Thrust block, Pin, or button removal

I am told that I am pre-loading my green bearings because of rear end housing is 1/8 narrower than stock and I must remove the thrust thing that's in there. I need info on a direction to take on the removal of this thrust thing or can I shorten these axles.

Eaton customer service told me to get a long pair of needle nose pliers and yank them out. This advice was for a Detroit Locker in an 8-3/4" 742 housing.

It depends on what style sure-grip you have. The cone sure-grips and stock 489/741 open cases are going to be a PITA.(not sure about open 742 cases) Just a couple weeks ago I tried removing the thrust block from an open 741 case. I tapped out the roll pin and tried to remove the shaft so the thrust block would come out. The shaft hits the ring gear. I guess the ring gear needs to be removed first. Luckily I did some measuring and I had just enough clearance so I could mock up the rear end while leaving the thrust block in place. When I rebuild the center section, I'll remove it for good.

If you have a clutch style sure-grip, you should be able to remove the button with a punch.

I have the clutch type power lock in a 489 case. I can't find any info on what it even looks like. The good thing is that the third member is on my work bench. I just don't know what I'm lookin for.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/13.html

Lots of great info in the tech archives. The above link has a picture of the thrust button you need to remove.

Just happened to have mine on the bench to replace the clutches. This is a 742 unit. However the pins are the same and look like this.



And they are located here in the center of the diff:



You can remove them by using a punch or by just reaching in with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulling them out. If they're stuck you'll need to use the punch.

Thanks man, I'm gonna take a look at that when I get home to see what it takes to get them out.

Thank You for the info..