318 build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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is this the intake?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edelbrock...sQ5fAccessories

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ok, for heads, contact www.cmengines.com ask for a quote for some enginequest 318B heads with oem valves & keepers and GM3100 springs and retainers set up at 1.65" IH.

I'd walk away from the chinese heads, I'd go for rebuilt OEM over those.

the EQ 318 heads are magnum heads, made in new zeeland and sold as "iron rams" by hughes. last year I got a quote from CME for $650/pr set up like this. the 318B uses an LA intake pattern. for a 318 I'd use an eddie performer intake (can find used for about $100). I'd snag some junkyard rocker arms.

the GM 3100 springs are a beehive spring w/about 350 lb/in rate and a 1.065" coil bind height. search the "best of" section for "cheap magnum spring" for more info.

for a cam, I'd probably look at a comp XE256.

for kickdown, I modded my 2bbl kickdown to work with an eddie RPM air gap.....

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good price, but you'll need to change springs out of stock mag heads if you plan on running anything bigger than a stock 360 or small summit cam....

also, just because they came off of a running engine doesn't mean they aren't cracked....

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I have all the stuff here I am about to do the Magnum head swap on my 83 D 250 with a 318;
if AT ALL possible I REFUSE to buy China made $#!T
Here's what I did, and it will allow you to run ANY LA intake, so you don't need the special Magnum intake throttle brackets, etc. I had my magnum heads redrilled to the LA intake pattern; same hole location different angle. There are some of them where the threads are thin on 1 side of the hole but using magnum gaskets and the Magnum spec of 12 ft lb instead of the LA 45 ft lb (I think the threads will "pull out" before I get there, and that gargantuan torque is mot needed on an alum intake even on a completely-LA engine.)
I think if I were to do anything different, (I may return the heads for this mod before I swap them in) I would go a lil BIGGER so I could install a Thread insert (Heli coil, etc) in the heads. (Hughes may include this in their job I am not sure) I am using the stock LA spec 3/8-16 intake bolts instead of the Magnum 5/16-18.

Set an LA intake gasket on top of a Magnum head, center-up the ports and you will see the bolt holes are in the same place. I sent an LA intake gasket with the heads to the machine shop so they had a "guide".

I have never seen a set done by Hughes but they modify heads this way quite often for $80. Cheap.
I had mine done by a local job-shop (non automotive) machine shop for a lil less.
But add that to a readily available LA intake (there were a few even at the "all-Chevy" swap I went to yesterday) 2 seperate sellers had LA engine Performers for $50 and $75. The $50 one was grungey the $75 one had been nicely cleaned up.

But this would definitely be a better budget way of having your Magnum heads (cake) and better choice of intake, for a more reasonable price (eating cake too)

I am using the thinner 0.028" head gasket from Mopar Perf and I have their push rods here too; from the stories I hear about pushrods I hope that does not bite me. Everything I hear, says that you need pushrods 0.025" longer than MP's conversion ones. The "normal head gasket is 0.042", so I am hoping that the difference between the thin ones and the thick ones, make up the difference in the push rods working or not. My Magnum heads wound up not needing a "clean up" milling.

On pushrods I have also read that Summit and others, have the 7.650" ones they are a standard pushrod for some engine I am not sure what. (use the "buyer's guide" section where they list each P/N pushrod by length diameter end-type, etc.in the back of the book. IIRC, that length pushrod is a standard length for some Ford motor.

My wife is taking a week off work next week so I will have my "window" to do the head swap, and have a vehicle here to drive during the swap.

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There are some of them where the threads are thin on 1 side of the hole but using magnum gaskets and the Magnum spec of 12 ft lb instead of the LA 45 ft lb (I think the threads will "pull out" before I get there, and that gargantuan torque is mot needed on an alum intake even on a completely-LA engine.)

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There are some of them where the threads are thin on 1 side of the hole but using magnum gaskets and the Magnum spec of 12 ft lb instead of the LA 45 ft lb (I think the threads will "pull out" before I get there, and that gargantuan torque is mot needed on an alum intake even on a completely-LA engine.)

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I would bet $$$ that you are going to end up with an intake leak only running 12 ft.lbs of torque instead of the 45 ft.lbs you are supposed to with an LA intake. Maybe not right after install, but eventually and the difference in the coeffecient of expansion between the aluminum intake and the cast iron heads will make it happen even quicker.

The different angles at which the threads go into the head is the reason for the different torque specs, when you are tightening sraight down with the Magnum pattern you are actually pushing the intake surface against the head surface, when you go in at an angle like the LA pattern you are pulling (stretching) the intake to the head thus the higher torque requirement.

Trust me, I'm a engines engineer, i.e. I design engines for a living. I can guarentee you are going to have problems with this set-up.

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I would bet $$$ that you are going to end up with an intake leak only running 12 ft.lbs of torque instead of the 45 ft.lbs you are supposed to with an LA intake. Maybe not right after install, but eventually and the difference in the coeffecient of expansion between the aluminum intake and the cast iron heads will make it happen even quicker.

The different angles at which the threads go into the head is the reason for the different torque specs, when you are tightening sraight down with the Magnum pattern you are actually pushing the intake surface against the head surface, when you go in at an angle like the LA pattern you are pulling (stretching) the intake to the head thus the higher torque requirement.

Trust me, I'm a engines engineer, i.e. I design engines for a living. I can guarentee you are going to have problems with this set-up.

