Crank drilled for 4sp.... how deep?

So the crank on my 70RR was damaged so machine shop obtained a auto one and drilled it for 4sp application...
How deep should it have been drilled...?? I appears from a crude dowel type measurement its a little short.
First attempt to install trans it would not mate up to bellhousing... but I need to verify the clutch is centered correctly as well..
Boy I don't want to have to disassemble and take long block back....

1 3/4

you could pull the pilot bushing out then hand drill the hole deeper (dont have to be dead on) for the shaft to fit with clearance then use the MP roller bearing ( I dont have the app/part # for it offhand) in the larger recess just outside of the hole in the crank flange where a TC nub would normally fit for support. that'd save you a teardown.

I had an Eagle crank that wasn't finished for the input and missed that on assembly. Made about a 5/8" cut & bevel on the new 18 spine input and carried on with a bushing 1800 miles ago.

The factory bushing is 7/8" long and the tip of the input shaft pilot extends about 3/8" past it so, if they only bored the crank deep enough for the bushing, it needs to go deeper.

Something I can do with hand drill..?? Or take it back....

Another way;

Bolt the flywheel on.

Rent a small magnetic drill press, the flywheel will act as the 'table' that the electromagnet will stick to when activated.

Set it up, double check everything & drill away.

I know one guy that was able to do it with the engine in the car.

It takes a lot of force to drill a hole that big in forged steel. If the engine is together then the magnetic drill press idea might work. If the crank is loose on the bench then I'd take it to a shop and have them drill it for you.

What I thought... engine is together...but wont be hard ( or too hard) to strip it down and take it down there....

You can also cut some off of the end of the tranny shaft but I don't like that option very well since then it messes up the input shaft a bit. It might still work for you, just depends how much interference you have. If it is only a small amount I might take it off the tranny but then if you ever swap transmissions you have the same problem again.

This a show car which wont be driven a lot...don't see me changing tranny... that option would be less painful... how would you take it off..???

I am always on the side of do it right... grrrr

Plan to go talk to machine shop tomorrow....

If you want to cut the input shaft you can do it with a cut off wheel and bevel with an air grinder. I have an MP bearing for the conversion sealed in bag for the 23 spline I'll sell ya cheap. Pm me

I don't understand why anyone would want to use the old brass bushing instead of the new style roller bearings. Maybe some just don't know. Once you get the crank drilled enough, buy a roller bearing type bearing for a magnum engine. Your transmission will thank you.

Goose would that be the same one that Bee has?

I am one that doesn't know...???

Here.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=447751&cc=1354137&jnid=607&jpid=4
It's so easy....
R.

I asked an old friend who was an engine builder, racer and restorer. He said, "we pull bushings out of 60 year old motors that are still in great shape. They're self lubricating and one solid piece. Why would you replace that with a sealed. Lubricated unit that has a bunch of wearing parts?"

Because probably your crank needs to be drilled and reamed to size to fit that Oilite bushing, and that is done in a machine shop. Doesn't work so well if you don't have q machine shop handy or the crank's already in the engine when you decide to go manual transmission.

I'd say more than half of the cars talked about on this board go less than 5,000 miles every year. Given the age group many of us are in, that means we'll be dead before that complicated component needs to be replaced.

Keep in mind that the pilot bearing or bushing only sees motion when the clutch is disengaged.

R.

...now 1973 miles ago.