Pushrod length...adjuster depth ok?

Building a 512 stroker with TF heads, Voodoo hydraulic roller and matching lifters, crane gold roller rockers. I just measured my pushrod length and have the tool locked down.

Do you guys care to look at my adjuster depth and tell me if it's ok as far as not too long or too shallow? This is also set with the pre-load.

Also, any recommendations to where I can send the tool for making my pushrods?

Thanks

Call Crane tomorrow morning and ask them how many threads they recommend showing on those rocker arms
I would probally use them wihout calling, but I do make mistakes still, now and then

How many threads are showing? I'm assuming all the other clearance checks are OK: cup to rocker (where you are at)/retainer to rocker/coil bind/PV clearance/retainer to seal/rocker side to side position on shaft/wipe pattern/consider the Hughes' wanting the pushrod/adj screw in a straight line viewed from the front at 50 or 60% of full lift (depends if SB or BB)/pushrod tunnel clearance

There are 2 threads showing. I'm using d dish pistons with close chamber heads. Haven't checked PV clearance yet...was waiting on the pushrods and already have an adjustable roller lifter. Thanks

The pushrod length is not going to make an difference on your P/V to valve clearance, at least nothing notable. You can check P/V clearance with what you have there now.

2 threads is good , I would replace the springs in between the rockers with spacers and set side clearance at about .015 ...

All I have right now is just the wimpy checking tool (I don't have a set of checking springs). I do have the adjustable roller lifter so I was going to use that with the new pushrods when I get them and check the PV clearance and wipe pattern on the valve stem tip. I'm not sure how to check the PV clearance without a real pushrod or swapping in checking springs. I would be afraid that the pushrod checking tool would bend under the pressure from the spring.

Thanks again.

You need to take out the springs will be running and put in checking springs so you can push the valve till it contacts the piston once you bring the piston to the point where checking is done. You can't check piston to valve if you can't move the valve, checking springs required.

What is an ADJUSTABLE Roller lifter ?

Hughes makes a roller lifter with a screw in/out center. You use a micrometer to measure the lifter you plan on running and then you can adjust the height of the lifter cup to match (with pre-load figured in) and then use that instead of swapping in checking springs.

That makes no sense, how does that tell you how far the valve is from the piston?

To me that sounds like a tool to use in place of a HYDRAULIC roller lifter so you can dial in/measure a cam without having to swap in a checking spring. Same thing as using a soild lifter ( or a welded up hyd.) in place of a hydraulic lifter on a flat tappet cam.

To check piston to valve you have to push the valve TOWARD the piston.

What is an adjustable roller lifter? Last time I heard about adjustable lifters was talking about flathead fords. Did you mean hydraulic roller lifter?

I got my checking springs at True Value Hardware. They cost a couple of bucks each.

R.

I'm not sure what doesn't make sense. It's an adjustable roller lifter...it's a tool. You just measure your lifters with pre-load figured in, mock up the tool to replicate your measurements, drop it in, set the pushrod and slowly turn the crank... It's much easier, for me anyway, to not have to deal with the springs.

Since the engine is timed and is running, why would this not accurately simulate how close the valves come to the piston? The valve timing is already set.

How do you know how close the valve is to the piston?

Here watch this , maybe it will tell you what you are supposed to be doing ... note checking springs ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifoGVT4G0m0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXzO9u93-n8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz7Fqo_oufU

I'm using modeling clay, ok...play dough, on top of the piston. I guess I'm not sure why that method can't be used to check PV clearance and the wipe pattern at the same time since it's exactly the set up that will be there when the engine is running.

play dough will work with your heavy springs if the hyd lifter cup is locked at the preload distance below the retainer clip that you will be running. I use a pair of junk hyd lifters locked solid at that dimention.

You never said how you planned to check your P/V clearance, if you had I'd have only 1 post in this thread.

You just talked about the Hughes tool and how it would tell you what the P/V clearance was, which it would not.

What JohnRR said, I would suggest a pair of light checking springs, they make it so much easier to do all of the clearance checks needed in this area of building in addition to the degreeing. confirm everything is copacetic & if it ain't, work with it till it is