Moog or PST?

Doing a full rebuild on the front end of the 70', both Moog and PST offer complete kits. Anyone have experience with the parts, fit, value of either kit? I've used individual components from both outfits, seemed fine, just no experience with the full kits. Thanks.

moog quality has seemed to have gone down hill the last several years. my experience has been with ball joints on a 72 duster and tierod ends on a 70 super b. the boots don't last very long until they split. we will see how long the joints them selves last. not holding my breath. i have just recently read on here about "pro forged" [?] brand. might have been on the handling forum.

If you get all of your part numbers and search them through ebay, you can get some great deals on moog stuff...

So far I have good luck with the parts...

I just bought all Moog stuff to rebuild an A-body front end. I used Moog when i put together the front end on my '70 15 years ago. No problems in 15 years - although low mileage.


How many miles will we drive our classic cars after restoration?

I have always used Mood or TRW for my suspension pieces. The Moog now come with "Made in China" tags. Time will tell if they are still as good as ever.

And RockAuto is nearly impossible to beat on Moog prices. One example; the pitman arm for my car was nearly $80 at the local O'Reilly's. The same one at RockAuto was $38 before the 5% discount code on RetailMeNot and shipping.

I have always used Moog with great results, lately folks have been talking about the quality but personally cant think of any troubles I've had with them. I have built 5 or 6 complete front ends in the last few years with Moogs, I did replace one set of lower control arm bushings due to what I thought to be checking. They had been installed for a couple of years but not put on the car. I found it during an inspection of the parts for final assemble so I replaced them just for GP. I agree with Rock Auto, you can get some things on close out at killer dealers if you get lucky.

I used 1 PST kit years ago (as in 20), they bushings started falling apart in a year or so of driving. I promptly ripped it apart and isntalled Moog which are still good today, same storage and usage conditions.

Here is a list of Moog part numbers I pick up from somewhere.
________________________________________
View: Balljoints

Control Arm Bushings

Strut Rod/Sway Bar Bushings

Pitman/Idler Arm and Bushing

Tie Rod Ends


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UPPER BALL JOINT P/N
HP STD.
57-64 All exc. A body K720A K772
65-73 C body " "
65-79 B body " "
70-74 E body " "
73-76 A body " "
76-80 F body " "
79-81 R body " "
77-89 M body " "
80-83 J body " "
60-62 Valiant/Lancer K706 K704
62-72 A body " "
60-75 Imperial K778
74-78 C body "
LOWER BALL JOINT P/N
L R
62-64 All exc. A body K781 K783
65-72 B body " "
70-74 E body " "
73-76 A body " "
65-73 C body K7003 K7005
62-72 A body w/o disk brakes K785 K787
65-72 A body w/ disk brakes K7021 K7023
60-62 Valiant/Lancer K701 K703
73 B body (Threaded Fit) K719 K719
73-79 B body (Press Fit) K7069 K7069
76-80 F body " "
79-81 R body " "
77-89 M body " "
80-83 J body " "
60-66 Imperial K727 K727
67-75 Imperial K7025 K7025
74-78 C body " "

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UPPER CONTROL ARM KIT P/N
Shafts Std Bushings Eccentric Bushings
62-64 All exc. A body K7030 K408 K7103
65-72 B body " " "
70-74 E body " " "
60-62 Valiant/Lancer " " "
62-76 A body " " "
65-73 C body K7036 K7006 K7104
60-66 Imperial K7028 K325
67-73 Imperial NR K7044
73-79 B body K7105 K7058
79-81 R body " "
74-78 C body NR K7070
74-75 Imperial NR "
76-80 F body K7091 K7084
77-89 M body " "
80-83 J body " "
LOWER ARM BUSHING KIT P/N

