Electric fuel pump with a carbureted engine

I am sure this has been discussed before, but what would be a good electric fuel pump for a mild 340 with a Holley Avenger 670?

It's in a Duster with a 4 speed and 3.91 rear gears.

Thanks!

post all you want bro. I think carter has a street pump but wait for the guys that know for sure. In my exp some pumps put out more than they say plus alot of of fuel psi gauges ain't dead on accurate. Sumpin to keep in mind if you have a flooding/high fuel level situation on down the line. Me I like a bypass line back to the tank with a Holley low psi reg regulating a return line T'd close to the carb inlet rather than regulating the fuel TO the carb inlet. keeps the fuel cooler too

The Carter pump that can be used without without a regulater is a good pump

Carter's P4070 Street Pump is the one.

Available at a speed shop or discount catalog near you.

R.

I had a high pressure Mechanical Hemi race pump on my '64 Polara and it made too much pressure for a street car. It really was a NASCAR pump (they don't allow electrics) and again another lesson learned. With today's fuels an electric pump with a reasonable output is needed to combat vapor lock. It is a delicate balancing act. The Carter would be a good choice or a Holley pump with a return line.

How do I run a return line if the tank isn't set up for it?

You might be able to just buy a new sending unit that has a provision for a return built into it.

Is there another way? I just bought a new sending unit. I can't send it back. It's been too long.

Also, is it a quiet pump?

Good choice, don't need anything larger if you must go electric.

A person can pull the sender & drill a hole in the circular flat & solder in a nipple

Thanks for the replies. I haven't installed the tank (I bought a new one) or the sender yet. Is it possible to install a nipple on the filler tube, or is that not a good location?

Yes! I finally got rid of that problem, running terribly for the first couple minutes after a heat soak start, by switching to that Carter electric pump.

I have a Mallory 140 with the regulator. I have a 383.
I put the pump right in front of the tank between the tank and the differential. It is mounted on the rail near the tank with a piece of rubber between the bracket and the rail. (rubber was cut from an exhaust hanger from Autozone). I put the bracket as low as I could go. I used some small metal brackets I found at the hardware store to extend the pump lower. The pump bottom is about level with the bottom of the tank.

I also have a in-line fuel filter (Holley 100 micron) before the pump and a regular 40 micron filter before the regulator. The regulator is mounted in front of the carb with a bracket from AED.

The Mallory is quiet and the rubber helps absorb any vibration. The only issue with the Mallory is the metal threads are really delicate.
I had to send my first pump back. The aluminum is real soft and the threads are not made well. I had a leak the first time. I found the threads falling apart on the first pump. The second one was fine and does not leak.

mine is a dead head setup. I do not have a return line. It does fine and I have had no issues with vapor lock or any issues with pump overheating.
I do have the larger fuel lines and a 3/8th style fuel sender I got from Dixie parts. It has the return line nipple. I capped it off for now. I may add the return line in someday but for now it works great.
Dixie parts fit great and it was easy to do. No leaks.

I also added a oil pressure switch and relay to my fuel pump. that is a must for safety.


Smos

Just been looking at the Summit Racing website. Has anyone ever tried the Carter inline fuel pumps? They look rather interesting

Are you going to put a regulator in the system? I was a little hesitant to do the full blown electrical pump, regulator, relay, oil switch etc. But, once I did the research it made sense and it was not hard. Just have to do your research on wiring etc.

If your going to put in a simple in-line fuel pump you are better off just using the reliable OEM type 6 psi mechanical pump. Works great.

If you are going to an electrical pump. I would make sure it had the right pressure output etc. You don't want to have low fuel pressure at WOT. You could go lean and blow a piston.

I am willing to do the whole system, just don't know what is involved. From what I can see, my biggest hangup will be the return line.

Mallory 140,with regulator (I think they just renamed the 140).
No return line needed. Regulator can be setup as a return line or dead head.

Also, one hint. If you use a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge be advised they can fluctuate with engine compartment temperatures. Set your regulator at 6 to 6.5 psi (holly carb) when cold and don't chase the psi. Mine gauge psi drops when the gauge is hot.

