will .484 284 purple cam work with power brakes and air

Will the P4120235 Cam work with power brakes and air condition?

Thanks

I used that cam in my 440 that I built for my '64 Polara. Unfortunately, I used the original '64 727 converter, a Dana 60 3.54 with 275/60/r15 tires and that made it a dog off the line. It also overheated in parade laps. I used the Stainless Steel Brake Manual master cylinder with the A-body disc brake conversion so that was not an issue. The answer I think is a looser converter (3000+)and more gear. With that you can have your A/C and power brakes. Good luck

I guess but it wouldn't be my 1st choice. Depends on the rest of the build. When I was younger and dumber I put a 509 cam in a 73 Cop 440. Thing ran ok, but you had one strong pedal and that was it. Very lazy from a dead stop too.....

I have the old 284/484 in my GTX and I have an extra vacuum reservoir and I still don't have crap for brakes at low speeds.

I ran a .590 cam with power brakes on my car with a 1050 dominator carb,I had 12* vacuum at idle and about 20* decellerating so my advice is you will be fine with the cam and tune the carb for best vacuum at idle and you will be fine.I have read that the vac brakes need 16in of vac to work.

I assume you are talking about the 108 LSA version. I think to answer this question we would have to know more about your setup.

Just as a point of reference, I have this cam (108LSA version) in a 416 SB stroker and I have power brakes and it works fine. I get about 14" of vacuum idling at 900-950rpms.

Your results will vary depending on your setup. I don't have AC so I can't comment on how this cam will work with AC. Others will have to chime in on that.

Well, I am trying to get a plan for my 1971 Roadrunner. I don't have matching# engine. What I do have is that cam mentioned in the title, a 62' 413 fresh bore .030 with low compression cast dish pistons, not built yet. I also have a 70' 383 needs rebuilt. I don't want anything crazy. Just a mild engine that would run on pump gas. Car will have 727 auto and 3.55 sure grip with 28 inch tire. Car will be used for fun, cruising around town, and to car shows. Looking for a good combination of medium power and mileage. Mileage not a big deal, just a thought. I have been told to put the 413 crank in my 383. Would 432 stroker be overkill for what I want? I am looking into 440source stealth heads, or just having the 906's rebuilt. Too many questions. I would really love some input from anybody that has actually done the 413/440 crank in a 383. Also some suggestions on a more modern cam that would work better for my setup, depending on whether I go with the 383, 413, or 432.

I forgot to add, looking at aftermarket aluminum intakes, using the HP cast manifolds, dual snorkel air cleaner, that I have.

Build my drivetrain, air cleaner to exhaust.

Thanks TONS!!

Getting an engine to make power and be fun to drive is all about the combination. Your combination of a 284/484, low compression dished pistons do not go together at all. You will have no fun with this car, it will be a drag to drive, low power, bad fuel mileage, and be a lazy pig, been there. You need more compression, buy different pistons. Also not the best cam for power brakes and street driving, the low end power suffers, but will pull great mid range and up, with 10:1 compression, and a stall converter.

413 crank in the 383 is a good thing to do, but it will cost some $$ for pistons, block prep, and balancing.

It's an old grind...

It needs compression and a gear...

Got one in an RB with 6-bbl. pistons, a 2800-stall converter and 3:91's in a '71 Ply B-body...

A solid 'old-school' combo...

No....

484/284 & AC & PB isn't a good combo, too much duration & overlap for good low-RPM manners. I ran that cam in a 383 and it wanted a loose converter & more gear. Once it got some RPM, it was strong, but at low RPM not so much. The Engle grind I used in a 406" SB with AC & PB was 214/224 & .470/.504, CL was 110 or 112, and it pulled strongly, had great throttle response, 17" vacuum. Had a healthy sound.
I'd do something like that, Stealths, 9.5:1, either crank. If you want to sell off the 413, it's worth a bit more with its proper crank, but the extra stroke would provide more no-fuss torque in the 383. Look at Ross, JE, Wiseco & 440Source for pistons. IIRC Stealths are 80cc chambers. Use the FelPro 1009 composite .039" head gasket, get the pistons near zero deck, have the assy balanced.

Love your answer

If I just rebuild the 383, .030 over, stock crank/rods(reconditioned), stealth heads, performer rpm(or just plain performer intake), cast HP manifolds. Is there a source for good pistons for it?

