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64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY?

Posted By: mikeysmopars

64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/15/15 10:44 PM

Which 8 3/4 rear will work in a 64 880 custom. Friend wants to shed the taperd axle and go with a conventional rear. Will one from a 68 to 70 b body bolt up? Also is this a B or C body car?
Thanks In advance
Posted By: John_Kunkel

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/15/15 11:04 PM

You need one with 46" spring centers which is C or E-body. E-body has the wrong pinion angle so a '65-'69 C-body would be the best fit.
Posted By: dogdays

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/15/15 11:07 PM

It is neither B or C body. It is the full-size Chrysler body, like the New Yorker of the same year.

I bet Rocky could tell you about the rears. To my eye, the cars were pretty narrow and I bet either a later B or early C would fit.

R.
Posted By: therocks

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/15/15 11:23 PM

IIRC they made them a bit wider than the kids 62 300 was.We did fit a 69 C body under his 62.He used the offset hanger and it fit well.Then he used my 65 B body and was a straight sweap.The 64 should use a later c body as I believe they were wide for the 880 which was a full size.Plymouths were termed mid size .Rocky
Posted By: Supercuda

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 01:01 AM

Quote:

You need one with 46" spring centers which is C or E-body. E-body has the wrong pinion angle so a '65-'69 C-body would be the best fit.




Used a 69 C body under my 64 300. Fit fine, but word to the wise, at least look at the brakes before your test drive, especially if your alley has a hard right, or a swamp as your choices at the end of it.
Posted By: mikeysmopars

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 01:04 AM

Thanks Guys appreciate the Info
Posted By: DoctorDiff

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 04:49 AM

You could install my 1 piece conversion axles in your original housing.

E-mail me if you are interested.
Posted By: Centerline

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 06:11 PM

Or you could just do the '65 and up brake upgrade for under $100 and then there's no reason to swap rear ends. Mopar Tapered Axle Brake Conversion
Posted By: dogdays

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 06:44 PM

Doing that conversion doesn't get you much in my book, and new drums for $100 each isn't a bargain either. And you still have the tapered axle, that MIGHT loosen enough for the hub to spin on the axle shaft, although I'll agree it isn't hugely likely.

I tried to use a puller to get the hub off and mushroomed the end of the axle. Needless to say, the axle can't be reused and so I replaced the whole thing with the rear end from my donor '71. But I'm going to have to cut the hub off with a torch if I ever want to liberate the 3.91 gearset. Actually that will be a good experience because I hate that two-piece axle.

I like the idea of DrDiff's conversion axles because you get brand new shafts which are probably higher quality than the 50-year-old ones you have now.

R.
Posted By: Twostick

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 09:13 PM

Getting the drum off for current/future brake service is actually pretty easy.

My late buddy did it for his 64 b-body after destroying an axle with the puller.

He just used a BFH to drive the wheel studs out of it and then removed the drum like you would any other.

He then measured the holes in the drum and turned the swage on the new studs down in a lathe to that size to locate the drum securely.

Kevin
Posted By: John_Kunkel

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/16/15 11:50 PM


Removing the drum from the taper hub only lets you do brake work, to do axle work or remove the center section you still need to deal with removing the hub. The Fairbanks puller seems to work better than the traditional pullers.

http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html
Posted By: Centerline

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/17/15 02:05 AM

Quote:

Doing that conversion doesn't get you much in my book, and new drums for $100 each isn't a bargain either. And you still have the tapered axle, that MIGHT loosen enough for the hub to spin on the axle shaft, although I'll agree it isn't hugely likely.




Actually the new drums are under $40 at Napa. Also, the tapered axles were strong enough for the max wedge cars and they'll hold up to just about anything under 500 horses.


Quote:

I like the idea of DrDiff's conversion axles because you get brand new shafts which are probably higher quality than the 50-year-old ones you have now.

R.




DrDiff's option is probably the way to go if you're intent on doing any serious racing but surely isn't the inexpensive way out. The brake upgrade costs Under $100 total.. I hesitate to say how much the new axles from DrDiff run.
Posted By: DoctorDiff

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/17/15 06:44 AM

The new axle package runs $300 complete.
Posted By: Centerline

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/17/15 06:57 PM

Pretty reasonable considering what you get.
Posted By: John_Kunkel

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/18/15 12:56 AM

Quote:

Also, the tapered axles were strong enough for the max wedge cars and they'll hold up to just about anything under 500 horses.




Every serious racer carried a spare set of axle keys.
Posted By: Centerline

Re: 64 DODGE 880, WHAT REAR END B OR C BODY? - 01/18/15 01:13 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Also, the tapered axles were strong enough for the max wedge cars and they'll hold up to just about anything under 500 horses.




Every serious racer carried a spare set of axle keys.




Touché. Always a smart move.

Point is for street duty, typical stoplight to stoplight stuff, the original tapered axles are more than up to the task. A simple (under $100) mod makes them totally serviceable with modern brake drums that slip on just as the '65 and later diffs do. However, if you want to do some serious racing or you're running upwards of 500 ponies on the street, an upgrade would probably be a good idea.
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