Clutch Fork??

The spring steel tab broke on my 68 GTX clutch fork. No problem pulling it right out. But looks impossible to install without pulling the trans and bell housing. Has anyone successfully installed a new clutch fork on a B-body (68 GTX) without pulling the trans? If so how did you do it? When you slide the new clutch fork up to the holder the TOB is too forward to install the fork? Thanks Larry J

You will not need to remove the Bellhousing, but you may need to pull the Transmission.

Would think it might be possible to do without removing the transmission (I would certainly attempt it) by removing the Dust Covers and Boot from the Bellhousing. With a New or repaired Clutch Fork, you "might" be able to re-engage the Throwout Bearing without pulling the transmission, though it would be somewhat like building a ship in a bottle.

There are semi-round-shaped retention springs on either side of the cast iron part of the Throwout bearing (see photo). Normally when installing the clutch fork, you feed said fork through the rectangular opening in the Bellhousing and attach the Throwout bearing to the fork by lifting the semi-round spring on each side and wiggling the bearing onto the fork. Note, this is easier to accomplish without a transmission input shaft sticking through the bearing.

I've only did one stick assy in my life (70 chall 318/3 sp) but iirc I slid the fork in place thru the side of the bell & hooked it under those clips 180 apart on the TOB. no way I'd think you'd ever need to pull a trans to just install a fork ???

Last Sunday I re-installed the fork and Throwout bearing on the '74 Dodge Power Wagon I bought last November. It was no problem with the transmission removed, as you can clip-in the bearing through the input shaft opening in the Bellhousing.

When you consider it, it would seem do-able, but the difficulty would likely be in orienting the bearing on the input shaft to receive the fork and somehow lifting the spring clips, plus it's all inside the Bellhousing and a bit of a challenge to see what you are doing inside. Then again, maybe you can just jiggle it in? Definitely would make the attempt.

Wish someone that works at a transmission shop would check in, but then again, they might just tell you to pull it and be done with it. Maybe John Kunkel would know?

I did it on a 1966 Satellite way back in 1979. I remember that I lined up the TO bearing so the open ends of the spring clips were facing the fork. Then I slid the fork in so the two tips on the fork were in position in relation ship to the clips. Then since I couldn't manipulate the clips open, I used "THE FORCE". Sadly, after all this time, I can't remember if I was able to smack the end of the fork with a hammer, or if I applied leverage with a 2x4 stud, or similar device. All I know is that it worked! You can try something like that... your results may vary.

My response is old ( did this as a kid many times) but it was mostly involved with Chevys.. I do not remember pulling the tranny for a fork.

Last time we pulled my 65s the fork came off.My son put it back on I run a scattershield.Took him about 20 minutes to do but he did it.Years ago I might have been able to but too old to twist around that much now.Oh my tab broke off once.I just put it back on and tack welded it.that was about 20 years ago and still working.Rocky

It can be done with the tranny in the belhousing, have patience though, it may take more than one try to get the retainers on the TOB to slide into the clutch fork and into the mounting bracket in the bell housing on the first try Have patience,do not give up YOU can DO IT

Cab its easier if you are younger and have small hands.Old men like me its a pain.Luckily I have 3 sons.Rocky

Thanks for the replies. I did try a few times today. It appears to me I will have to apply pressure on the TOB and push it towards the pressure plate. When you slide the clutch fork in the tabs on the end hit the casting of the TOB so you cannot engage the spring clip and the stationary metal retainer for the clutch fork. I think I may loosen all of the bell housing bolt and just slide it back slightly to see if that will giv me the extra space I need to engage all 3 points at once. Thanks Again LJ

Just did this today in a 68 Charger with a Lakewood. What an absolute pain that was. I had to loosen the TTI header first, then line up the TOB so the spring clips are ready to accept the fork, then pushed firmly on the fork and got the bottom one on good, but the spring on the top needed a screwdriver to slide the clip a little more to get under the fork.

I then used a cheap harbor freight inspection camera which is like a bendable snake thing and was able to confirm that both clips were in. My hands are garbage. I used the clutch pedal a few times and it stayed on, I think Im good to go.

Up date> We had to loosen the bell housing bolts and slide it back and the fork went right on except the top clip I also had to use a screwdriver to pop it on. Was a pain in the A$$.:)