60-62 Valiant/Lancer K790
62-64 All exc A body K791
65-72 B body "
62-76 A body "
70-74 E body "
60-66 Imperial K318
57-62 Chrys. Saratoga, New Yorker "
63-64 Chrysler New Yorker K317
62-64 Chrysler Windsor, Newport, 300 "
67-73 Imperial K7043
65-73 C body K7007
74-78 C body K7071
74-75 Imperial "
73-79 B body K7059
79-81 R body "
76-80 F body K7097
77-89 M body "
80-83 J body "

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STRUT ROD KIT P/N
Improved Standard
57-65 B body K7039 K354
57-64 C body " "
57-66 Imperial " "
66-72 B body (+73-74 Police/Taxi) K7026 K7016A
70-74 E body " "
67-73 Imperial " "
65-73 C body K7027 K7019A
60-62 Valiant/Lancer K7040 K355
62-72 A body " "
73-76 A body K7068
73-74 B body (to 10-19-73) "
74-79 B body (from 10-19-73) K7085
74-79 C body "
SWAY BAR KIT P/N
Bushings End Link
66-69 B body K5110
65-72 A body "
70-72 B body K5241 K440
70-74 E body " "
73-76 A body " "
65-73 C body K7061, K7064 NR
73-74 B body (exc. 74 Police) " " "
74 B body Police K7062, K7064 "
75-79 B body " " "
67-75 Imperial (7/8" bar) K8258 K5110
74-78 C body (7/8" bar) " "
71-75 Imperial (1" bar) K7096 K5110
74-78 C body (1" bar) " "
76-80 F body (1-1/8" bar) K7108 K7087
80-89 M body (1-1/8" bar) " "
80-83 J body (1-1/8" bar) " "
77-79 M body K7092 "
76-80 F body (exc. 1-1/8" bar) " "
80-89 M body (exc. 1-1/8" bar) " "
80-83 J body (exc. 1-1/8" bar) " "

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PITMAN ARM
Manual Power
60-62 Valiant/Lancer K789 K789
62-64 All exc. A body K780 K780
65-70 B body " "
71-72 B body K7102 K7102
70-74 E body " "
62-66 A body K7020 K7020
67-72 A body (exc 383) K7074 K7074
73-76 A body K7075 K7076
73-79 B body " "
65-73 C body K7032 K7072
67-75 Imperial K7024 K7024
74-78 C body K7121 K7121
76-80 F body K7100 K7101
77-89 M body " "
80-83 J body " "
IDLER ARM & BUSHING
Arm Bushing
65-68 C body (thru 4-1-68) K7014 K7017
67-68 Imperial " "
63-66 Imperial (exc. 64-66 Convertible) K7009 "
68-73 C body (from 4-1-68) " K7046
69-75 Imperial " "
74-78 C body K7073 "
60-62 Valiant/Lancer K7012 NR
62-64 All exc. A body K779 NR
62-66 A body K414 NR
67 A body K7022 NR
65-67 B body " NR
68-70 B body K7041 K7045
70-74 E body " "
68-70 A body K7042 "
71-72 A body " K7049
73-76 A body K7086 "
76-80 F body " "
77-89 M body " "
80-83 J body " "
71-72 B body K7041 "
73-79 B body K7066 "

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TIE ROD ENDS
Size Sleeve Outers Inners
62-64 All 9/16" ES319S ES319R ES319L
62-69 B body " " " "
62-69 A body " " " "
60-62 Valiant/Lancer " " ES277RL ES278RL
70-72 B body " " ES401R ES401L
70-74 E body " " " "
70-76 A body " " " "
73-79 B body " ES430S " "
76 F body " " " "
77-80 F body " ES2016S " "
77-89 M body " " " "
80-83 J body " " " "
62-63 Imperial 11/16" ES500S ES321RL ES669, ES670
64-66 Imperial " " ES335R, ES335L ES693, ES694
67-73 Imperial " " " " ES372RL
65 C body (<3-1-65) " " ES352R ES352L
65-73 C body (>3-1-65) " ES355S " ES355RL
74-78 C body " ES440S " "
74-75 Imperial " " " "

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e-mail me and I can send you the list on a better format later. My member name at yahoo.

