Power windows?

Anyone put power windows in their car? I've got a 71 Dart that I was tossing the idea of power windows around. Looking for suggestions for kits or parts to do this.

Yes I installed power windows in my 56 Plymouth Belvedere...and couldn't be happier that I did..Sorry I don't have pictures.. But I did it the back yard way , and they work great !!!I only did the front windows..I had a doner car with power windows.. ( 1987 Chry 5 th ave.).swapped regulaters with the power unit , I had to shorten the length of the geared arm and they work fine . done 7 years ago , still ticking..My white and gold 56 has been on here many times, you may have seen it.. but due to a computer crash and hacking I lost everything..It was a very easy job ..Sorry I can't be of more help..

I did ones like these on two cars and they work great. They are just a motor that actuates your stock manual crank regulators. They weigh next to nothing and have more torq than I can apply by hand with a manual crank. I used OEM power window switches and you would never know they're not stock except for the plastic caps that go over the hole in your door panel to cover the window crank splined stub. The kits I bough came with spacer bushings to space the regulator further into the door if you wanted to try to power window door panels without the hole although I never tried that.

Daytona Turbo, where did you buy the kit, do you have a part number? I'm very interested in electric windows for my '72 Duster.

If you ebay search "universal power window kit" scads of them show up.

Put power windows in my 72 Dart, came out of a 79 Cordoba.

Looks like the whole kit is only about 50 bucks. Any tips on installation? Does any of the factory window hardware have to come apart, anything dangerous? It also says it can be turned with a window crank if the electric motor were to break. Thanks.

All you do to install is remove your door interior panel, drill a couple holes in your door steel and bolt this thing right on. It comes with a variety of adapters to fit various manual crank window splines. You do not unbolt or touch any of the factory manual crank window regulator. If you google image search "universal power window install" you will see pics that make it clear. The drive cable is flexible so you can locate the motor where you have an opening in your door frame so it doesn't interfere with your interior panel.

I installed mine 10 years ago and still going strong. Back then, the basic model did not allow you to manually actuate the window with a crank, however the deluxe version did. I just got the regular version and have never had any sort of issues with it.

Great info thanks DaytonaTurbo!

Install video

Aftermarket Power Window Kit Installation

Thanks Aero426, looks like I'll be getting this for my car. Thanks to everyone else for the input.

several years ago i sold a member here this exact kit [if not, it was pretty darn close !]. they have come WAY down in price today from what they once were !

you gotta see the red green show where he makes the old dodge vans windows go up and down with a power drill----there must be some duct tape in there as well....

red green is my IDOL !

Update, I finally tried this kit on my Duster. No Bueno.
Motors don't have enough power to move the window, even after lubing everything.
I was really hoping these would work.

By the way, even if I hold the motor and track perfectly straight it doesn't work. Moves window real slow a couple inches and stops.

Something must be wrong. I installed a set of these on a 87 dodge daytona and the windows in that car were always tough to roll by hand. Even in winter when the windows would freeze to the seals they had enough jam to break them free where I had a tough time doing it by hand.

Have you tried hooking the motors directly to a known good battery? I wonder if you have an issue with a switch or wiring or bad motors.

install relays

I did use a relay. What brand motors did you use? Mine are cheapo ebay. Was only $40 for the whole kit for both doors.
I'm guessing the motors are junk.

Battery is known good too.

Also, They do not fit very well in an A-body. You can see how I had to mount it with the motor inside the door and the track on a pretty bad bind. Still doesn't work when I straighten the track out like I said earlier.

The only way to mount it straight would be to put it right where that big brace is inside the door, so that won't work.

Now you probably know why the price has come way down from what they used to be.
They used to work, and now they don't, but they will sell the kits to you for cheap!
The electric window motors draw a lot of current, are your wires big enough? The wires to my window motors were at least 14 gauge, and may have been 12 gauge.

Its tough to beat the OEM stuff. The last one I used the power assembly from a 5th Ave, and swapped it into the location of the original unit.

Most of the modern stuff uses a centered beam that attaches to the top and the bottom of the inner door frame. A plastic track slides on the beam. The motor pushes the track up, or pulls the track down. The window channel attaches to the track. Gene

Yes I tried big wires, tried with and w/o a relay. I even attached the electric motor directly to a fully charged car battery to eliminate all the wiring and the motor still seemed very weak.

I see that places like Gary Ball sell the same type of kit for triple the price. I wonder if they are better.
But I still didn't like how they fit in my door on a bind.

I was doing some thinking and the ones I did were much more expensive. And the ones I used had the two drive cables separate and not linked together like yours. I see Spal sells a kit that sure looks like the one I used, and it does not include switches, which I specifically remember the ones I bought did not include switches. Of course they were triple the price of what you paid, which I do remember them not being cheap.

Or you can take a C body power window assembly and swap arms from your A or B body onto the C body. I drilled mine and only added 1 lbs per front assembly.

Plus I used the C body harness.