For a carb setup, the return line should not be needed if the electric pump is mounted aft in a cool location. Pressurized fuel from the aft mounted pump will resist vapor lock in the hot engine compartment... or will re-fill the carb bowl for start after heat soak boils out the fuel.

Your Holly should handle up to 7-9 psi fuel pressure. A self regulated pump in the 5-7 psi range, like the Carter street pump, mounted on a frame rail, should be fine without regulator or return line.

Excellent, folks! I appreciate it!

If you have several psi at the carb inlet at WOT (with an adequate fuel line ID end to end) then your delivery is adequate (tho an elec helps priming) and if your fuel ain't percolating then a return line ain't absolutely required but cooler fuel (from it constantly moving from the recirculating) does help power slightly (every little bit adds up)

Can anyone offer plans for wiring the fuel pump, including the relay? Is it on the internet somewhere?

Use the Carter pump. Puts out a steady 7 psi and doesn't require a return or relay to run it. This one is on my 32 Ford with an early Hemi with a 3 deuce setup. Runs perfect, but insulate it well from the chassis to cut down on the noise.

A couple of decades ago, I installed a Mallory 140 with regulator, plumbed into the factory mechanical pump, works great and if either would fail, I should be able to get home.
I also installed a fuel pressure gauge (electric) and mounted inside the car.

I decided to research this because I thought the electric fuel pump was a more modern way to move the fuel from tank to carb. It also would add some HP to the drive train. Are there any schematics available for wiring the pump, relay, and oil pressure sensor?

You folks have been a great source of information, and I thank you all.

If you go with a Carter pump the wiring is simple. No relay is needed just a fused 12 volt power line (hot when key is on) and a ground. Also, if you add a hidden toggle switch in the power line it makes for a good anti theft device.

By the way, electric pumps aren't that new... the '63 Austin Healey 3000 I drove in college had one.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html

Hope this helps

Also, I bought a tee for the oil sender and the oil switch.

Very good info.

So why won't you use a mechanical fuel pump?
500 hp six pak engines work fine on a mechanical pump.

I currently have a mechanical fuel pump, but have had issues with those pumps in the past. I was just researching a way to "modernize" my current setup.

The main reason is to deal with current gas which boils and vapor locks more easily. As most cars use pressurized EFI, vapor pressure of gasoline is not controlled to the lower levels of the 60's and 70's.

My '47 Power Wagon, for example, would not re-start after hot soak at all unless the fuel pump and adjacent lines in the engine compartment were hosed down with cool water. It would also cut out rolling on a 90 degree plus day.

My '78 Ford F250 had borderline vapor lock running and was very hard to start after hot soak. When I added a deeper tank + longer pickup, it also would cut out running at higher load in hot weather. Check showed fuel pressure dropping to near zero at the carb.

An electric pump fixed both... as a bonus, the carb bowl fills faster after sitting and much less cranking on cold start. The trucks are functional and fun again. As much as I would like to keep it simple, the electric pump can help keep these vehicles rolling.

I have aluminum heads and intake. How would that effect the heat soak issue?

Sure sounds like a lot of over complication for a simple deal. I run a Mr. Gasket pump right in front of the rear end. Been running it about four years now. Other than being a little noisy it works great. If I get the chance I'd change it for the noise but regulate to 6 psi right before the carb, no return and it supplies a 400 hp 360 in every situation. The car can sit for 2-4 weeks and to start it all that has to be done is start the pump, let it run until it deadheads, pump the electric choke carb three times and it fires right up. Sometimes too fast. GOOD grounding is the key.

I would guess Al heads and manifold would get more heat to the carb and tend to boil the fuel out more. As far as actual vapor lock in the pump and suction line, probably not much difference since that is down low... though exhaust and headers can have an impact.

A heat isolating gasket between the carb and manifold would help a lot with carb heat... as thick as you can fit.

I have a 1 inch 4 hole phenolic spacer. Would that help?

Yes, the spacer should help reduce heat transfer quite a bit.

I have used the Holley red for years in a few cars. Needs no regulator as its preset about 6 psi. Ron