Dash suede finish ??

Ok, so this topic has come up quite often but I'm going to raise it again.

Firstly, I know guys have painted their dashes with all kinds of finishes. Some have used rattle can "flat", some 'semi gloss" others using low gun pressure, others using Rustoleum "textured" and others using somewhat original lacquer with the suede additive and some have used powder coating.

Personally, I've used a rattle can "Mopar restoration" textured dash finish AND the Rustoleum textured finish. In MY opinion, these are the closest to original "texture" you can get (based on my original dash finish). This is not to say the finish can't be duplicated other ways - whatever floats your boat !!

HOWEVER ... while I was able to get a decent finish on most of the dash, I just could not get the top (most noticeable area) consistent. After sanding it off and retrying at least four times I'm still left with an inconsistent finish (flat spots).

SO ... I've decided that since the dash isn't something you can just pop out any old time and redo, its gotta be right before it goes in. That said I've decided that shooting it with a gun is the only way to get the spray pattern correct to do this surface.

So it now comes down to paint.

The original stuff was lacquer AND it can still be mixed to the original formula and purchased.

HOWEVER, according to the TCP Global website (see link below), the formula can also be mixed in Acrylic Enamel, Urethane or Basecoat. The urethane being more durable than lacquer.

So my question is:

Has anyone out there had the suede finish mixed in anything other than lacquer and what was the end result?

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

I think their name is Instrument Specialties, and they sell the correct suede paint, talk to them.

The key to using texture paint is keep it consistently about 15 inches away from the dash or steering column...but you first need to have a black base coat that will cover the primed piece so you are not trying to use the texture paint to give complete coverage. Hope that helps.

Yup, done that. After four tries I pretty much nailed every rattle can technique.

The column, ash tray and everywhere else turned out great - just the large flat top surface came out like crap.

$99.00 a pint.

You can still buy that EXACT same stuff from any automotive paint supplier for $99. a QUART.

The point is, I don't want to use lacquer. My question is
"Has anyone out there had the suede finish mixed in anything other than lacquer and what was the end result?"

Why don't you want to use lacquer? OK it's expensive, but it's not like you are going to be storing bricks on your dash.

If you spray it right it looks just like the factory. Most people spray it to close I think and end up with a rough surface or runs.

I painted my dash with it and enough paint to do another 6 cars. It's worth every penny.

NO You won't get the same finish with enamel paint.

I have used gallons of the correct swede lacquer paint and sprayed it with numerous different spray guns. I checked last year they still had the stuff to mix it. Easy stuff to work with if you have the
right lacquer thinner for the conditions. Gun is not critical.

I have used that color for many projects over the years, like dragster dashes before carbon fiber. Last year I used it to repaint a 12 year old plastic grill off a freightliner truck. It is just the right finish of black for this grill. And the argent silver was dead on the original silver with a little more pop.

Mopar argent silver poly.
Done deal...all mopar colors. Easy to work with, I also have sprayed 3 different part numbers of textured black.

That paint is too handy not to have some in lacquer, IMO.

And the lacquer holds up well too, I did that actually 2 years ago. This is the truck 2 weeks ago in NC after many bugs and truck washes.

2 dashes 2 different blacks. Just for kicks one night. Figured I go with one I liked best. It also helped me answer a question I had about the different blacks. One was rough, it was the stuff used for hoods I believe.

I can't see the side of can, who makes it? I don't need a gallon but just enough to do dash,trim and column. It's blue.

Colors may be an issue now a days in lacquer?

Across the river from me in northern Kentucky there is at least one major auto paint place still selling lacquer. Not all mixes just what they can get or have left. I been buying lacquer from them since the mid 80s when I was restoring my first challenger. They used to sell lacquer everywhere you know back in the day. KOI auto parts is who I am referring too. They have stores all over these parts.

The cans are PPG paints with the original numbers on them that matches my body service manual for 1971 challengers.

Is yours brite blue or med blue? Let me know and I will do some checking tomorrow and let you know what they say.

Lacquer paint mixed in among blown hemi parts.

PPG Duracryl



For one thing, I'm in Canada and Lacquer is no longer available up here. Nor are we allowed to "legally" bring it in so it can't be ordered and shipped here.

Second, I figured if its available in a VOC compliant product like Urethane, that would be the way to go.

But I think I'm just going to order some when I go to Carlisle and bring it back.

Quart of Lacquer from TCP Global:
RSP AL-A-QT AL-ACRYLIC LACQUER "A" COLOR RESTORATION SHOP PAINT $59.96

Check out these guys. select year, model (plymouthinterior) and ditzler code and SHAZAM !!
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

PPG makes a matte clear with a soft touch finish that is great on imteriors.It can be used over any PPG basecoat colors.It is very scratch resistant and feels like smooth fabric,strange but cool. PPG Vibrance Soft Touch clear VC-5225 here is a link:
http://www.automotivepaintandequipment.com/pdf/vibrance/VB07_Soft%20Touch%20Clear%20P%20Bulletin.pdf

Thanks, mine is 1970 Baltic Blue Irid. # 169P21

where can I buy the pint of additive? or part number an name? Thanks

What I have done is replace the spray cap on the rustoleum 7220 texture black with the cap from a Sem paint cap that has a wider pattern . It was much easier to get a good wide pattern on the flat areas of the dash. If you really want to get a good pattern remove the paint from the can and put it in a cheap Harbor freight gun .

Sent you a PM on this

I have used Herb's parts' paints. I am very pleased with it. It takes patients with it.

And where does it take those patients ????

You need to pretend you're in a hospital....
Have a lot of patience....

Sorry. It was late when I responded to the thread last night. How does patience work for you?