Proform Carburetor

Hi All,

I have a 68 Charger with a 440 stroker that I am looking to replace the carburetor on. I had heard a lot of good things about Proform, and was looking at the 67205 which is 750 cfm, has vacuum secondaries and no choke (where I live it's warm pretty much year round). - Proform 67205

Anyone have anything negative to say about this carb, or is it a fine choice? Also, on the order page from jegs is says "New designed throttle lever with integrated Ford A/T kickdown, GM 700-R4 mounting holes and ability to mount brackets for Chrysler vehicles (black series)", so it sounds like I'll need some extra brackets, or maybe I can just take off what is already on my existing holley?

Thanks for any feedback!

Had two Proform 750's with a sheet metal tunnel ram intake on a 500 inch motor. Jetted for the cam and never touched them again for 6 years.

I had a Proform 750 DP on my 340 for a few years. It ran fine - hit really hard when accelerating.

I currently have a Edelbrock on the car because I realized that I never took the car to the track, so having a carb without a choke and 50cc accelerator pumps was probably overkill.

I might put it back on though - the E-brock just doesnt give me the kick in the pants that the Proform/Holley did.

If you are running a stroker motor is 750 big enough for your wants/needs?

had one on my 360 dart motor.. it came through with the wrong air bleeds. i drilled them to the size they were supposed to be. other then that the thing was awesome.. car ran like a fuel injected car.. no bogs,no hesitation as soon as you hit the loud pedal it went.. nothing bad to say about it.. mine was a double pumper 4 corner idle and all the fancy stuff..lol

A vacuum secondary carb on a 500" stroker?

Nothing like neuturing that thing!

Thanks for all the replies!

I should've said I don't take the car to the track, however I do like to stomp on the gas at a stoplight if there is an import next to me.
So it mainly gets kinda conservative use, but I do get on it from time to time.

So perhaps 750 cfm is too small? The only drawbacks of mechanical secondaries is slight/moderately worse gas mileage? Also, if I change to mechanical secondaries, should I also change my distributor to mechanical advance?

And the blurb in the description about needing some extra brackets for kickdown should be no big deal?

Thanks for the help... I really appreciate it. I'm kind of a newb with carburetors, most of my experience is with TBI.

The 750 will give you good throttle response around town due to the smaller bores than what you'd find in a monster carb.

It's hard to get some people to understand that you're not looking for a max effort engine. When you say stroker their eyes light up and they go on the quest for 800 hp.

You can build a fun powerful engine without giving up good street manners.

Go with your plan for a street car with good manners. Tuning will be easier and it'll be more forgiving on the street with the mild carb. A DP or 1050 cfm monster is not needed in this situation and can actually make the car less enjoyable to drive despite a theoretical 20 hp improvement.


Here's the throttle linkage they refer to. It's a very common part.

Lots of bad info out there.

A properly tuned DP will NOT get worse mileage than a performance choking vacuum secondary carb. Most of the mileage is how you use your right foot!

I haven't used one of the entire carbs, but I have used some of the individual parts on other carbs (metering plates, main body, and throttle body) and the parts worked well. I like the adjustability of the screw-in restrictions in the metering plates.

As for carb size, the 750 is fine for street driving.
I had a Holley Avenger 770 on my 505" stroked 440 before changing to EFI. The 505 is a street engine with a mild cam, comp XR286HR-10 (236/242 duration @ 0.050")
The car was only slightly quicker at the track with the EFI compare to the 770 cfm carb.

A vacuum secondary carb is friendlier on the streets than a DP. The DP was designed for racing, not cruising. That's where it performs best.
The VS carb was designed for street use. There is nothing wrong with putting one on the street.
Total hp with properly tuned VS and DP carbs of the same size will not be appreciably different. The differences will be noticed during aggressive throttle movements.

The power difference I referred to would be between different size carbs.

Thanks for all the great info!

A couple final questions... Is 750 cfm large enough for a 440 stroker which gets mostly mild mannered street use with the occasional WOT?

