Torque strap with spool mounts?

Is there any need for a torque strap when using a spool mount type k-frame?

that might depend on the quality of the "rubber" in the mt (there is some cheap stuff out there). If I was inclined to strap it I would not alter that just cuz I was going with spool mts.

I am using a DC k-frame to put a big block in my Dart. I picked up a set of NOS spool mounts and was just wondering if I should get a torque strap or not.

Ever since my friend in high school (1974?) had a mount brake in his Charger and drove the car forward into the back of my brothers Torino, it hit the back of that car three times. Good thing no one was standing there. I just put a strap or a chain on any big block.
Having the torque applied to the chassis, instead of the drive train is always a good thing.
Probably not needed most times, but there you are.

Replace the rubber bushings with poly in the spool mounts and it's not gonna move.

Agree with John

Even with completely worn out rubber in the spool mounts they cannot come apart, which is the reason for the torque strap. You can limit the movement with one, but nothing catastrophic will happen without it.

If your new spool mts have gaps in the "rubber" fill em in with some gasket maker like Permatex "the right stuff"

Schumacher Creative Services sells poly spool mounts. I used them on my small block and already have the set for the big block swap in the Spring.

If you already have rubber spool mounts you can buy poly inserts, did it with my 360 swapped Diplomat.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-1106g/overview/make/dodge

The riceburner crowd uses pourable polyurethane to fill in the pockets or to completely replace the rubber in a worn-out mount. It's available from Devcon in many different durometers. It is also available from Energy Suspension, they use a different manufacturer than Devcon. Do an online search for pourable polyurethane and you'll see there are several manufacturers. As many of the PPs are used to make molds for concrete shapes, find a product that does not include mold release agent. You want it to stick to your metal surfaces, at least I do.

Also review the Shore scale. That little letter, A or D, tells which of the testers to use for that material. IIRC Shore A is quite a bit wigglier than Shore D.

Finally, to do a really good job you need to have a vacuum pump. A Mityvac will work, although it's not ideal. A vacuum pump for an air conditioning serviceman would be about ideal.

www-cdr.stanford.edu/biomimetics/documents/material/PolyU/PolyU

I have researched this pretty thoroughly because my Taurus SHO has a bad engine mount and it's unique to that car. There are no more NOS for less than $200, and the parts store pieces aren't any better than the ones slagged here.

One last thing: I would not recommend using The Right Stuff for this task. A tube of Tremco Polyurethane Roof Sealer might possibly work, though.

R.

Not really needed with the spool mounts. There's no way for it to let go, at worst it can slop around a bit. If you're worried (or think it looks cool) put a piece of chain on.

As others have mentioned it is not necessary. I did run the Schumacher torque strap with factory spool mounts on my '73 340/416 Dart Sport. There is a noticeable difference in how the engine torques over (or doesn't) when the strap is installed.

I'm old so I can use the term "old school". Of course I could also use the term "Mickey Mouse" but it works and it doesn't cost much.

Shorthorse, you're not old. It's a matter how you feel is what matters to me. I'd call yourself "Seasoned"

Kinda funny.

When I was playing with 2.2 turbo cars in the early 90s we would fill the voids in the front mount with black RTV. Cheap, quick, and easy.

If you're worried about release agent residue on the mount you can rough up the openings with a small file.

If you've got tight clearance between the fan and a shroud, I would think the torque strap would be good insurance. It wouldn't take much movement from a bad mount to ruin a shroud.

windshield urethane works well also to fill the voids. i have used this several times. a tube that fits a small caulking gun is only around $22.00 here last time i bought any. [it's been a while though] i always find a use for what is left in the tube after filling the mounts, because the tube doesn't store well in my experience. or, if you have a local glass shop handy, they may squirt the holes closed for you at minimal cost.

I filled my spools mount in my Barracuda with 73-76 spool kmember in 1997.

I still have the same mounts the car with the 416 stroker I put in 5 years ago.

windshield urethane works well also to fill the voids. i have used this several times. a tube that fits a small caulking gun is only around $22.00 here last time i bought any. [it's been a while though] i always find a use for what is left in the tube after filling the mounts, because the tube doesn't store well in my experience. or, if you have a local glass shop handy, they may squirt the holes closed for you at minimal cost.
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I used to do that before replacement poly spool inserts were available. It works.