car" out every now and then you will be fine with a 20 ft trailer. You will not be taking a generator, big tool box and sleeping gear and all kinds of other stuff - right? So to get your car to where you are going a 20 footer is easy to handle and will serve your needs well. Overkill is what most people suggest when it's not needed. Now if you were racing the car then I would say you need a larger trailer just to carry the extra's that are needed. I also call BS on what size truck is needed most times. If you do get a 20 ft trailer your 1500 and even a short wheel base will do fine as long as you are careful and not driving like a mad man. Thats my and I'm sticking by it!!!


Russ

Good advice above. I'll add that if you do use your regular cab truck, I'd purchase a equalizer hitch and sway bar. That will help control the trailer. Buy a trailer with brakes on both axles.

The 20' won't leave you enough room to tie down an 18' car. Plus it's a little butt puckering to drive in each time having to almost touch the front wall every time you load. The 24 gives you enough room to pull in, balance the load and strap properly.

IMO an enclosed 24 is too much trailer for your 1/2 ton. Your 5.7 will be screaming to pull that thing especially when you hit a good wind. I think you would be better off with an open trailer in this case.

I have a similar truck reg cab short bed and borrowed a 20 ft enclosed a couple times hauling a 2000lb race car.
I didn't have any issues but I was only going a short distance.
Since you are not racing and not taking extra stuff I think a 20'
could work.
Resale isn't that bad a lot of sports car/Porsche guys buy them.
Looked for used aluminum 20' but never found a decent deal I ended up buying an open trailer since I found one for cheap.

I have a 32' LQ trailer that has a 20' garage and I have had my 69 D200 truck in it several times with no issues. Most people buy a 24' because being the most popular length means there are more of them being built hence the price is usually just a few hundred more than a 20' trailer. If you ever owned a 20' trailer then you find out that you eventually run out of space for things you would like to bring along or you want to buy a large part at a swap meet and find if you had more room you could have brought home!

Here's a thought. For ease of tying down, I had my trailer equipped with luggage doors all around and full length E-track to install wheel straps. No crawling under the car for me. This is a 22'. Towed it through the Rockies with two different Rams.

All great input, keep it coming...

Can someone explain in plain English the rating abreviations from the attached chart?

My truck is on page one with 5.7 hemi and 3:92 gears

Std Cab - 6'4" Box 4x4 - ST / TRADESMAN / EXPRESS

2012 Ram towing chart

Your truck ratings are on the bottom line of the top chart, gross combine weight rating of 14,000 lbs. with the truck and trailer with the contents, pay load, in the trailer.
That is a light duty truck with a GVR of 6,200 lbs. , I would weigh it as you drive it and then decide on what weight and length trailer you want to tow
I've own three different enclosed trailer, two 24 Ft. 10,000 GVR and one 22 ft. 7,000 lb. GVR. I bought the 22 ft. new and specified what I wanted in it, the salesman promise me it would weigh under 3,000 lbs. empty, he LIED It weighed 4260 lbs. empty
I towed that trailer and my current 24 Ft. Pace with a 1998 Ram 2500 short bed extended cab CTD, it had a combine towing capacity of 16,800 lbs. is what I remember. I spun it out on black ice on my first trip moving up here to Oregon,it bent up th edrivers side of the bed and hurt the towing hitch, NOT GOOD
I ended up buying a 2006 Ram 3500 four door 4 wheel drive long bed after we moved in here in Bend, Or due to the bad winters, it works great towing
I have weighed my current 24 Ft. Pace and it weighed around 8650 lbs. hook up to the truck with my old pump gas Street Duster which weighed 3450 lbs. with me in it so subtract 260 lbs. from that for the empty weight of the car, that trailer weight is with a medium size tool box , big 5500 watt Yamaha commercial generator, two floor jacks, one regular size and one small size, extra engine oil, tranny and rear end fluids, 8 to 10 spare tires and wheels for the car and trailer The trailer does add about 750 lbs. onto the trucks rear axle and lightens up the front axle around 450 lbs.
Make sure and buy a trailer that has the 6000 lb. or larger rated axles and 16 inch wheels and tires, stay away from the smaller rated axles and 15 inch wheels and tires.
I carry three spare trailer tires now mounted on the steel 6 lug wheels due to having blown two of them out on the road towing
I'm thinking and hoping to buy a good 34 to 38 ft. gooseneck car trailer with living quarters and 7000 lbs. axles and 8 lug 16 inch wheels and tires next
IHTHs

8900: Even though your Cuda is about 3400lbs, I like to calculate 4500lbs to cover any car I might want to trailer. So that leaves up to a 4400lb trailer. I think most 24' enclosed trailers, no frills, range from 2800-3600lbs empty.

