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E body caster

Posted By: cdstl

E body caster - 11/25/12 01:07 AM

I'm putting the front end back together on a 72 E body and I am wondering about the caster adjustment. I assume the strut rod is what sets the caster but the FSM has torque setting for each nut. I thought that maybe you would tighten the frame nut more or less to pull the LCA forward or aft, but with torque specs it has me wondering. Other than adjustable strut rods, how is it done?

Thanks
Posted By: 5spdcuda

Re: E body caster - 11/25/12 01:29 AM

The factory brake reaction struts don't set castor. Castor and camber are set with the adjusting cams on the upper control arms. Aftermarket adjustable struts can be used to assist or modify castor. Good strut bushings are essential to maintaining proper toe in. When using aftermarket struts don't go crazy with the adjustment or you will put the lower control arm bushings in a bind.
Posted By: cdstl

Re: E body caster - 11/25/12 02:07 AM

It is plain to see how camber is adjusted with the cams but how is the caster adjusted?

Thanks
Posted By: jt4406

Re: E body caster - 11/25/12 02:27 AM

Moving the front cam out and the back cam in will make caster more positive(tilts the spindle backward), moving the rear cam out and the front cam in will make the caster more negative(tilts the spindle forward), moving both cams out makes camber more positive (usually without changing caster), moving both cams in makes camber more negative (again, usually without changing caster).
jt
Posted By: cdstl

Re: E body caster - 11/25/12 05:41 AM

OK then. I have been ciphering on this one for some time and would have never guessed. The FSM doesn't go into detail on this.

Thanks
Posted By: RapidRobert

Re: E body caster - 11/25/12 03:57 PM

torque each end of the strut rods to specs then with the nuts on the front of the LCA tapered stud on each side lightly snugged and the cam bolts lightly snugged set the ride height with the torsion bars where YOU want it with your weight in barbells in the dr seat and a half tank of gas on level ground & jounce it after each adjustment. You want the front tire/fender clearance to look right for your preference. Then turn both cams till the top of the spindles are as far rearward as they will go then turn the rear cam opposite till the tire is vertical (camber), do both sides then lock down the cam bolt nuts and the LCA tapered stud nuts then adj the tie rod sleeves till the toe in is straight ahead with the steering wheel centered. go for a short drive to settle the T bars then recheck/adj the ride height and loosen the tapered stud nuts/cam nuts first if more adjusting is needed then adj/tighten then drive or tow to the alignment shop & outside the shop loosen the tapered LCA front stud nuts to lightly snugged and the cam bolts the same or make sure he does that first as an inexperienced guy may not then drive it in & on the rack & as you exit the vehicle pull the barbells on the pass seat back over to the drivers seat. Tell him the ride height is already set & to leave it as is but he can SLIGHTLY adj them to be equal if need be. Ahead of time make an appointment & ask them to assign their most experienced guy to do it & slip him a twenty to get it perfect & tell him you want as much positive caster as he can with it equal on both sides with 0-.5 neg camber & 1/8 toe in & to lock the cam bolts TIGHT when he's done.
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