Need help! Power to manual brake swap.

On my 72 challenger I am switching to manual brakes. I have the stiffening plate and master cylinder and adjustable pushrod. My question is, what part under the dash does the pushrod go? Directly on the pedal? It has a "z" bar type linkage under it now. Am I to do away with that linkage? I have the Mancini pushrod setup. Thanks for any help

Yes, you get rid of the Z bar linkage and the pushrod attaches right to the pedal.

Yes, dump the Z bar linkage and go directly to the pedal arm with your push rod. On my car I used 2" ( pedal pivot point to pushrod attachment ). I actually copied that measurement from a 65 manual brake Coronet. Worked pretty good on my 79 Chrysler Cordoba. Pedal pressure was up of course, but not bad at all. Used the same 1" bore master and all else stock brake system.

Thank you!!! That's what I was thinking but was not sure if i was missing anything. It doesn't come with instructions LOL

I have the 15/16 m/c. I hope it works good. Thank you guys for the help!

Well advised to obtain the smallest master cylinder bore that you can find, particularly if front disc brakes. My 70 Challenger had horrible front brake performance,,,non power brake,,,after switching to disc brakes and retaining drum brake mc.

Installed 15/16th mc found on Amazon for 50 bucks. All is well now. Also installed much cleaner, less noise, ceramic disc pads.

Should work fine.

Expect longer pedal travel and (possibly) a softer pedal.

I have disc brakes up front. I was told the opposite of what you are telling me with the 15/16 mc.

This is correct. The smaller the m/c bore the more the pedal has to travel BUT the less effort it will take. Larger bore will take less travel but more effort. Think about it for a minute!

I run disc / drum on my Cordoba, and I'm sure my brakes are considerably bigger than yours ( both in size and fluid capacity ). I have no problem with 1" master bore. Minimal pedal travel and rock hard after pad / shoe contact. Just make sure the rest of your brake system is up to snuff.

Pedal ratio has a great influence on both pressure and travel.

Some cars have different brake pedals for power/manual with different pedal ratios and direct links to the MC while others use the same pedal and depend on linkage to reduce the pedal ratio for PB.

That's what the Z-bar assembly does - which he's discarding. The Z linkage reduces the pedal travel but increases the pushrod travel. This would usually result in a very stiff pedal but because of the booster it takes very little pedal effort. That's also why it takes so much effort to stop a power brake a car when the engine dies!

Not to hijack, but what is the go-to M/C? I'm looking for an OEM type, disc/drum, using the usual parts: adapter plate, MP adjustable pushrod, OE pedal in a Dakota....

Dr diff! Best in the business! http://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html