I've used the brands I've mentioned (440Source being redundant but a good piston chart); there are some really sharp engine guys in the Race section who are also parts sources.

I bought a 65 coronet a few years ago. car had no brakes after a rebuilt 440 installed,then he went through the entire brake system,no brakes-got frustrated- I bought the car,replaced the mopar 484 cam with a more modern style cam. brake problem solved. The 484 cam did not produce enough vacuum for power brakes.(played with carb and timing first though)3 different booster were tried. Other option is to install a stand alone vacuum pump. gm motor homes and some early 80's 4 bangers engines used one.aftermarket pumps are about $250-$300. maybe a manual trans would behave different?

Yes it will !!
all I will say,

I've got the .484 cam in the 440 in the challenger. 10.2:1 with Edelbrock 84cc RPM heads, trw six-pack pistons. Have it installed 4 degrees advanced, 3.91's, 2500 converter. No issues with the stock power brake setup on the 74 challenger.

I don't think it is an ideal cam for your setup.

But.. if you want to run it, you could always install an electric vacuum pump to keep the brakes working. About $270.

Electric Vacuum pump

Sure I ran huge cams with my power brakes and that is just a baby.
Run a 7/8" master cylinder degree the cam in at 102 and have the in gear idle at about 1000 and you will be fine. Running a 509 or 484 is all about degreeing them in right 3000 stall full advance by 1500 (or less) and 1000 idle in gear.

This is how i built my dads 383 for a 68 charger with air and 727 trans.
1. 383 .030 over with kb 400 pistons.
2. stock steel crank and rods turned .010/.010 under
3. rods reconditioned with arp bolts .
4. deck hight corrected to .004 piston in the hole .
5. ballanced rotating assy.
6. out the box edelbrocks rpm heads .84cc chamber
7 .performer rpm intake
8. Comp cam HL275 cam with .525 lift
9. Crane gold rockers and aftermarket spacers
10.smith bros pushrods 8.25in leangth ball and cup
11.compression 10.2 to 1 pump 93 gas.
12.mp distributor with total limited to 34 deg .all in by 2000.
with vacuum advacnce connected .
13 .holley hp 750 vac secondary carb with no mods out of the box new
14. ptc 3000 stall .converter
15. tf1 shift kit in rebulit 727 trans with good koleen steels and red altos clutches type f fluid.
16 .clutch type sure grip 3:55 gear in the 8&3/4 rear end.
Car ripps a$$ will due block long posi burnouts from a standing still punch of the go pedal and feels like has unlimited top end power !
you cant drive the car to the top speed because it just gets scary ove 120mph
but all of this work i did my self for about 8 grand and change in the motor trans.
Dad has a car that has aprox 425 hp.and very driveable with ac on
pulls 13inches of vacuum but we do have a vacuum resivoir on the brakes .
pm me if you have any questions would be glad to tell you more about the setup.

Many years ago I built a 383 with 12.5 comp and used an Isky hyd cam with .500 lift and 300 degrees of duration - installed straight up. It wasn't the most "street friendly" cam but it had no problem running the power brakes. I ran a 4-speed with a 3.23 gear behind it.

The TUNE UP has a lot to do with whether it will work.

A friend had that cam in his '70 Cuda with a 440, Edelbrock RPM heads, 727, 4.10 gear.

I run a couple tenths faster in the 1/8 with stock 452 heads, a 3.91 gear, and a car that weighs 200 pounds more but with a different cam. His car should have been way faster than mine because of the heads alone but wasn't. I've always wondered if it was that 484 cam or maybe something else???

I had that cam in a mostly stock 70 440HP motor, it sounded great at the drive in, work OK with the power brakes and A/C.
Parallel parking was not real fun tho..
with stock convertor and 4.10 gear the car was way soft off the line and not much fun to drive..
I would up putting in the .471 street Hemi grind and it was a lot more fun and way faster in real world...

Install a 3000 rpm converter and 3.91's. Convert to manual brakes and roll the windows down and enjoy the drive.

Just my $.02 worth.
Digger73

For 20 years, on my 69GTX, I have been running a .484 lift/226 degree cam with Rhoades lifters, it has A/C and P/B. 9.7:1 with stock converter. Idles great and always has good brakes.

THat cam is great with a stick but unless conv is 4000 stall I would not suggest it especially in a small block. Comp 280 -480 is a much better and makes more power down low and is reasonable price wise

or MP 280-474?