6350: So with you plus some small tools in the RAM you're ok at 5300lbs Gross Vehicle Weight. 5400lbs with a burrito at lunch.

14,000: So a bare trailer, Cbody and extra parts will bring you close to 13,500lbs Gross Combined Vehicle Weight, that doesn't leave much room for a couple fat chick ride alongs.

Pulling close to max is no big deal once in awhile. If you do it regularly, it's not good for the RAM or your wallet. Have you considered an open trailer? They're usually under 2000lbs. And if the axle rating is high enough, you can trailer your buddy's F150 when the time comes. Also, versatility with landscaping materials. Security is an issue, so how far, how many nights will you be using it?

No matter what size trailer you purchase open or enclosed the most important part is to get the biggest axles and tires and brakes you can. never get 15" tires and nothing less than 6 lug wheels preferable 8 lug wheels and 12 inch brakes.
On a trip from Vegas to Tn with my 97 club cab dually 12ft slide out camper fully loaded 28ft triple axle trailer, the power steering pump shaft broke. I lost the truck brakes and steering assist. Using basically the trailer brakes I drove from Texas to TN 1100 miles with just the trailer brakes. The trailer still performs flawlessly today.
The only issue I have ever had was the cheap OE tires that it came with. I run BFG lt235 85 R16 tires now never another problem.

Of all the trailers I have had this boat trailer was the only one that had brakes on all 4 wheels... It used to pull the tow vehicle to a stop when the brakes engaged..

I agree with the above post...

For a couple years I towed a 20' v-nose in the 6000-6500 pound range with an 06 Hemi Ram quad cab w/3.91 gears and had no issues. Weight shouldn't be an issue for you. My 20' trailer hauls my 14' 240Z race car with all my spare parts and tools.

Your cuda might fit in a 20' without too much trouble but a B-body would be difficult if it would even fit. That would put a lot of weight on the nose using a 20' trailer.

I suggest a 24' v-nose trailer with at least a left side access door and an Andersen weight distribution hitch. Keep your speed at 65 or below and it should be a nice ride.

Chuck

LT tires are illegal on trailers in most states. You guys who have been towing for years are freaking out the newbies, no need for 6K axles and 16" tires on an occasional tow trailer, and no need for a diesel either. I do recommend 5K axles with 15" wheels and E rated tires, for what the OP is doing that is MORE than enough. My 2004 32' LQ trailer that I had built has those axles and tires and has towed just fine for 13 years now. Yes I have blown a tire or two, but I tend to wear them out and not replace them every other year like some of you do.

17,400 combined packed for 3 days at the track. 28ft Cargo mate 16" wheels on 5K axles. It's starting to let me know that 3.54 gears are not ideal ....but if I have to tow 9hrs to the track, I'm not doing it at 60mph.

car show guy.. I'd still favor the 24ft for the above stated reasons. you may find the extra room is beneficial. Even gives you the option to throw a mattress in front of the car for an overnighter if need be. The 15" tire deal will probably be ok for your needs too. I went 16 due to the load we're carrying, and with my old trailer I used every 15" tire under the sun (pun intended... live in the desert) and they all failed. Found that I simply had to replace them every 2 years no matter what they looked like. So far the 16's have lasted longer, and it gives me the option to go to an even larger rated F or G. Sold my 24ft trailer in a day for 5K a couple years ago. Good market for that size.

Every racer I know that has had 15" tires has had nothing but problems. They went to 16" and no more issues. I have traveled all over the country and hear the same story time and again. Minimum 6 bolt axles 16" tires and biggest brakes you can get. What is your cargo worth? Common sense.

That is slick !

....and my opinion on the OP's tool 4 towing. It will work. I towed my 24ft enclosed trailer with a 95 1500 4x4 3.5 gear ram. Had the tow package and still added another cooler to keep the trans temp in check (again... desert environment requires more attention in this area). Was it the right tool for the job? no, but it worked for a few years until we found a 2500 that suited us. We took our time, and often adjusted our route to more favorable roads (less grades). I know the 1500 you have is twice the pickup that my 95 was. Better trans, better gearing, more power, and twice the brakes.

