lifting body to install engine from below

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http://store.uscartool.com/uni-lift-unibody-front-end-lifting-tool.html

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That's basically what I want to do but I'm going to use angle iron. I just want a recommendation of what size to use. I used a spare set of bumper brackets to install the engine in my Challenger. I've seen people use angle iron before.

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2x2 .125 angle

2x2 .125 square tube

2 bolts/nuts

Drill 6 holes

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/crackedback/70%20Dart%20340%20EK2/Engineinstall.jpg[/i




I had to lift the engine and car with this set up because of the engine/car angle wouldn't allow it to settle at K frame. Long bolts run in, picked up, more blocks under pan. No problems at all.

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This is a nice install.Inexpensive and easy to make.Good job.

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I bought brackets from AutoTwirler that attached to the front bumper bracket mounting holes. Purchased some scrap 4x4 steel tubing from a scrap yard. Worked great for engine removal and hopefully as well for installation.

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Yep,

No need to spend excessive $ on something so simple to solve and be absolutely safe.

Want an engine dolly, harbor freight 1K moving dolly, another cheap smaller one for under the trans pan and a small piece of plywood to fill the open areas of dolly and some carriage bolts/nuts.

My lift bar is possibly available to be borrowed/rented.

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I have a four post lift, I was thinking of doing the install with that, lowering the car over it. I can see how you can get access to the K frame bolts at ground level, but how are you guys getting to holding up the trans? When you have to raise the car to get the trans brace? Wont the engine tilt back on the motor mounts and hit the firewall?

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Seems to me that a tiny bit of engineering is in order.

If the rear axle is used as the fulcrum, the weight of the front of the car is going to be some fraction of the total car weight, maybe several hundred lbs, especially if the fenders and hood are on the car.

But if you simply move the fulcrum to the forward spring brackets, the front of the car will weigh much less. And if you move the fulcrum a few more inches forward, the front of the car will weigh zero or less than zero, meaning the car will actually tilt backwards.

When I can lift the front of the car with my own muscles and without too much effort, I figure the fulcrum is in the right place for a safe lift with an engine crane or whatever.

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Just remember whatever you engineer to lift the car shell up to install the engine package also may need to support the weight of the assembled front end when you are through. It may have to hold of lift the weight of the complete front end to remove the engine cradle to get the car on stands or the tires. Same for the engine/x-member cradle. You need to design the cradle or the body lift brackets to handle the total weight of the mated package, not just the weight of the single pieces.

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A floor jack under each frame rail/t-bar crossmember will lift the front, no need to stress the lift bars unless you don't have an alternative.

I jacked mine back up, then reinstalled a set of bumper bolt mount body dollies.

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The engine is in. The 2" x 1/8" angle worked just fine to lift the car. I had the rear supported on body stands at the forward leaf spring mount. There was very little weight on the front. I would however recommend using 1/4" angle. Once the engine was bolted up, I wanted to see what the 1/8" could handle and lifted the car up with the cherry picker. The angle showed a little bit of deflection. It held the weight OK but 1/4" angle would be nice insurance.

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Seems to me that a tiny bit of engineering is in order.

If the rear axle is used as the fulcrum, the weight of the front of the car is going to be some fraction of the total car weight, maybe several hundred lbs, especially if the fenders and hood are on the car.

But if you simply move the fulcrum to the forward spring brackets, the front of the car will weigh much less. And if you move the fulcrum a few more inches forward, the front of the car will weigh zero or less than zero, meaning the car will actually tilt backwards.

When I can lift the front of the car with my own muscles and without too much effort, I figure the fulcrum is in the right place for a safe lift with an engine crane or whatever.

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Looks solid on paper but... the farther forward you move the fulcrum (jack stands) the higher you need to jack the car up so the gas tank and bumper don't hit the ground. That increase the angle the frame sits on the jack stands raising the risk of the jack stands walking or completely kicking out. Essentially, you're introducing a side load onto the jack stands. Using the axle as a pivot point introduces no such load as the weight is carried through the CL of the jack stands.

This is a simple process. There is no need to over-engineer or introduce risk into the equation. As mentioned, a couple hundred pounds of weight in the trunk works wonders for over all counter balance, although I've never used CW myself.

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Just remember whatever you engineer to lift the car shell up to install the engine package also may need to support the weight of the assembled front end when you are through. It may have to hold of lift the weight of the complete front end to remove the engine cradle to get the car on stands or the tires. Same for the engine/x-member cradle. You need to design the cradle or the body lift brackets to handle the total weight of the mated package, not just the weight of the single pieces.

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