EDELBROCK E STREET HEADS FOR 383

ARE THESE GOOD FOR A HI PO STREET ENG,ARE THEY CLOSED OR OPEN CHAMBER HEADS.

5090 is 75CC, 5093 is 84cc chamber size.

Yes they are closed chamber

Be sure your headers are angle plug friendly.

For exhaust manifolds, straight plugs are "preferred"(as in Stealth heads).

I ordered the 5090 , Fel Pro Gaskets and APR head bolts

Plan on running factory exhaust manifolds , factory valve covers and rocker arms , along with a Performer Rpm and either a Factory Carter Avs or a Edelbrock Avs on my 71 Bee

any distributor vaccum cannister clearence problems.

Zero issues with factory distributor and vacuum advance

Found this

NOTE: This head will need to be machined for clearance if used with a MSD Ready to Run distributor.

Need a question answered

I noticed the intake manifold bolt threads are open on these heads, drilled through

Should i use a sealant on my ARP Intake Bolts like Hylomar or Anti-Seize or ?

Dont want any oil puddles on valley pan

Also the Edelbrock / Fel Pro Blue Perma Torque Head Gaskets should bee installed dry correct ? And looking at these gaskets it shouldnt matter what side is up or down

Thanx Scott

Yes it makes sense to install bolts with a little sealer. Lots of different stuff will work, including good ol' Permatex. Hylomar for sure will work.

NO MATTER what others will say, those gaskets are designed to go on a clean surface, dry. All the sealing goop they need is already there on the surface of the gaskets. We aren't gasket experts (except Roadhazard). That's why they make the gaskets and we just buy them. On gaskets that do not have dowels to hold them in place I sometimes use small dabs of Hi-Tack to stick them in place.

IMHO those heads are THE heads for a mostly stock 383.

R.

Perfect

Thanx

Gaskets installed dry , and torqued to 70 foot pounds after two trips to Sears and there wonderful micro click 1/2" torque wrench that was a week out of warranty

Finally found someone (Took a young man who knew exactly what ratchet kit was needed after three older guys didn't have a clue) who could rebuild the ratchet head for me , even offered to pay for the kit , thru him some cash

Should of just stole a torque wrench from work

Anyways a lot of paint work and detailing before wrapping things up

Got you beat.....My first torque wrench is a Montgomery Ward and the ratchet head is messed up.

Got it for my 15th or 16th birthday. My mother asked what I wanted and I told her, torque wrench. It was and still is the single best present I've ever received.

I went on a rampage a few years ago and bought a bunch of Snap-On dial torque wrenches. They are really nice for doing more precise work, and as you're sneaking up on maximum torque and the bolt starts to give (yield) it is pretty obvious. But the micro click torque wrendh is my favorite for reassembly in a hurry or in tight spots.

R.

Now you guys have me worried. I installed my fel pro head gaskets for my trick flow heads with a coat of copper spray on each side.

Lots of people do that. It isn't necessary and I doubt it will cause any harm.

You're clamping the load down so hard it likely won't move unless you seriously abuse it.

Yes, it's better not to do it according to the gasket manufacturers but as you have already done it, no way would I take that engine apart again.
Put some miles on it!

Worry about something more important, like, will there be a "Dukes of Hazzard II" and who plays Daisy.

R.

PS: Speaking of Dukes of Hazzard, just try to imagine the show performed with a 2017 Charger. Boom goes the airbag as they land from the first jump.

Steel shim or composite/fiber? If composite/fiber WHY ????

No need to answer

Factory Valve Covers


Edit Post

Help

Been driving the car the last few days

Ran awesome until this aft , really like flipping a switch

Anyways history on the motor , engine was rebuilt about ten years ago , zero issues with motor , Speed Pro forged aluminum pistons .030 over - Mopar 284 - 484 cam set straight up
Motor ran flawless
Edelbrock intake - Carter AVS carb - Factory HP Manifolds
906 heads that had all the machine work done when engine was rebuilt

Anyways

Before installing these heads , I checked pistons where .027 in the hole , used the .038 Fel Pro Blue Head Gaskets from Edelbrock

Everything torqued proper
Car ran great the last few days
Coming home today after a cruise noticed a slight lifter or rocker arm tick at the gas station

Literally a mile from the house it let loose , I knew exactly what it was

Pulled the valve covers and the #4 cylinder - Intake valve pushrod had turned into a pretzel

Every other pushrod was perfect on all cylinders - New pushrods and factory shafts / rockers when engine was rebuilt years ago

Everything was kept the same except these new E Street Heads 75 cc
Installed the supplied rocker arm shaft studs supplied with the heads
Used all the factory valvetrain etc. everything looked great and was torqued down
Rocker arm shafts oil holes down and offset towards valves

What the hell Just happened , I am speechless

I would imagine i will have to pull the intake and pan to check the lifter and cam , correct ?

Do I have to pull these damn heads again ?

Motor never saw over 5500 Rpms the last few days just like the last ten years

Thanx Scott

V/P contact might be a possibility. If you have a borescope you could go in the plug hole & see. A valve might have been too tight in the guide & seized up.

I can steal a borescope from work on Monday

This sucks with a car show tomorrow and mostly sunny

Been working on this damn thing like forever when any free time from work

Did you install the heads OOTB?

coil bind on the spring? is it too much lift for the springs?

coil bind on the spring? is it too much lift for the springs?

YES

Springs are rated for .600 Max per Edelbrock ?

