OK, WHAT'S GOING ON WITH MY AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM

OK, some may have read my post about my a/c compressor running constantly on my 95 Concorde. Fast forward to today.

Since I've owned this car, (probably 2.5 years) I've replaced the a/c compressor, this will be the 3rd. one. First one lasted till 2011, then replaced it with a known good in, it lasted probably 3/4 year, then it locked up, replaced it with another used one, it lasted 2 seasons. Now, let it go till this past weekend, bought a rebuilt one, replaced it and now it's locked up after about 24 hours !!!


Rec/dryers were replaced each time. Is there a way to flush out the system to correct this or should I just give up. I realize buying used compressors is not the wisest thing, but am I having a tough time picking used ones or is there something the system that's causing this perhaps?

I don't mind fixing something, but numerous times?!

Myself, I have never had a used or rebuilt refrigeration compressor be worth the cost difference.

You need to flush the WHOLE system everytime there is a compressor failure, replace the orfice screen and receiver dryer. And quit buying someone else's junk. Are you adding oil with each replacement?

Yes they make cans of AC flush and you should be using them. Gotta get the metal form the failed compressors outta the system for a new comp to last.

A flush was never mentioned or was I billed for one, went to check old receipt, just r & r and charge + labor. Hmmmm.

Bill there is a block by the firewall.It acts like an orifice tube.I cant remember if they used an orifice tube that year or not.We always replaced the orifice as it has a fine screen to filter.Lots of places dont flush the system if the compressor didnt come apart inside.Most failures I did were bad clutches.Usually they cost as much as a reman compressor.Some you have to buy a complete compressor.They have flush kits at parts store.But you probally should clean the block on the firewall.They also can be replaced.Lines come off and it bolts to the evap connection.Its been a while since I tore one apart.Oh by the way reman compressors are usually a good buy.We used mostly 4 seasons.Rocky

1 - don't buy used a/c parts it's only asking for trouble.

2 - Replace the receiver drier

3 - Replace the orifice tube ( I don't think the 95's used an expansion valve in the system)

4 - Replace the condensor . they are a dual pass type that you will not get cleaned out no matter how hard you try

5 - avoid the cheap aftermkt compressors like a plague

Thanks Guys!!

From what I remember that uses an exspansion valve and not an orfice tube. If so then I would also replace the exspansion valve. Ron

You need to replace the condenser and evaporator. They can not be flushed and without doubt are contaminated after 3 compressor failures. The expansion valve is easy to check and clean, all the hoses need to be flushed too. Make sure the cooling fan comes on when it should. Fresh OE spec oil and NO STOP LEAK IN THE R-134a. No used or reman compressors, either. Not cheap or easy but you can do it right or do it over.

Ron I though they still had the Expansion valve.Like I said nothing wrong with a reman compressor as long as its a quality one.Ive replaced a few hundred and only had 1 bad one and it just leaked.Warranty covered it.Rocky

OK, going to replace the compressor, r/d, and the condensor. Already talked to someone about flushing it too.

Don't use the same AC mechanic.
Contamination is likely killing your compressors.
Add an extra filter in front of the compressor.
Never use used AC parts on something you plan on keeping.

- What everyone else said.

Don't use the same AC mechanic Already have someone else lined up


Add an extra filter in front of the compressor. Where are those available?


Never use used AC parts on something you plan on keeping

Lesson Learned

Is there an A/C clutch relay by any chance? I had one go out on another car and the compressor would run constantly until it locked the compressor up. If I shut the car off, sometimes it would keep power to the clutch...so if I disconnected the NEG and reconnected it I could hear a "click" everytime.

Bill we used to get filters from NAPA.I believe ant good parts store carries them.Make sure the lines get flushed also.Rocky

Let me add-into this AC topic ..... my 03 daily-driver has a decent working system on it but it could be better. Are there any quickie "kits" that can be injected into the system to make it better ?

The quick charge kits with the gauge are decent.If its low they usually drop the temp some.I found best to have the system evacuated and vacuum drawn.Then recharge with the proper charge.Rocky

Hay R .. are the kits cost effective ? ...or is the evac and vac a better deal ?.... what are the typical costs involved ?

The kits usually work decent if its just low.They all lose freon thru time and hoses,etc.Check the rad and condensor dosent have crap stuck to it.I usually turn on high and flush with cold water.You should feel the temp drop.Ive also seen a lot of older cars with contaminated freon.We always used a tester at work before we even touched a system.I had one the identifier said had benezyne etc in it.When you evac the stuff in the system goes into your tank and you dont want to contaminate a tank of clean stuff.We always used the stuff with dye in it.If there was or it develops a leak its easy to spot.Rocky

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

While were at it why not replace the whole car? the cost of the evap and condenser are more then the cars worth add on a new A/C comp clutch and coil I would not even bother I have successfully taken parts off of cars and reused them on current projects etc. Key here is being careful what you use A good flushing material and proper evacuation of system that few want to do because of the time involved

Paul, I drove older cars due to distance and roads. Don't condemn the car w/o seeing it. Except for the air issue, it's been trouble-free for 2+ years now. If it wasn't worth it, I'd not do it.