If I opt for a Proform 750 with vacuum secondaries, they offer two choices... the street or race series. Would there be some benefit to getting the race series which offers the following features, or would they be unnecessary for my needs and just cause me headaches?

* High-performance Race-Series, hand assembled in the U.S.
* Utilizes the Proform carburetor high-flow main body
* Adjustable, screw-in air bleeds and high-performance down-leg boosters
* Maximum air flow: no air horn, choke tower, or choke control
* Centered on Proform billet throttle base plate
* Adjustable secondary air flow cam bracket and welded throttle shaft
* Button torx head throttle plate screws
* Power valve blow out protection and slip link mechanical secondary linkage
* Assembled with Proform billet metering blocks
* Changeable idle feed restriction

Myself I would run a bigger carb then the 750 on a BB stroker and I do. I use a Holley 850 DP on my 493 and actually I feel it would be faster with even more carb. But it has run 10.70's in full street trim through the full exh with the 850 DP. I love the DP carb on my car and most cars but there is nothing wrong with running the vac secondary carb on your car if you like it. I would just run a larger one if it were me. The vac secondary can work fine for you. Myself I like the double pumper carbs since I like to race my car at the track sometimes but you can use either the DP or vac carb on your car. Ron

EXACTLY, I had a guy on drag week, Ray(sixpackgut)even get 16+ mpg`s w/a 1050 Dominator I "fixed" for him and a few others as well. I don`t build/modify VS carbs myself only DP`s but I can and do get em damn near efi stable w/clean plugs n oil...........And agree a 750`s WAY small even for a streeter............THUMPERCARBS......760-900-3895

Does the OP want a carb that he can just bolt on and go with little or no tuning?

If that is the goal and 750 CFM is the target size, then the Street Demon 750 is the absolute best carb for him. The tune is as good as anything on the market for his preferences and it has design features that no other carb on the market today has. Features that matter and deliver real driveability improvements.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/inside-the-new-street-demon-750-cfm-carburetor/

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=112118.0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3zLcHWiq8o

Bull! A properly tuned double pumper will work as well as vacuum secondary. How you drive it will be the difference.

OP isn't against tuning, just isn't nearly as experienced at it as everyone here.

I'm not set on 750 CFM at all, if the board thinks that's clearly too small... no problem at all, I'm completely open to a larger one. That Street Demon does look pretty good though.

I guess I should have just asked what everyone thought the best carb is for a 440 stoker with Edelbrock performer intake, and 3.55 gears that gets mostly mild mannered driving with the occasional WOT (for someone with limited tuning experience, but totally open to it).

Again... I really appreciate the help.

More info would be helpful.
What size stroker?
What compression ratio?
What camshaft?
What fuel (Pump gas? race gas? octane? E85?)
What transmission Manual or automatic?
If automatic, what stall speed converter?
What rear gear and tire size?
Is the intake a performer RPM or the smaller performer?

The deal with using a large carb, is it has less restriction and will make more power a WOT, but when driving on the street at 30 MPH, you will still be in the transition circuit, not the main metering circuit. This is not really a big deal if you know how to tune the transition circuit, but it is not something most people do.

A smaller carb will get into the main metering circuit sooner (more throttle angle at the same speed) and usually it is just tuned with a jet change.

What about the FiTech TBI EFI? Not that much more expensive and you don't have to pay extra for all the carb tuning parts (jets, bleeds, restrictions, power valves, accelerator pump cams, and nozzles, ect.) and gaskets.

Are you going to tune it for him?
Are you going to go back and retune it every time the weather changes?

Instead of having a more difficult to tune carb he can run a VS and have an easier time.

It's a street cruiser. The VS isn't going to hurt a thing.

It is likely that I will agree with many of the other respondents here that a 750 is a bit on the small side for a "440 stroker". But it would help a lot if we had the actual displacement of the engine and a couple of other pieces of info, too. Like which heads and what are the cam specs.

You can get happy with either a vac secondary carb or mech secondary carb. The difference will probably be how much "tuning" one or the other will need to run the combo the best the way you drive.

A couple more questions; how much "tuning" are you comfortable with? Do you have a wide band? And how much have you budgeted for a carb?