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I never liked the 45ft lb spec of the factory LA anyway; I have had the threads pull out at that reading, on dead stock all-LA engines trying to get there. (my mom's '84 5th avenue and dad's 86 B-van come to mind) I've done 35 ft lbs since then on these, with no problems with all cast iron components.and I always anti seize the bolts. IIRC the last couple LA aluminum intakes I have had I have gone ~20-25 w/o a problem. but I don't use the 318-2 barrel shim steel type intake gaskets either.
Alot of the reason for 12 ft lbs is the smaller bolts on the Magnums.
and they liked to snap off upon removal with that small number.

For the guy that had the jig; Did you have any issues with on;y having 2-2/2 full threads on one side of a couple of the new bolt holes? Did you drill and tap for the magnum spec 5/16, or the LA spec 3/8 bolts?

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I have re drilled and taped a ton of these useing the LA intake bolts and 25ft lbs tq and have not had one of them come back yet. It was about 5 years ago I first did one and he drives it a lot but he does have a cast iron factory intake, all the others are aluminum intakes and not leaking either.

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I have re drilled and taped a ton of these useing the LA intake bolts and 25ft lbs tq and have not had one of them come back yet. It was about 5 years ago I first did one and he drives it a lot but he does have a cast iron factory intake, all the others are aluminum intakes and not leaking either.

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I've replaced several LA intakes without using a torque wrench and simply going as tight as I can with a short ratchet and haven't had a problem yet, so I can believe that 25 ft.lbs would be enough, but 12 ft.lbs sounds a bit low to me.

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haha

stock and stock!

i dont know what the rear end is.i wanna pull it out to clean it u and see what gear tag is on one of the bolts!

what are EQ heads?whats a performer intake?

i have a aluminium holley street dominator single plane if thats any good

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A performer intake is from edelbrock and its a great 2 plane intake. Better low end torque than the M1. It's lighter too. They make an air gap performer now too that makes gobs of low end torque. My buddy has one on a 350, he had the regular performer 1st, and there is a noticeable difference. The air-gap needs a little more cam though.

I wouldn't use the single plane at all. You need a lot of cam, and RPMs to do anything with it. Unless you plan on being on the track most of the time. Go on ebay or even in the SB parts for sale on this site. You can get a used Edelbrock Performer for a 273/318 small block for less than $100.00. Make sure the threads are all clean, and if its magfluxed and clean of cracks its worth the little extra they'd charge. Buy used, then sand and paint it up.

The performer is much better for street/strip use. Also, run a thermoquad carburetor, a rebuild-able core shouldn't cost more than 40-50 bucks. Demonsizzler on this site charges 200 for a rebuild. Its worth it, still cheaper than a new carb, and anything used needs a rebuild anyways. You can get a GP sorenson kit and a book for 50 bucks too if you want to rebuild yourself.

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The street dominator for a small block mopar is a tourqy intake with smalish runners and plenum compared to most single planes, also the runners are as long as a dual plane so they are not like most single planes.

There is no performer air-gap for a small mopar. The performer air gap for a small chevy has the same exact ports as the non a-ir gap performer for a small chevy, the only differance is the air-gap so the ideal cam would be the same for either.

I do agree about useing the thermo quad, it is a very good carb when you consider the $$$ you would spend on something else plus the heat insulateing benifits and big 800+ cfm from a carb that will run great on a little engine.

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Here's the way to go for heads.
Clearwater EQ heads
You can't even buy the parts and labor to rebuild old heads for what these are going for.

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I found several places cheaper than them including Hughes!!!
CCH wants $350 too high; I found some for $229 each; EQ's national sales Manager has them listed on Ebay for that! These are "bare" prices/I have plenty of valves from bum cracked heads and access to valve grinding equip to "clean them up" before installing them.

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There is no performer air-gap for a small mopar.

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There is no performer air-gap for a small mopar.

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There is if you are running Magnum heads.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D7577&autoview=sku

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(1) the BB one is very good, the SB one I am going to find out(as I have one in hand) but it should be good (2) I dont know (3) I dont know (4) no

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haha im confused? are you reffering to me?lol

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(1) no need to be confused (2) yes I will from here on out quote what I am commenting on to(try) & eliminate any confusion

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I found several places cheaper than them including Hughes!!!
CCH wants $350 too high; I found some for $229 each; EQ's national sales Manager has them listed on Ebay for that! These are "bare" prices/I have plenty of valves from bum cracked heads and access to valve grinding equip to "clean them up" before installing them.

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I believe the CCH heads are not bare but have the 2.02 intakes, springs and keepers.
I have not checked out Carolina but will today.
Craig

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ok

so im confused.the holley aluminum street dominator intake is no good?

oh and by the way

i found a good deal

a cam and lifters

idk what the cam is but the numbers are

.398 260 degree .420270

is that any good?

also will long tube headers out of a 74 valiant four door with a 318 fit my 318 in my 72 satellite with power steering?

the guy wants 100 bucks for the two things.both new!

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does anyone know?

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Thats a really good deal it sounds like. But Id reccomend the 430 lift mopar performance 340 grind cam. They work well in a 318

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ok

so im confused.the holley aluminum street dominator intake is no good?

oh and by the way

i found a good deal

a cam and lifters

idk what the cam is but the numbers are

.398 260 degree .420270

is that any good?

also will long tube headers out of a 74 valiant four door with a 318 fit my 318 in my 72 satellite with power steering?

the guy wants 100 bucks for the two things.both new!

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does anyone know?

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Thats a really good deal it sounds like. But Id reccomend the 430 lift mopar performance 340 grind cam. They work well in a 318

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