Running 284-484 Mopar Cam

Let me guess

Pull the heads and bring to a machine shop

What's Edelbrock going to say if an issue was found

Another thing

Bending that pushrod , would it have effected or strained the rocker arm shafts and or bolts / studs holding everything down torqued to 25 foot pounds per instructions

One of the bolts looked like it had shiny threads or filings , but the Edelbrock Heads have heli coils threaded in the rocker arm shaft attaching bosses and those threaded inserts looked brand new perfect from what I can tell

I don't know man

Got a car show with 10 moparts heading over and I have no f ing car

Guess rip everything apart again and start over

Don't know what else to do

Just frustrated , so much time between work and this , waiting for parts , powder coating , paint

A good service prep with valve job is needed on almost every aftermarket cylinder head. I never install any cylinder head OOTB. They need to be disassembled, inspected, corrected and cleaned. I have found Edelbrock heads with out-of-round valves and seats, guide clearance too tight and bad rocker shaft heli coils. The bad heli coils are generally on the right hand side of the head and need to be tapped or replaced so that the bolts will screw in by hand.

How good were these new pushrods?

Did you check to make sure there was no clearance issues with the pushrods and heads?

I had a set of EStreet heads come through the shop a year or so ago......had waaay too tight guide clearance.
edelbrock heads in general have less guide clearance than I prefer, but this one set was particularly tight.
It was because of the stem diameter in that instance.
Edelbrock seems to prefer the valves be .0005(half a thou) smaller than what typical for the industry.
.3410 is "normal", Edelbrock likes to use stems that are .3405, and they set the guide sizes based on the valves being .3405.
This one set of E Streets had valves with stems that were .3410....... so the guide clearance was .0005 less than normal(for Edelbrock). The intakes had like almost no clearance and the exhaust were about .0006.

The only way to know whether they're good or not......is to take them apart and check.

However, since it's all together, if the new pushrods are at all questionable......I'd change those first.

Thanx guys

I really appreciate all your insight and help , much appreciated

Should I pull the intake first and check the cam and lifter ?

Can't see much through these heads into the lifter valley

Anyways the rocker shaft and rocker arms look fine , also the valve and stem look fine also

Guy at the car show yesterday has the tools for me to pop the valve spring off on the head if needed , while the head is still on the car - Air in cylinder or the rope trick to see if the valve moves freely - Told me to rubber band the valve stem so once the spring is off it doesn't drop in the cylinder while I try to slide it

I can steal a Snap On Borescope from work today if needed

Also the pushrods are

Melling MPR - 321 they are marked and looked and rotated perfectly when I turned the motor over by remote switch prior to installing the intake pan last week - Clearance looked great and everything smooth , zero issues with clearance on head holes

Melling MPR - 321 Part Numbers

Also again how about the cam and lifter ? Can't really see in there

Thanx again


Edit - What new pushrods should I order ? And a new lifter ? should I pull the intake pan again

Those are OE replacement pushrods.

Not up to the task IMO.

I would call Smith Brothers and order some .080 wall heat treated pushrods that match the length of what you have there....... No oil holes.

If you get the borescope, pull the distributor out and look in the valley to see that the snap ring in the lifter is still properly in place.
If it is, you should be fine.

Can see the snap ring in the lifter through the pushrod hole
Looks fine buts that's all I can see is just the top of lifter

Brought a spring compressor home last night from a Mopar guy at the airport
Bolted it in place on the head and rotated it down and the valve moved freely up and down and sounded nice snapping back in place against the valve seat

Compared to other valves on the same head everything felt and went very smooth

Did a compression check on that cylinder while a friend was opening and closing that valve with the spring tool and the gauge read 180 #s

So I would assume things are fine

Snap On Videoscope is broke at work , new camera end ordered , just my luck yesterday

Anyways now have to order new pushrods , you said same factory length of 8.575 "

Wish I could see that cam lobe

Thanx Scott

I have no idea what the correct length should be for your motor.

I assumed you chose that length because it gave you the desired lifter preload.

Fast 68 I sent you a message

Cam lobe and lifter for that intake valve bent pushrod looked perfect when I pulled the intake and pan this morning

Same with all cam lobes and lifters and pushrods except

However the exhaust valve same cylinder , wiped out cam lobe and wiped out lifter , pushrod fine

I gots a major headache

Thanx Scott

Short Block Is At The Machine Shop

Exhaust Valve On That Same #4 Cylinder Kissed A Piston

That Was The Issue , One Exhaust Valve , One Small Mark In Piston

Heads Have Been Gone Through At Machine Shop , Everything Looks Great

Block Looks Excellent Per Machine Shop - Rebuilt .030 Over Twenty Years Ago
Flat Tops Forged Speed Pro


Anyways Time To Spend Some Money While Everything Is Out And Apart


Decided To Go With Mancini Racing 432 Stroker Kit - Have Not Talked To Them Yet As Machine Shop Will Bee Ordering Next Week

Running These Same 75 cc E Street Heads

Now It Comes Down To Diamond Pistons And Compression Ratio Kit Per CC From Mancini Website Stroker Kits Plus Cam Selection Before Ordering All The Parts And Kit

Looking At Comp Cams XE Series And Lunati Voodoo Cams
Filled Out Both There Cam Selection Cards Online Forms , Just Waiting To Here Back From Them

Street Car Performance

3:91 Gears

Auto Trans Also Getting Rebuilt - Turbo Action Valve Body - Street Auto

Just so you know - the rods in the mancini kit are heavy as - a full 130g each heavier than same spec 440 source ones - over 2 lbs extra flying about inside the block in total - Homework time!