Quote:they help stop the dizzy shaft from moving up and down. helps to create a more accurate spark on the inside of the cap. lightly pull up on your rotor and you'll see if your dizzy is older.
Looking at the picture in the link, I can't tell what these collars do. Can someone explain it?
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Slip the collar on with the tang protruding out the bottom slightly with the setscrew snug then install the dist which'll slide the collar up just the right amount & no more then remove the dist being carefull not to disturb the collars' vertical position on the shaft then tighten the setscrew appropriately & use some loctite then reinstall it in the eng. My prior post was on the OE collar higher up on the shaft with the roll pin thru it
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Slip the collar on with the tang protruding out the bottom slightly with the setscrew snug then install the dist which'll slide the collar up just the right amount & no more then remove the dist being carefull not to disturb the collars' vertical position on the shaft then tighten the setscrew appropriately & use some loctite then reinstall it in the eng. My prior post was on the OE collar higher up on the shaft with the roll pin thru it
Exactly how I did mine in my BB...timing is rock steady now!Been in there a few years.I was on the verge of spending big $$ on a MSD setup in an effort to stabilize my timing. It's always nice to come across a cheap fix for a change. 
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So this collar keeps the oil pump drive gear from bouncing? The plastic collar higher up on the distributor holds the distributor shaft from bouncing.
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I ain't sure if the intergear/shaft wants to come up but what works for me is (1) to remove the roll pin/collar & add shims to reduce that axial play to .005". (2) add the aftermarket collar down below (3) then if the rotational play on the rotor is anything more than a c hair I either peen the lower tang or I have even built up the recess in the top of the intergear with weld then dremel it out for a good fit. A pain but blueprinting is never easy & all the minor details add up & keeps me on top of the chebrolet boys & maintains Mopar superiority. Next on the check list is possibly adding a shim on the top shaft under the clip to reduce that axial play and to drill/tap the outer ends of the slot plate so I can add a setscrew (one on each end)) to be able to adj total thru the vac can window & do Nacho's trick of bending the magnet so the vac adv changes the reluctor gap as little as possible (as is there is too much change) & I'm considering adding one of those 60's spouts on the side so you can add drops of oil to lube the bushings tho they do seem to get lubed somehow adequately but I do reduce the play right there at that opening where the oil vapors enter to .005" by adding shims above the OE collar/roll pin. EDIT Big blocks, yes absolutely
Quote:I'll check tomorrow (Wed) on a couple of em I have
How much shimming is usually needed under the stock lower distributor collar? Getting ready to order up some shims...
Quote:Quote:I'll check tomorrow (Wed) on a couple of em I have
How much shimming is usually needed under the stock lower distributor collar? Getting ready to order up some shims...