Molar rear springs flatten out?

Has anybody had a problem with mopar Orem hemi leaf springs flattening out right out of the box? I bought a brand new set less than a month ago and they go almost straight when installed and the car is lowered onto its suspension? Everything else is correct any ideas? Spring should have an arch to it when installed and car is sitting on its suspension? I removed a set less than 10 years old that do the exact same thing and they were new when installed still had the paper labels on them the parts are correct for the car 1970 e body 440+6 any ideas? Don't want super stock springs, Are these just bad from the manufacturing company? Email me any suggestions atomdoug@gmail.com

Oem not Orem

yes, there are many accounts of replacement MOPAR springs being too flat newly installed

Flat is basicly correct. This is how Chrysler designed 'em and they explain it right here .

WOW! what an awesome source of information!!

And many accounts of Chevy Mechanics not understanding Mopar rear leaf suspensions, so they put in a triangulated 4 link. Cause that's what the house of Mullet does.

My springs are bicuspids.

I had thought about this but then thought WHY?

What can this do that caltrac/monos cant?

https://www.reillymotorsports.com/streetlynx.shtml

Flatten you wallet

While the flattened springs may be a good thing . . . the Mopar Performance Springs that were sold as HD (For 70 B Body), that I bought and installed on my 70 Sport Satellite . . . were ok when just new. But after 4 years and 9k miles . . .they were actually starting to REVERSE curve !!! . . . they had sagged well over 5.5" !! Took the original springs and had them re-arched and one new leaf added . . . like the car so much better !!! Yup, sitting back up 5.5" higher !!! Not too worried about side sway - have also installed rear sway bar when I put it all together . . . .

Haha, I got it.

Had the OE springs rearched on my kids 62 300 in 1999.Had an extra inch arch and one leaf added.He sold it last year and they sat better than any new springs you can buy.Car had tons of miles on it and he raced it a lot also.Rocky

That is what I have read and heard. The metal used in the old springs was of a better quality. The tempering processes used were like many other components Chrysler made: Built to last. Sure, the windows may have rattled and the interiors looked cheap but these cars had solid mechanical engineering.

Lol, I think he has a case of autocorrect blues. Orem instead of OEM and Molar.
Craig

I'm not sure how I remembered that word. I'm not a dentist.

Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?

No, Sir...
Did i miss the joke?

Just clicked on the link. I hope the yellow Dart on that page doesn't have that suspension in it!

That settles it; I'm getting mine re-arched, not buying new ones.

Ok yes mopar not molar with the entire leaf springs and shackles all stock installed as factory there is only about 3 inches of room between front of the top of the third member and the floor pan, hardly room for a stock snubber is that correct?

From a TV commercial.

I wish I could find somewhere in my area that re-arched springs. I've searched and found none so always ended up buying new.

My "Hencho in Mehico" Superstock springs 456/457 flattened out and have a reverse arch in the rear after only 1 season of use (abuse). The car has probably dropped 3" in ride height.

They worked fine for a best of 1.54 60 ft. earlier in the season then became junk.

Now they wrap in an S shape so bad it killed the rear u-joint at the end of the season.

Cal-Trac bars and mono's comin' up...

I should really know by now to NEVER buy anything with the MP label..

GY3 you have any pics of the arch in the springs?
i'm curious, as i think the springs would work ok on my car...i don't have a 500 inch BB.
but i don't want the rear of the car super high in the air....

No, but I can get some. It may be later in the week when it warms up...

My 2 year old MP Mexican special junk Super Stock springs have flattened and sagged about 2" which has caused the rear shackles to lean towards the rear of the car moving the rear of the springs in the same direction.

So one time last summer when I hammered on my 440 speed Challenger stretching out the springs then let off the gas, the springs(yes both sides) decided to take a bite out of my rear valance.

Thankfully there was no damage but I had to add a clamp on the rear segment of the springs to keep this from happening again until I get a chance to replace the junk springs.

As to the "flat spring" issue - spring rate and mounting points normally dictate ride height. IMO if the mount points are in the stock location, the car at ride height should be in the middle 1/3 of the shock travel, and preferably right in the middle. A car almost sitting on the bump stops defiantly has an issue, and most likely it is not enough spring rate. Personally I like to see about 2-2 1/2" of arch between the center of the mounting bolts and the surface of the center pin at ride height, and I adjust my mount points and/or spring rate accordingly. And also IMO the replacement springs offered today are not the same quality as the OEM's were.


That said - the sooner you realize that any spring, by nature, is designed to store and release energy, and really doesn't have any business mounting a drive axle to a (performance) car, the farther ahead you will be. Anytime you look at a successful leaf sprung car, you will see that they have eliminated the spring action from the front segment - be it Caltracs, SS springs, slapper bars, spring clamps, etc. Can leaf springs be made to work? Yes, usually at the expense of ride quality, because again - you have to stiffen the front segment to eliminate spring deflection/wrap-up. Leaf springs are a cost effective way to mount a drive axle, not an efficient one.