replacing turn single switch: brake lights inop

Help!,
I have no brake lights on my 1970 challenger RT 4 speed vert.
I have checked the brake switch and have narrowed it down to the turn signal switch.ugh. the turn signal lights works, head light/tail light works, flasher works, No Brake lights!
I am guessing it's the switch.

Can some one give me a step by step to remove and replace the switch in the steering column.
Is there a part number also that I can use for the local parts store?
Much much appreciate the help.

Try cleaning the connection first. It's the white wire. Check this thread- some where in it Jim restores an E body ts switch and explains differences between B and E's.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/738678/js-restorations.html#Post738678

More than likely it's the T/S switch..Happen to my 70 Challenger R/T in 1970.... very easy to replace...once you get the wheel and that can off & switch lever, unplug from the bottom of the column and there is room to pull the wire with plug right up thru the column..

Did you just replace the switch cam (rebuild kit about 12 bucks) or replace all the guts of the switch?
Where do you get the parts?
Any tricks to pulling the can?
Thanks

Don't try to rebuild it... Herbs or Dante's ,,,sponser's on here sells them ....maybe even Rock auto I you can't find one let me know...I may even have a good used one laying around,, but they are available .. Larry

Thanks dynamite,
I will order one.
Looking now for a small puller to get the can off. Does it just pull off and then do you just tighten the main bolt down get it back on?
Thanks

What Pynzo said, at least confirm it is the TS switch assy. seperate the dangling brake/ts connector under the column & in the column half with the stalk in neutral there should be continuity between the white wire which is the "hot in" wire from the brake pedal switch and (2) "out" wires to the large filaments in the rear 1157 bulbs. www.mymopar.com will have the colors for you. If you ain't got that then you know what is coming next. Always a good idea (no matter what) to pull a batt cable before switching the VOM to ohms scale

I think it's the switch...I have a hot white wire that is going in when I press the brake switch and I have good lights with the turn signal or the hazards are on. So I assume it's the switch. also, I assume that the brake lights use the same brown and green wires going out to the 1157 bulbs as the turn signal?

Now it's a matter of pulling it apart.
I bought a puller but it wont fit inside the can. So now I have to find smaller puller.
Also the wires are snaked inside the column mounting plate under the column. So I will have to unbolt that I think so I can get the connector through and out.

It was restored before. So I am hoping they used the right parts. It looks like there is a 1970 challenger turn switch assembly and and a 1971 through 1974 challenger turn switch assembly in the catalogs.

A couple possible scenario's,...On my 70 RR iirc, the white wire goes through the flasher switch. Mine had melted at the crossover lug, causing the rivet to become loose and lost connection for the brake lights.

After a pinching of the rivet to get it to work for a test (LED's), there was also a loose/worn contact inside of the flasher switch to where it had to be in just the right spot in the off position or the brake lights wouldn't work. I eventually replaced with another good used switch.

yes same wires/large filaments in the 1157's & brown & green wires sounds right iirc

Wow! Thanks all.
Really appreciate the help.

Well,
I pulled the steering can and looked at the switch. I started doing some detective work with a electric testing light just to see if I could understand the failure.

It seemed that the power comes in through the flasher housing and then out to the turn signal and then out to the bulbs.

I decided to drill out the rivets in the flasher housing and take a look. I found that the flasher contacts were dirty and worn. I cleaned them up and also shimmed the top of the housing with a piece of small plastic to compress the contacts on the flasher switch a little bit. I then screwed the housing back on and it worked. It seems like it will hold.

It was a quick fix instead of pulling the switch completely out and having to unbolt the steering support housing where the wires would have to be pulled through.

Hope that helps the next time someone has no brake lights.

Fair chance will fail again one day. Keep a close eye on brake lights as they can fail for quite some time before you are aware, often at the expense of being rear ended. Turn signals at least you can get an early heads up from the tempo of dash indicators

Suggest hitting brakes before starting car to note if amp gauge wiggles.

I have an older Corvette(71) that has a console mounted fibre optic notification system that with a glance I can tell if all external lighting is in good order. Has alerted me a number of times over the years much sooner than I otherwise would have caught a failed light.

GM cheapened out in 72 and dropped the feature. Often wonder at the expense of how many accidents!

Good point, I have been watching the amp meter when I step on the brakes. So far it's working.
I did order a new switch. I figured I would change it out anyway at some point.
Thanks,