I bought a rebuild kit from PST. When I complained the strut rod bushings were too big, PST said it was my problem and to use a saws-all and cut them down. Also their cam bolts are the wrong finish.

In the photo, factory originals on the left, PST on the right.

Thanks for the excellent responses! Hard to say how things will hold up down the road with the offshore stuff but it''s getting hard to avoid. Good point about our cars, not so high mileage these days. Sounds like Rock Auto is the place to start, thanks.
,

Gripe, Gripe, Gripe about Moog. Yet they still have a lifetime warranty on suspension parts.

Do you really think that PST makes their own stuff? Get real.

I don't like Moog because the boots split? Replace the boots! Polyurethane boots are out there, maybe you can get them from PST.

It's tiring to keep hearing about quality going downhill and the Chinese taking over the world while the cars using the Chinese stroker kits and heads go faster.

R.

My recent Moog purchases came through Amazon.com. I like Amazon - Rockauto is good as well, if the shipping charges arent crazy.

Certain parts I will not buy from an off-shore plant and suspension parts fall in that category.

From PST 'customer service'...


We have parts made in the USA as well as in Turkey, Israel, and a few Asian countries. But it depends on the part. I would have to answer your questions on a "by part basis". For example our torsion bars, stiffening plates, tubular control arms adjustable and non, strut rods, polygraphite bushings and pivot shafts are made in the USA. This is just examples so there are more. These are the ones that I could think of off the top of my head. Now the parts the we do have made overseas are done by the same manufacturers that TRW and Moog use. Regardless of where our parts come from we q/c all and all are covered by our same warranty.



(Got 20+ years going on urethane pieces from Just Suspension...

Zero issues...


For a driver, no way I'd go OEM 'rubber')...

If you have any questions about our products that we provide please let me know as I would be happy to answer them. All products that we sell carry the same warranty whether they are made state side or oversea.

Thanks
James From
Performance Suspension Technology
1-800-247-2288
Ext 316

O'Reilly's around here will match any ones price and offers a lifetime warranty.

I am a commercial account with O'Reilly's and my son worked for them for a couple of years while he was going to college. So, I know the guys there. I always ask them in these kind of situations what they want to do; would they rather have the sale by matching the price or would they rather not match.

Sometimes they will prefer to match but when I walk in with a list of RockAuto prices that will cost them a couple hundred dollars, then the store is better off letting the sale go. Of course, I could force the issue, but it is the same money to me and I maintain a good working relationship with O'Reilly's management by being flexible. And they do help me out when they can.

The local stores wont match Rock Auto prices either.

Wanted to use my original SAE 7/16-14 thread hex tri-slot nuts on Moog upper ball joints. Nope. Metric M12.

I went with PST for my front end rebuild except for both sides of the torsion bar because of the issue kentj340 notes. I've heard issues with using poly on the torsion bars as well so I felt that would be better served using rubber. That said, I am very pleased with the feel of the upgraded suspension.

To the best of my knowledge no Mopar torsion bar uses any bushings on either end. Do you mean the strut rods? If so, they only use a bushing on one end.

Last time I needed a set of upper ball joints for a control arm rebuild project I found some leftover NOS ones on Ebay. If it were not for finding those I would have normally went with Moog parts. I did buy Moog offset control arm bushings a few years ago and they still looked ok.

I'd wager he's referring to the grease boot on the T-Bar.

I thought he was referring to the lower control arm bushings!!

I did mean the strut rod. Sorry, it's been a little while. I went with moog rubber on both ends. Kent's pic above and a few other problems with going with poly is why I chose that.

Moog joints, PST bushings.
I wouldn't condemn a joint just because of a grease boot... I often blow them anyway within the 1st oil change or 2 after installing them. Though I do grease mine every time I change oil