electronic voltage regulator 62-69 style ?

Ma used the same reg in later years with all the alts.In fact the 63 cop car we had had a hi output alt and mechanical reg and it worked great for years.Rocky

... this was in the suppliers instructions.
and it was completely electronic inside a '69 style case
there are probably different manufacturers

Here's the thing: The voltage regulator only regulates the alternator field. It supplies enough voltage to the field for the alternator to produce enough current into the load that the resultant alternator voltage is in the target range.

The current draw of the field would be the only thing that'd affect the VR.

I think the manufacturer's instructions were being overly cautious.

R.

I agree it senses volts and thats it.thats why its called a VR not an amp reg.It dosent care if the alt puts out 20 or 200 amps.If it did Ma would have had a bunch for the different alts it used.Rocky

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

I posted this previously, good information regarding Voltage Regulators.

I would recommend using a higher quality voltage regulator, and sacrifice the vintage look for functionality, such as using the Standard-BlueStreak VR-128. I just got one from Amazon, it amazingly was made in the U.S.A. and not China or Mexico!!!

Here is some great info from Daniel Stern I found on a few other mopar forums regarding Voltage Regulators.

I found the best price for the Standard-BlueStreak VR-128 on Amazon.com.

Voltage Regulator Info

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33436&sid=17f81f0f969d43ac7815fb368015582f

I don't like the no-name electronic regulators - have found them less than perfectly reliable, and I don't need the headache of worrying about it. On the single-wire '60-'69 systems I try to use a NAPA Echlin VR-1001 or Standard-BlueStreak VR-128. But if you need to have the original appearance, then you could get the type you're asking about, and carry a spare. But for the same money you can have a known-reliable quality-made regulator.

Don't forget to run a ground loop (alternator housing to voltage regulator base, voltage regulator base to battery negative).


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-138425.html


Echlin = not as much of a no-brainer reliable choice as it used to be, same as Standard. You have to be choosy and you have to pay careful attention to country of origin for the exact specific part you're buying.

Are you running the '60-'69 type regulator or the '70-up? If you're running the '60-'69 type, get an Echlin VR-1001 or Standard VR-128.


VR-1001 is a fully-potted heavy-duty electronic regulator. All of these will operate the '60-'69 alternator, it's a question of how good and what kind of regulator you want.

VOLTR - Echlin VR 1001@ $54.99 voltage regulator / solid state replacement on 60s Studebakers for the old points / vibrator types. Red wire that comes out of the bottom with a spade connector on it connects to the Ign circuit and the Field circuit attaches to the threaded post terminal on top.

The alternator ground connection isn't a post or a terminal -- it's an empty small round hole in the back of the alternator housing. Sometimes it's tucked in between two fins and tough to see, but it's there. And yes, the wire just assures a signal-quality ground between the alternator and the voltage regulator. This wire often cures/prevents slow voltage regulation resulting from noisy ground. Slow voltage regulation results in flickery lights. Very annoying.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

Daniel Stern? Isn't he the tall geeky guy in City Slickers?

R.