Posted By: mcat4321
i want to redrill my small axles to large bolt pattern - 10/22/13 09:07 PM
i know people do it, i know it can be done,
does someone offer a template to do so?
does someone offer a template to do so?
Quote:Maybe, maybe not. The larger bolt pattern axles also have a lrger center register so you can't easily take a 4.5 inch bolt pattern wheel and lay it on the small pattern axle and use it as a pattern I have had several sets of A body axles done by a shop in SO CA years ago, he made a mandrel that centered on the small axle register with the large 4.5 inch bolt pattern in it and then transferred the pattern to those axles, he would drill and tap them for 1/2 inch by 20 threads screw in studs Those worked good, lasted a long time, same thing on the brake drums, same pattern
i know people do it, i know it can be done,
does someone offer a template to do so?
Quote:
You'll still have the small center register, so no wheels will pilot, and you'll have oddball drums. If you're bucks-down, just take a chop saw to C-body or pickup axle shafts.
Rick
Quote:
You'll still have the small center register, so no wheels will pilot, and you'll have oddball drums. If you're bucks-down, just take a chop saw to C-body or pickup axle shafts.
Rick
Quote:Quote:
You'll still have the small center register, so no wheels will pilot, and you'll have oddball drums. If you're bucks-down, just take a chop saw to C-body or pickup axle shafts.
Rick
Can any C-Body axles be cut to fit the A-Body 8 3/4? How much needs to be cut? What year trucks? I have re-drilled A-body axles right now, but would like the big register. I would still have to use the A-body drums and re-drill them, right?
Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studs
Quote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels. I was launching foot break but 1.50ish 60's too and never had a problem and as far as I know is still going. Redrilled the brake drums also.
Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels.
Quote:Not if you usse screw in studs. There is all most as much meat around the stud as the large holed knurled type. You will break a stud before you break the flange.
Too close to the edge, I'm frugal and would not even consider it after looking into it.
Pick up some truck or a set of C-body axles and have Moser work their magic or if you are a fan of sealed bearings (I'm NOT) get some aftermarket axles.
Quote:Actully you will twist the left side axle splines off and break the axle first before the screw in studs give you any problems, trust me on that Many 10.60 ET at 3150 lbs for many laps on A body axles before they brokeQuote:Not if you usse screw in studs. There is all most as much meat around the stud as the large holed knurled type. You will break a stud before you break the flange.
Too close to the edge, I'm frugal and would not even consider it after looking into it.
Pick up some truck or a set of C-body axles and have Moser work their magic or if you are a fan of sealed bearings (I'm NOT) get some aftermarket axles.
Quote:
Can any C-Body axles be cut to fit the A-Body 8 3/4?
Quote:
... I have had several sets of A body axles done by a shop in SO CA years ago, he made a mandrel that centered on the small axle register with the large 4.5 inch bolt pattern in it and then transferred the pattern to those axles, he would drill and tap them for 1/2 inch by 20 threads screw in studs Those worked good, lasted a long time, same thing on the brake drums, same pattern
Quote:Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels.
Both my failures were on the street turning quick corners, not nearly the same loads on drag cars...
Quote:Quote:Not if you usse screw in studs. There is all most as much meat around the stud as the large holed knurled type. You will break a stud before you break the flange.
Too close to the edge, I'm frugal and would not even consider it after looking into it.
Pick up some truck or a set of C-body axles and have Moser work their magic or if you are a fan of sealed bearings (I'm NOT) get some aftermarket axles.
Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels.
Both my failures were on the street turning quick corners, not nearly the same loads on drag cars...
I've done all kind of autocrossing and high speed track days with mine. Driven 1600 miles in 40 hours and overloaded car to 5600 lbs once. Lots of other long trips.
Been off track a few times at high speed. Bent front steel rim once and twice had to have my rear tires dismounted and remounted to remove the chunks of earth wedged between the tire and rim bead.
The corners are long enough and fast enough that the rear end will puke diff oil out the little factory breather.
Going directly sideways against the axle over desert terrain at 70mph or so...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XJW-YvipFYE...mp;ved=0CA0QqwQ
But nowdays I would have just got real BBP axles. Makes life easier for brakes.
Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels.
Both my failures were on the street turning quick corners, not nearly the same loads on drag cars...
I've done all kind of autocrossing and high speed track days with mine. Driven 1600 miles in 40 hours and overloaded car to 5600 lbs once. Lots of other long trips.
Been off track a few times at high speed. Bent front steel rim once and twice had to have my rear tires dismounted and remounted to remove the chunks of earth wedged between the tire and rim bead.
The corners are long enough and fast enough that the rear end will puke diff oil out the little factory breather.
Going directly sideways against the axle over desert terrain at 70mph or so...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XJW-YvipFYE...mp;ved=0CA0QqwQ
But nowdays I would have just got real BBP axles. Makes life easier for brakes.
My failures were long before screw-in studs were available, so I cannot comment on how good they are.
Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:
Drilling and tapping using screw in studs leaves very near as much meat around the stud as the OEM original knurled pressed in studsQuote:
The axles on my sons Dart were drilled to the large pattern and has screw in studs. It was done in 1997 and the axles are still in the car. It has been raced and driven over the years with no problems. Ron
You guys need to quit making sense.
I've done the same thing. Launching off a transbrake and running sub 1.50 60's.
Run stud centric wheels.
Both my failures were on the street turning quick corners, not nearly the same loads on drag cars...
I've done all kind of autocrossing and high speed track days with mine. Driven 1600 miles in 40 hours and overloaded car to 5600 lbs once. Lots of other long trips.
Been off track a few times at high speed. Bent front steel rim once and twice had to have my rear tires dismounted and remounted to remove the chunks of earth wedged between the tire and rim bead.
The corners are long enough and fast enough that the rear end will puke diff oil out the little factory breather.
Going directly sideways against the axle over desert terrain at 70mph or so...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XJW-YvipFYE...mp;ved=0CA0QqwQ
But nowdays I would have just got real BBP axles. Makes life easier for brakes.
My failures were long before screw-in studs were available, so I cannot comment on how good they are.
Grade 8 socket cap screws. Been around forever.