I've never seen those luggage doors - that's the bug's nuts.

The owner of the trailer store had one to tow his Benz behind his motorhome. When I saw the setup I knew that was the way to go, and cheap too. I just gave them the measurements where I wanted the doors, and waited 8 weeks to get the trailer built.

Thanks for all the info Guys, this helps a lot!

If you install a winch to pull the car into the trailer and to let it out under your control NEVER leave the winch line tight while towing Tie the car down with it tight and then back it off a little That adds years to the winch life, don't ask me how I know about that

And if you do install a winch buy this remote set-up. you will love it and yourself for doing so.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-Winch-R...ATV-Warn-Ramsey

I have a 20', twin 5k axle Haulmark: was a deal that found me. Was not even considering an enclosed. Even though I agree that 24' is ideal, having worked with this 20' for two+ years I would suggest to not rule out this size if a deal were to present itself.

Primarily I haul C3/C4 Corvettes (1968-96) in it, but have done B and E Bodies too. With the Vettes, space is of no concern even with a winch set up in the nose. The E body is very livable, the B Body is tight but not the end of the world.

My suggestions beyond ones previously mentioned: I'd recommend an arched roof and bowed nose unit. The arched roof is a must if it snows where you are: flat roof will not allow the snow to "flow off". It will sit there- then will just hold water and corrode the roof. The bowed nose will give a slight bit more room. The flat roof/flat front units are cheaper. Hallmark and the like (more $$) are arched. Look for torsion bar 5k axles, not the leaf spring 3.5k ones.

Winch guys, I'm gonna show my ignorance here. Winching on seems easy. Does the car want to roll back when winching off?

No, what he means is that leaving the winch tight ruins the internal brake in the winch, then it will want to roll back when winching on!

If you crank up the trailer tougne then it will usually roll off easy. I reverse the winch (let out the cable) and give the cars push. Once it wants to roll out, I then use the winch to control the rolling.

Oh that makes sense on how to get it off without a driver. Got it.

If you then get a wireless remote as suggested in a prior post ( I have to get one myself), then your can steer the car and run the winch all on your own.

Only winch it off if the trailer is tilted to the rear and then you can winch the car out of the trailer - if thats the question.

Thanks for all the good input everybody. I thought I would check back in. The reason I posted was I had an eye on the trailer I bought.

20ft 2017 United ULT already outfitted with 2 spares and E track. The original owner bought it in Feb. Hauled once with it and his wife said it had to go.

I got it for 2 grand off what he paid. I towed it home yesterday and it pulled fine empty. I plan to buy a weight distribution hitch for hauling E bodies.

Tom

An e-body is short and fat so the 20" trailer will be fine, just hRd to get in and out in the trailer.

I got skinny legs and a convertible

But I hear ya, I'm not getting any younger

Good deal...forgot to mention E-Track: very nice bonus. Good score!

Congratulations. You will love have an enclosed trailer. Loving my United so far.

I haul B-bodies in my 20' with no problems. I wanted a 20' trailer due to limitations on where I needed to park it. Has worked out fine for 15 years.

Very cool, thanks for the support and cudos!

If the trailer has a dove tail the last two to three feet it will roll out on its own on level ground with the winch line to control the speed it rolls out as long as the winch will go both ways under power
If the front of the trailer is a tiny higher than the back of the trailer you may need to push the car back far enough for the rear tires to reach the down slope, if the trailer has no dovetail plan on raising the tongue up high enough to have the rear of trailer lower than the front to get it to roll backwards due to gravity
My first three winches where one way, power in and coast out with a brake on the winch to control the out motion
Don't make that mistake

I plan to buy a weight distribution hitch for hauling E bodies.


Too bad you did not live closer as I have a set up that I will sell reasonable that I took off of my trailer when I sold it because the guy already had a set. I do not need it with my goose-neck trailer. Kind of heavy to ship.

Do you guys install toolboxes, a small workbench or other such things in your trailers? If so, how are these installed? Are these items easily removable?

Any other accessories / features that are useful?

My trailer came with upper and lower cabinets, and the top for the lower cabinets is aluminum and makes a descent work top.
I installed E-Track to the side wall, and then I ratchet strap a rolling toolbox to the wall.

I have a 28' Haulmark that I pull behind my Dodge Ram 2500. I would never go smaller than that. I have a steel 6' bench on the left front wall with a tool box and vise mounted to it. I put my golf cart on the right front and still plenty of enough room for my B bodies.