Fuseable link

I need a new one for my 69 charger anybody know where I can get one I've tried year one and classic industries there both out of stock. Thanks for any help

Any local parts store will carry fusible links in premade lengths or by the foot.

Ok thank you

Napa

The fusible link in my '69 Charger had been replaced by someone with a regular wire at some point, just twisted and taped in there. I bought a new 16 gauge fusible link at the local autoparts store for a few dollars, which has the fusible link label on it and a ring terminal, but is just bare on the other end. I didn't have a new Packard 56 terminal to crimp onto it, so I reused the original one. The problem was that it was still factory-crimped onto that short remaining section of the original fusible link. So I drilled the wire strands out of the crimped area with a 1/16" drill bit, inserted the new fusible link, and then recrimped it with an open barrel crimping tool, like so:

My fusible link failed not as a result of overload, but poor connection and heating at the spade terminal. Showed up driving in a summer rain storm... just about every OE electrical device was running. I replaced with a link from the parts store... but made the joint with ring terminals crimped and soldered plus a short 3/16" screw + lock washer + lock nut. Then taped.

I know not original, and if you dig down in the wires and look at it not pretty but I do not have to worry about poor connection. A little 1/4" spade terminal is just pretty marginal for loads in that wire. (even with newer re-pop harness that I was running).

Evans wiring has them... LINK

I would recommend that U solder that terminal as well, assures a better contact..

Just my $0.02...

Chrysler didn't use solder on the fusible link terminals, nor on any other crimp in the entire wiring harness, and neither did/does any other car manufacturer that I know of.

Solder is very useful for plumbing and printed circuit boards (I used to work in a PCB factory, through-hole soldering terminal blocks into about 1,000 PCBs a night, for 2 years, and I still do a lot of soldering at home when fixing old PCBs), but it isn't so great for car wiring. It will do in a pinch, but a proper crimp is superior.

A proper crimp is airtight, so the wire within the crimp can not corrode, and it is also still flexible. Corrosion isn't really an issue with a soldered joint either, but it is comparatively brittle, which is a bad thing in a high-motion, high-vibration environment which is subjected to many cycles of hot and cold. Cars use multi-strand wiring because of this (rather than solid core like in houses, where there is no motion), and using solder defeats the purpose of that (solder will crack a lot easier than even solid core wire). Every solder joint you add is a weak (brittle) link in the harness. You can see this for yourself by simply tinning a section of wire and then flexing it several times. It won't take long to crack.

A lot of repairs I do to old PCBs consist of re-soldering old cracked solder joints, especially on the chassis of old CRT monitors (i.e., from 1980s video arcade machines), and those aren't even usually subjected to significant motion/vibration. The cracking is mainly due to many hot and cold cycles over a long period of time.