front suspension evaluation

Previously, I've just bought a full kit and rebuilt regardless, this round, finances have changed and I need to watch my dollars. How should I evaluate the condition of the front suspension (car isn't running, yet. How do I check tie rod ends, ball joints bushings, etc to tell if I should start saving for needed parts ? 95,000 miles on a 73 Roadrunner.

My front suspension has been serviceable for the past couple of years but I knew it was due. What I did was buy a few parts at a time as I could afford them.

Rock Auto carries Moog and there is always a discount code in the new products section.

I would watch for wholesaler closeouts and buy at close to half the cost. I now have all the parts needed for this winter! I listed all the Moog part numbers I needed an checked them off over time with 90% on closeout deals.

I was trying to avoid an unnecessary full rebuild - just asking advise on evaluating what may or may not be needed.

Tires are going to be a bigger cost than bushings so I would replace anything that is old, worn or cracked,which should be everything on that car.

Jack the front up in the air so the tires can hang down.

Grab the tire on the left and right side and slightly wobble it back and forth. (like steering the car movement)

Feel to see how much give it has, and watch the tie rod ends, pitman, and idler arm for movement as well. Should not see them rocking in and out/back and forth basically.

Then grab the tire from the top and bottom and rock it in and outward. (pull out on the top and push in on the bottom, and visa versa) and feel for movement and slop in the ball joints that way.. again, should feel firm with no extra wobble/movement to it. You could also get someone to look at the ball joints from behind the wheel to watch for movement if you can't see as you rock the tire around.

Do you really want to mix new pieces with other components that have almost 100k on em'???

And are nearly 40 years old???

Procure the necessary coin, then do it all...

Control arm bushings should have all their rubber present, with little or no sign of cracking. The inner and outer sleeves should be ABSOLUTELY concentric. Squeaking or groaning is a good indication that something might be amiss.

Ball joints need to be unloaded to be tested. Unload the LBJ by jacking as far outboard as possible on the LCA. The ball joint should exhibit no movement up and down when prying under the tire. It should also show no lateral movement when yanking on the tire top & bottom. Do not confuse wheel bearing looseness for ball joint looseness when doing this.

The UBJ carries little to no load. A quality piece may well outlast an LBJ of the same quality and age. Look for the same kinds of excess movement (especially lateral movement) as described above.

Tie rod ends are miniature ball joints. They should exhibit no lateral movement relative to where they attach when the force is applied outward from the steering wheel, or when the force is applied inward by grasping a jacked-up tire and moving it side to side. Do not confuse wheel bearing looseness for tie rod looseness when doing this. The TRE should also not be compressible with the strength in the typical adult male hand, when squeezing with the palm under the TRE and the fingers wrapped up around and beside the castle nut.

Test tie rod-like joints similarly, be they on the pitman arm or idler arm. The frame pivot of the idler should move in the arc in which it was designed to move, but with no up/down movement.

All dust boots should be in place, without cracking or tears. Their job is not only to contain any overflow grease, but also to keep the outside environment outside.

Strut rod [aka brake control rod] bushings should be without cracks and should exhibit no looseness whatsoever in the up-down or side-to-side axis. Under braking, the road wheel should show no discernible movement in the wheel well.

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All dust boots should be in place

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