440SOURCE WATER PUMP HOUSING....JUNK?.....UPDATE!!

I'm running 190-200 on highway and town.I been reading on other forums that guys have discovered the 440source housing to be very restrictive to the bottom hose.Any suggestions on an upgrade? The old engine ran fine with a mopar housing.



I called a 440source distributor in Edmonton,he said the housing has a definate prob with restriction but is easily cleaned up with a die grinder. He said my eddy high volume pump is good.

i have one on my 512 68 charger, has ac & the temps outside have been over 105 car runs 180 all day long.

all I can add is I purchased one of their blems that needs that port to be hogged out, I just ain't got around to checking it out yet to see if it is doable or if I bought a pig but I feel lucky! (& it should be an easy enough fix if the bit can get in there far enough)

If you read some more it turned out the pump was the issue later on.
The pump wasn't that effective.

I believe this has been solved already some time ago.
The housing was however also revised and a the passage was enlarged.

i've read guys fighting a heating prob ,change housing and prob solved.There were even posts that the factory MP housing flowed better?
The mancini housing was mentioned a couple times as an upgrade.

There doesn't seem anything wrong with the (any) housings as such, but I recall 440source did change their casting mostly to get rid of the negative vibe around their housing.
If I recall correctly, everyone agreed the passage was tiny, but it was never proven to cause such a restriction that it would cause overheating.

There are some differences in pump performance, which I've noticed myself as well, even just recently.
A modern design pump curved vane 'should' provide more flow, but most of the times the factory pumps with stamped vanes provide way more flow.

I think this might has something to do with the depth of the vanes. The modern curved vanes are simply not deep/high enough to displace enough water.

Besides that, also everyone agrees that the pump vanes need to be as close to the pumphousing as possible (unless a enclosed impeller type vane is used.

I ran this "cat" pump on my eddie headed 440 with a 6 pak big cam, AC for 10 years. Worked fine But had super low miles on it with the aluminum housing I have. I got it like 13-15 years ago. I can't remember where I got(E bay?) the pump housing, but I think it's before 440 source stuff hit the shores? But I don't believe the housing has any bearing on any overheating issues, it's usually lack of air flow at low speeds or TUNING, imo. And use a thermostat.

I flushed my radiator last month and the water pump started leaking. I ordered up a standard stock volume water pump. It came with the "paddle" impeller. I bolted it in and it runs the exact same as the old pump. I have now driven it in Heath Ohio at the Mopar Nats 2 nights in slow traffic and up in Woodward this past week for 60-90 minutes of idling.

Stock mostly is where it's at when it comes to cooling, imo.

there was also an issue with using a 'stock' gasket instead of the one they recommend which is thicker. the pump can bind some in the housing.

Known issue...
Their original casting had smaller water ports...

In fact, rite now they are selling these parts @ a discount on their website..

"We have a limited supply of our 200-1079 Passenger side aluminum water pump housings which have been cast with a slightly smaller than normal lower water port.
We've used these on many engines without any problems, however because the ports are slightly smaller than normal, we are selling these as a "blem" item.
If desired, with a die grinder and carbide burrs, the passages could be opened up, similar to cylinder head porting.
A steal at this price, we've marked them down to over 50% OFF the normal price. Get them while they last. Once they are sold out, they are gone forever. $48.95 each..."

A friend ran 1 of these on his stroker 440, it ran hot...
Swapped it out for the Mopar performance part, tempeature dropped 10 degrees in So Cal traffic..


Just my $0.02...

that's the one I got & it was ordered with other items so it was $49. I just check ed it & that port is definitely gonna need some porting & I got the scroll pump earlier & the vanes do look shallow on it EDIT part # had a B after the 9 (for blem)

OK, lets look at what has been said. Over heating because of a smaller lower hose port. With that being said , how much smaller could it be? The lower hose is 1 3/4 " Most street cars run a thermostat or a restrictor which would restrict flow more than a half plugged pump housing. I would look at something else causing your problem.

Did the guy ever check the pump vane clearance against both housings?
Did he also change waterpumps?

I'll list my current cooling system:
-22" rad (i know its small) champion 3 core
-flex-alite 3300cfm
-non restrictive 165 thermostat
-eddy high volume pump
-440source housing
512 stroker

my old 500hp 440 ran cool without a shroud,mp pump housing,same rad

without a shroud the stroker got warm in traffic and about 170 on the highway

-I wish dodge would've had holes to bolt in a 26"

Why do you think that is a problem?

IMO there's nothing wrong with a 22" radiator. The problem I suspect is the fan. I'm thinking it is not moving enough air without a shroud. Put in a effective shroud and then maybe the electric fan might be enough. I doubt it. And put in a 180 or 195° thermostat, what are you doing with a 165?

when i run it hard it pukes a lil fluid,i should prob add an over flow cannister

i don't see how a diff thermostat would help,especially a hotter one.The elec fan would never stop .Currently i have the fan set to kick in around 190,on cooler days it will kick out quite often the car will run 180-185

what are the temps like where you live? i know Uranus is hot but as asked above, why the 165?

This is normal, that's why they have overflow tanks.

Your problem isn't your cooling system.

Running an engine with a 165 degree thermostat does nothing for it other than run the engine below efficient operating temps. If you were running a dedicated drag racer and turd polishing for the last tenth it might make sense. Anywhere else it's a bad choice. You'll note it does nothing for maximum temperature obtained.

I have the small passage 440 Source water pump housing on my 500 in. motor. Runs cool as a cucumber.

The 165 was in it,it never runs at 165 so not big deal.The minimum heat it has ever run was 180. I'm going to get a overflow can.
Also I believe the reason the car runs close to 200 on the highway is the 4:10 gears,runs at 3300 rpm at 60mph

Exactly.

Why is it puking coolant at 200°? Is your gauge wrong?

the fluid obviously expands,202 is the boiling point of water.The fluid level is down about 3/4" every week or so,depending on outside temp.I've only ever seen it drip a little.

I like hearing that! & you want no less than a 180 stat in there to get the eng above that cold/high wear window AS FAST as possible. Yes you are getting above 180 (with time) but you wanna be there ASAP & you get that with the stat being closed

Boiling point of water is 212°

With the correct radiator cap and antifreeze, it is like 240°

^^^ and the 165 stat is open all the time once warmed up. Coolant has no time to lose heat passing right through the radiator. He might find a 195 could hold it right around the number.

There's that myth again.
If so, then why would the same coolant have enough time in the engine to take up all the heat?

If a 165 stat is used and temps still rise above that all the time, it simply means the radiator/coolingsystem is not up to the task of cooling the engine, or the engine is not running efficiently enough.

He is running the same water pump..

Just my $0.02...

But whats the average temperature in Prospect, PA?
Today in SoCal it hit 109 degrees..


Just my $0.02...

its an 07 housing,so i think its the one with the restriction prob

The average temp in Prospect Pa is not 109°F, nor is it in So Cal. The car runs fine in the low 90°s, but I prefer to not drive it when it is that hot.

So the overheating only occurs at over 100°?