dist parts?

does any one know where to get a replacement collar/pin for the dist shaft?

broke the stock plastic one driving pin back in and don't have any junk dist around to scavenge one off of.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Distributo...cb0&vxp=mtr

https://monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4659

Whhops , I bought one of the ebooger bushings , didn't know I could still buy them at the dealer for 1/4 the price ...

John, I think it has finally been discontinued from mopar.

I think you can get one at Lowes (1/2"ID). The flange might be a bit wider than OE but no biggie/wont affect operation & a roll pin is easy enough to come by. this'd get the dist finished immed WO having to wait on mailorder

You may as well pick up some shims to tighten up the slop in the shaft while you're there too.

so I would add shims above the collar so no up/down movement on the shaft in the housing?

how do you replace the bushings in the housing? they "JUST" press in/out?

this is a stock 1966 points dist, has a shaft oiling hole. the groove in the shaft was packed with carbon so I am sure the bushing is worn. does not "seem" to have side to side play after I gave it a good cleaning/light oiling.

Absolutely, you want the axial play to .005". Speedway has a nice kit of shims that dont have the edge like most washers do for cheap but you would have the mailorder wait (or deburr the ID/OD on the one side that has the sharp edge) of some thin washers

Lowes has the bushings and Grainger has a 15/32-17/32 adj reamer for $20. thats as far as I've gotten with this (P conversion on point dist). You want 1.163" from the top of the housing down to the top of the upper bushing (6" steel scale across the top) and lower bushing flush. they want "oilite" bushings soaked in oil for 15 minutes before installation & use a bushing driver or not as good would be a 1" dia punch. then install the shaft & if it binds then reaming is needed. When I get to that point I'm likely gonna try heat housing/freeze bushing(s) & go from there. the Lowes bushings are a hair shorter than 1&1/8" & compare that to the old ones when they come out as the new ones might need to be shortened. I just ain't at that point yet

I have a gaggle of slant six and smog LA distributors. They are all complete and have what you'd need. I'd gladly send you one since you are always helping other people out on this forum.

That would be great! thanks for helping out with a good core dist.

Members Helping Members

thanks kerndog

Scratch is GREAT! He deserves the help! Virtual gold stars for all of you amazing Moparts members!

Hi Mike!

You betcha. I packed 2 slanty distributors but if you need a V8 one, I'd open the box and stuff a different one in there. Just let me know. I don't recall if this is for a Big Block or small block though.

OOOOps, I just read this:

" this is a stock 1966 points dist"

I'll need to go back and get the right distributors for you. I thought I read that you had electronic distributors. No worries, I have a few points ones too.

working on the 440 with a firecore RTR dist. at the moment it has been returned to firecore.

I have a AZ reman in the 440 to get it to run, but no driving until it gets a recurve.

the 66 point dist is a spare 273 dist I had, hammer it apart to see if I can put it back together correctly before I open the reman for a spring change and limiter plate from FBO.

when I get the firecore dist back and dial it in for the 440, I will then have a reman points dist curved and ready to go in case of a failure again with the firecore dist.

like the points/cond I carry in the stepside for the last 20 yrs waiting for the pertronix points conversion to fail.

I think I am to the point I understand how to adjust the timing/advance curve with the FBO plate and get it set for initial,mech advance/total advance.

JUST swap in a 600$ cam JUST swap in a 500$ IGN. system JUST recurve the dist

yea JUST! learn how it is done. so if they are not needed they are good learning tools and something to do while I JUST wait.

anything is fine Greg. mucho thanks for the help.

do all of the elect dist need the reluctor looked at for phasing?

that's another thing that sounds like Charlie Browns teacher talking to me??

do I read correctly that all of the MP dist are prone to spark scatter due to rotor phasing?

big hammer? small Hammer? any hammer 3

Rick Ehrenberg has said that the MP distributors built by Mallory are the ones that have the greatest amount of spark scatter. It is worse when you have a worn timing chain. The advance weights in the Mallory/MP unit are very light too, Making tuning of the rate of advance a bit more difficult than with the heavier stock Mopar stuff. The Mallory units do have some cool features though. I like the ability to limit the advance by adjustment, rather than having to weld up the slots and then file them back to get it right.

Phasing check: best is to drill a 1/2" hole in the dist cap flat halfway between the center cap terminal and the #1 cap terminal & shine your timing light down on the rotor as it is idling which freezes it like a strobe light on a dance floor & see how far the rotor is from being centered on the cap terminal. switch the can hose to ported "EDIT meant to say manifold" to see how far the can shifts phasing and it shifts CCW on a SB and CW on a BB and an 11 deg can will shift the rotor 11 deg in the arc it (the rotor) operates in. if the dist is out secure it in a vise & put the cap on & make a mark on the dist top rim directly below the "Center" of a cap terminal bulge then take the cap off & with the rotor at that cap bulge location turn the housing slightly till the magnet is dead even with the tooth then make another mark on the dist metal top rim like you did prior straight down from the rotor tip & see how far the second mark is from the 1st mark. when the total (radial+circumferential) distance from the rotor tip to the cap terminal becomes greater than what the ign system in use can make jump that gap it will misfire. A NAPA Echlin MO3000 rotor has a .060" longer tip for $8 & change out the door or drill out a rotor & make your own (want .015 tip radial clearance) & correct the circumferential clearance as needed with a phasing correction. Ideally you want the rotor tip equidistant on either side of the cap terminal in that arc it swings in and I want it closer at WOT (no vac) in a perf app when required voltage is the greatest. rotor & cap terminals are wide so you have alot of leeway but some dists have phasing way off. sharpen/square off the edges of the rotor tip/cap terminals as current jumps easier from sharp edges than to smooth edges & keep em clean. Also note how much slop you have in the intergear slot/dist lower tang interface and timing gear/chain slop both of which will show up as spark "scatter". EDIT chek that the springs are fully retracting the weights & you'd wanna mod the initial/total/springs/can IN ORDER