Eddy RPM heads and stock rocker assembly

Guys,

I am putting my 440 back together. I have Eddy RPM heads with a Comp XE268H cam (around 0.480) lift.

I can run my stock rocker assemblys, correct? I don't need an adjustable assembly for a cam that small, do I?

Thanks.

Greg

I have stock rockers on the Eddies on my 451 with.510 lift....no
problems.

Been working for me. Everything seems to fit and clear. Never gave it another thought.

Interesting. I have a set of 60779 smallblock RPMs and I assumed I wouldn't be able to get proper preload without custom length pushrods. Maybe I ASSumed too much? Don't the eddy's use a taller (chevy?) length valve or something? I am running a PRW stainless set of rockers.

Good point on the preload.

It will depend on many things, the head gaskets, block, heads, cam, lifters.

The preload can be easily checked by putting a piece of tape on the pushrod and marking it with the shaft tightened 1) with the slack taken out and 2) fully, which should put preload on the lifter. The difference is the amount of preload.

Definitely check it. I had too much and it was causing valvetrain noise, and probably a performance decrease too. Up to about .070" is OK from what I read.

If the preload is OK, yes that cam will work fine with stock rockers. I am using a .509 cam with stock rockers and eddy heads on a 440.

You should measure the preload when the valve is fully closed. If you spin the engine to TDC of the power stroke of a cylinder, both valves will be closed.

It's probably better to check at least 1 cylinder on each side, but one side might do.

For #1, rotate the engine towards the point where you can't move or spin the intake pushrod, and the exhaust pushrod spins. Keep rotating towards the 0 mark on the balancer/timing cover, when you get there, both pushrods should spin since both valves are closed.

When I measured, I used a piece of blue painter's tape on the pushrod, and used the surface where the valve cover attaches, as the marking point where I used a razor blade (just the blade, so it sits flat against the head surface) to put a soft mark in the tape. Do it once where everything is torqued down, and once where you have just tightened to the point that the pushrod doesn't freely move up and down. The difference is the preload on the lifter.

Even a non primed lifter will have a spring hard enough that the pushrod can sit on the seat without pushing it down any.

Quote:

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Do it once where everything is torqued
down, and once where you have just tightened to the point that the pushrod doesn't freely move up and down.

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Okay, this is part that is still confusing me.
When you say "tightened to the point the pushrod doesn't freely move up and down" , does that mean I am loosening the rocker arm, then tightening to some point less than fully torqued?

Sorry, this is my first motor, I can't afford to screw it up