Have a Hemi/BB A-Body 4-speed ? - Clutch linkage?

Just curious if anyone here has a A-body hemi or BB with a 4 speed using mechanical linkage ?

I have a big height difference between the z-bar pivot and the clutch fork - This causes the adjustment rod to run uphill on a angle into the fork (isn't parallel to the ground)

I have all the correct brackets, z-bar, rods linkage and fork from Brewer's and using a 60's Lakewood 2 piece scattershield - I have the z-bar level and 90* to the frame rail.

I have seen many BB/Hemi cars with the z-bar in the car at an extreme angle up or down - so I know it can be a problem

I'm thinking of just building a "z'd" adjustment rod ?

Here is a pic with the rod parallel - there is 1.25 inch difference in height

end view

You might have the wrong pivot bracket for the fork? There are lots of diff ones.

It appears that the ball stud bracket is at an angle from your pics and it should be level. I have never had good luck with Lakewood bellhousings for big block A-Body's as they are best a compromise. I always used Ansen as they were specifically made for that application. If you can take a better pic of the bracket on the bellhousing I can tell you for sure.

Rhino - This is the ballstud bracket I used (picture is from brewers website)

Are you saying the bolt holes should be straight up and down ? - my bracket is definately slanted/tipped forward in my car - hmmmm -

I know the bolt holes in the scattershield itself are angled - I have 3 of them - 2 are in my other cars and they are all angled but they are also in b-bodies

Are the bolt holes straight up and down when using a stock bellhousing ? (not questioning your advice at all I am just curious before I do any more cutting)

I will look at pics online of the stock bellhousings - hopefully it will be that simple

Thank you for your help

I agree with that you have the wrong pivot bracket for the fork. I had to go through several different ones to get the right geometry on my duster. I cant remember what I ended up using now. I tried the A-body big block pieces and they did not work right. I also had to make a z-bar pivot bracket for the bellhousing side to get it to be level.

I tried 3 different fork pivot brackets and 3 other mopar forks - no dice

I also checked my other scattershields to see if somehow the nuts for the fork pivot were welded in the wrong location

I have a fork that fits B-body SB/BB-A/BB-E SB/BB and a fork pivot for 68-72 BB cars thats in the car now (shown in the pics)

I know there are MANY guys here alot smarter than I am so I figured I would ask before I really start

When I put the first big block four speed a-body together I used the 69 440 bell, but it only has one stud hole so I had to get creative. This worked, but in the end we just relocated the torque shaft (custom made) back toward the firewall.

Your bracket looks like the correct one. Could be a fork issue as there are different forks.

Like I thought, bellhousing is wrong! I will take a picture of my Ansen bell and a factory bell to show you what it is supposed to look like. You have the right parts, the bell is what is causing you problems. Do you have a copy of the Jim Schild book on Hemi Darts? It shows what is required also.

Thanks Rhino - no hurry with the pics - I found ansen pics on the net but there is no good pics from the side

I just found out there was a direct connection race bulletin released ( bulletin #3) that involved cutting 1/2" or so off the lower leg of the torque shaft

I have the Yellow Race Bulletin "bible" from 1979 and it's not in there so I started another post looking to see if someone has it

I found that I had pictures of the linkage before my car burned last year, it does look like it is at a slight angle.

Anudder...

More...

Pics of the 68 Hemi Super Stock linkage from the Jim Schild book.

Close-up of the bracket...

Rhinodart - Thank you for posting those pics for me. I know your a busy guy and I appreciate it.

I have from a couple of Pm's that the linkage will be at a slight uphill angle (5-10*) - everyone said modify what you need to get the torque shaft as plumb as possible to the car and then just run it..

I am now done obsessing over this

Thanks to everyone who replied with advice