4-Speed Shifter Install Clearance Issues

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The Super Shifter did not have the reverse lockout lever. You had to push down on the shifter to get it in reverse. It was also spring loaded to the right while in neutral, great when speed shifting from 2-3, just shove it up & it went in. I remember the inline had a reverse lockout.

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Back when I converted my 87 Diplomat over to 4 speed (not available stock) I had to clearance the trans cross member too. Used a mix of A body and F/J/M body parts to do it and a new Hurst Indy shifter. No biggy, especially with aftermarket stuff not designed for the application.

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I've had to modify absolutely everything on this project. I'm not sure why I thought this would be any different.

I'll get it worked out, just takes time. The car is close to being on the road for the first time in nearly 12 years, so I'm getting a little impatient.

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Rhino, that is exactly what I did when I put the hump in. Evidently I didn't connect the linkage when I mocked everything up.

I have another thread going. I am really just trying to figure out what I have. The shifter is stamped Competition Plus, but with the reverse lockout makes me thing it is a Super Shifter, unless the CP shifter could be had with reverse lockout?

The shifter is mounted in the stock location with the aluminum plate.

The rods and levers look nothing like the factory stuff. The lever slots are a different angle than the factory, and the rods are obviously thicker.

So, I'm confused as to how the levers need to be installed, as since they are different than factory they might not attach the same way.

Maybe I'll give Jamie and/or Brewer's a call tomorrow.

The saga continues.

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Why change the rods? Rods are body specific all the mounting plate is going to do is slightly move the shifter mounting position, hopefully the floor hump is ok where it is.

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I'll only change the rods if I have to. I am hoping that the correct plate puts everything in the right position.

I am not sure where the rods came from, so I am not sure what body they are designed for (which is what started all of this...). I cannot locate the part numbers on the rods anywhere online.

Yeah... I hope the floor hump is in the right place too! I might just to to an auto if that is the case.

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The floor hump has nuttin to do w/the rod placement. If anything, the shifter plate might cure it, but I doubt it. You most likely have the incorrect rods. My

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The floor hump has nuttin to do w/the rod placement. If anything, the shifter plate might cure it, but I doubt it. You most likely have the incorrect rods. My

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I broke my shifter plate on my 67, No problem , I had a few extras around but the numbers were different, I tried them and either the shifter was to high or rotated so the linkage didn't work. Got the replacement from Brewer Perforemance, all is good.

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I am not sure where the rods came from, so I am not sure what body they are designed for (which is what started all of this...). I cannot locate the part numbers on the rods anywhere online.

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Hope you are not messing up the rods too bad, those are VERY hard to find, I know I have been searching for a set of those for two years now. When they were used on the factory Hemi Darts a special shifter plate was designed especially for those rods. The plate is documented in the Jim Schild guide to Hemi A-Body's.

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And you tell me this now? If I'd know that they would have been on Ebay for what is a good price, starting bid of 2 grand?

I took pics of them before. I've barely tweaked them. That is why I want to try the other plate. I didn't want to go crazy bending the rods all up nor do I want to cut the cross member more than I have to.

Thanks everyone.

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Since everyone on the edge of their seat with this thread...

Ordered the 67-up plate, will be here tomorrow. Started tweaking the rods last night, 1/2 is much better, but still needs more clearance. Now working on 3/4.

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Those are the heavy-duty Hurst linkages for race shifters, I have been looking for a set of those for a while now! Let me know if you want to trade for a factory set!

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Rhino, this statement above?

I'm sorry, I guess I misunderstood. I was supposed to understand by the above reply that these were Hemi Dart rods? Anything beyond the stock rods seem to be considered "heavy duty". That and the fact that you seem to know that there was a one-off plate for these rods was not mentioned until lately. Oh well.

Before I do anything else to these rods, *are* these original Hemi Dart rods or are they after market? I understand that since they are Hurst they are technically after market and not original Chrysler. I just want to understand their value. <jab>Probably a little more than the stock ones you wanted to trade me for?</jab>

John, yeah, I agree. I've barely messed with them. Over the years, it is hard to say if these were every tweaked before or not. Either way, 30 seconds and they are back to where there were. What I have done so far will only help with the new plate when comparing the mounting position against the one I have.

Brewers said I would have the plate today. I just want to drive this car...

Thanks guys.

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Looks like the 6350 plate moves the shifter up , back and out some . a stock set of rods would probably fix the clearance issues .

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Yep. It moves it around a good bit.

Yeah, probably correct on the stock rods. The hump location is still fine with the 6350 plate.

I've sent a PM to Gus. I have what I think a good neutral adjustment, but I am not able to move through the gears. Trans in neutral, and 3/16" allen wrench through slot and all three plates. Stick floats in neutral left to right.

Had my wife move 1/2 and 3/4 what little it will and the rods are not hitting anything or each other. Just seems like something is bound up. I can go into reverse and that locks the driveshaft, back out of reverse and into neutral can then spin the driveshaft again.

Just realized... maybe I need to readjust the stops? Gus adjusted them, but that was with the old 2298 and different rod adjustment...

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Well it's time to drop the rods off the transmission arms and try shifting the transmission through the gears with a wrench on the arms, they should move freely. if not you probably have a syncro problem.

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Get some oil in that thing and spin it. It WILL help. The stop rings and gears are unlikely to be lined up and unlikely to be forced into alignment dry.

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All the gears and sliders have some heavy assembly lube on them and some of the rings may be stuck to the hub on the gear.Make sure you push the clutch in before you try testing the shifter into the gears.
When you want to circulate the fluid put the trans into 4th gear,have someone hold the clutch in while you turn the driveshaft/wheels.That way it will coat the cluster and all the drive gears when they rotate through the lube.
I will call you tomorrow to see how it's going
Gus

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Good deal. I'm glad what I am seeing makes some sense. Onward and upward.

While we are on the topic of 4-speeds... , can I get GL-4 gear lube at an auto parts store? Was going to use synchromesh, but then I made the mistake of doing a search on the forum... lol. Was thinking about a mix of synchromesh and gear lube. Some have had issues with synchromesh leaking? I know some guys run ATF, but I am not interested in trying that. Just my preference I guess... seems like gear lube belongs in gear boxes. Again, I am probably over-analyzing.