Long wheel stud question?

Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 12:59 AM

Hey guys i want to switch over to long wheelstuds on the rear of my car. Im running an 8 3/4 in my 66 coronet. Not sure how to go about finding the right ones. Which ones do you suggest?....Joe

Posted By: FASTBACK340

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 02:11 AM

I just installed a set of Moroso 2 3/4" studs on my car. I pulled the axles and used the hydraulic press at work. The axles must come out, so you might as well re-pack the wheel bearings and swap out the axle seals. The means draining the rear so don't forget the sure grip additive and gear oil. I bought a nice hand pump at Auto Zone that screws onto the bottle and makes filling the rear a breeze. Also make sure you use anti-seize on the wheel studs & lug nuts. As for the actual selection of what to buy, most catalogs walk you through the choices.

Posted By: 67dodge67

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 02:17 AM

Quote:

Hey guys i want to switch over to long wheelstuds on the rear of my car. Im running an 8 3/4 in my 66 coronet. Not sure how to go about finding the right ones. Which ones do you suggest?....Joe

Contact Dr. Diff on here. He is a member on Moparts and is extremely well known.

Dave

Posted By: therocks

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 11:28 AM

No need to drain the rear as the center section dosent come out.Installed the Moroso studs in my 65 and the kids 62 with newer rear end.You can actually install them by just knocking the axle studs out first.Then loosen the axle nuts and pull them out a bit.Install the new studs and use an old nut reversed with washers under it.Pull the studs thru the axle end and you are done.No press needed.On mine I needed to pull the axles all the way out so I used a deep well socket under the axle flange and the stud went in it and I just smacked them into the axle.Been 10 years and no problems.Did the same with the fronts.Rocky

Posted By: FASTBACK340

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 12:03 PM

Maybe I should have clarified my post:

The CORRECT way to install axle studs, especially when the opening on my A body axles is .680 and the replacement studs are .720, is with a press. No need to stress-test the studs and pull them through over-tightening the stud with a socket jammed over it. It lasted 10 yrs? Good for you.

And yes, if you pull both axles, it will leak out. Or you can wait until it's dripping and go look for a pan. Or just let it drip while you hammer in the studs....

Posted By: rbstroker

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 12:44 PM

Quote:

No need to drain the rear as the center section dosent come out.Installed the Moroso studs in my 65 and the kids 62 with newer rear end.You can actually install them by just knocking the axle studs out first.Then loosen the axle nuts and pull them out a bit.Install the new studs and use an old nut reversed with washers under it.Pull the studs thru the axle end and you are done.No press needed.On mine I needed to pull the axles all the way out so I used a deep well socket under the axle flange and the stud went in it and I just smacked them into the axle.Been 10 years and no problems.Did the same with the fronts.Rocky

I did my '65 exactly the same way the Rocks did using the proper size studs (two different shoulder sizes are available). I seem to remember that mine were Mr. Gasket.

Posted By: FASTBACK340

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 01:02 PM

.040 difference is the closest you come with A body axles. Instead of trying to pull the studs through by over-tightening them I'm positive it's better to use a press. But I've only been wrenching for 35 yrs. and haven't seen much.

But at the end of the day again, different people, different methods. What ever works for you. I was just trying to help (what sounded like...) a novice asking for advice. I try not to give short-cut, pound-it-in advice. Us pro's can do that...

Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 02:01 PM

You need to verify the diameter of the shoulders on your studs in your axles, have one removed and measure the shoulder. Mr Gasket and Moroso use to sell them, probally still do

I've done several stock axles over the years, it is not easy but can be done as already mentioned on here, several viable options are safe

Posted By: redex79

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 02:19 PM

Quote:

Hey guys i want to switch over to long wheelstuds on the rear of my car. Im running an 8 3/4 in my 66 coronet. Not sure how to go about finding the right ones. Which ones do you suggest?....Joe

I did the same thing. Got the knurl size and matched it to Moroso 3" wheel stud part number 46190. Stock wheel stud for my 66 Belvedere with a 361 was .673, moroso size for there part was .685.

Posted By: topside

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 05:29 PM

FWIW, unless your wheel center thickness requires it, a somewhat shorter stud (like 2") makes it easier to get the wheels on/off in tight confines. I prefer the dog-point style to the fully threaded, as the nuts are easier to start and much less prone to garfed threads.

Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 05:47 PM

Quote:

FWIW, unless your wheel center thickness requires it, a somewhat shorter stud (like 2") makes it easier to get the wheels on/off in tight confines. I prefer the dog-point style to the fully threaded, as the nuts are easier to start and much less prone to garfed threads.

Yup I have like 3" on my car, 2" would be better.

When I put mine in I pulled the axles and took one out and measured it and got them from a auto parts store. At the time Dorman was selling them.

I would not use Moroso or MP because of the stories I have been hearing about galling.

Buy the best ones you can and not from the above venders, imo.

Posted By: DoctorDiff

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 05:48 PM

The only long wheel studs the fit correctly are made by Mr Gasket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-4311/

Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 05:52 PM

Quote:

The only long wheel studs the fit correctly are made by Mr Gasket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-4311/

Thanks for your post, do the Mr Gasket studs gall like some of them?

Posted By: DoctorDiff

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 06:00 PM

Moroso studs are notorious for galling. I haven't heard of a problem with Mr Gasket.

Anti-seize never hurts, however.

Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 06:01 PM

Thank you

Posted By: DoctorDiff

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 06:17 PM

ARP and Milodon studs are good quality, but their knurl diameter distorts the axle when installing.

Posted By: 70Cuda383

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 07:08 PM

Quote:

Buy the best ones you can and not from the above venders, imo.

Any reason why you suggest to not buy from the above mentioned vendors like doc diff? Or did you mean something else?

Posted By: AndyF

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 07:55 PM

Dorman studs are the way to go if you just want a little extra length.

Be very careful when selecting aftermarket studs. Most of them do not fit on a Mopar regardless of what the mfg says. The axles usually need to be reamed out to work properly with aftermarket 3 inch wheel studs.

Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 08:59 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Buy the best ones you can and not from the above venders, imo.

Any reason why you suggest to not buy from the above mentioned vendors like doc diff? Or did you mean something else?

I meant MP or Moroso because of my experience with MP and what Dr Diff has told us about Moroso.

Posted By: topside

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/09/12 10:54 PM

Another thing: I bought a set of the Summit studs a while back, and had to chase the threads on several of them with a die to get the threads happy.
I always use a small dab of anti-sieze on lug threads.

Posted By: therocks

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 09/10/12 02:32 PM

I know at work when you replace a stud you pull the axles or bearings on new cars and press them in .Ive been wrenching since the 60s and as a Master tech for over 30 years.Ive never seen anyone take say a frt hub bearing out to replace a stud.Just smack them out and use an inverted lug and washers to pull the new one in.Thats on cars that get wheels taken off all the time and see a 100K miles.Never had one break or stretch.I also use antisieze.Best stuff ever made.I believe I used Mr Gaskets on our cars for the rears and Moroso for the frt disc.If you pull the axles one at a time just stuff a rag in the end and no oil comes out.I have 2 pieces of plastic that fit the ends so if any oil is there it stops it.Rocky

Posted By: pishta

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 12/14/20 02:24 AM

You all know the factory studs are swedged in and taking them out the back is gonna jack the factory knurl up as the swedge is a fatter area of the stud that keeps it from pulling out. You need to cut the heads off the back and drive whats left out through the front, or use a swedge cutter and reduce the swedge to less than the knurl diameter. Remember that there are 7/16 studs for the 5 on 4 8 3/4 too so putting a 1/2-20 stud as the replacement part number for this title is misleading unless you state that its for the LBP axles.

Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 12/14/20 03:11 AM

Originally Posted by pishta

You all know the factory studs are swedged in and taking them out the back is gonna jack the factory knurl up as the swedge is a fatter area of the stud that keeps it from pulling out. You need to cut the heads off the back and drive whats left out through the back, or use a swedge cutter and reduce the swedge to less than the knurl diameter. Remember that there are 7/16 studs for the 5 on 4 8 3/4 too so putting a 1/2-20 stud as the replacement part number for this title is misleading unless you state that its for the LBP axles.

The only swedge studs I've seen or dealt with where on the early cars with left hand studs on the driver side of the cars on the front and rear brake drums on the tapered axles. Mopar stopped using the tapered axles in 1965 and stop using the left hand studs in 1971 or 1972 ,I think :confused
OP, I have had small bolt pattern 8 3/4 axles drilled and tap for screw in 1/2 inch long wheel studs, Mr. Gasket and Moroso use to make and sell them

There is not enough meat on those axles to drill and push in a regular 1/2 inch stock Mopar wheel stud so the smaller 1/2 diameter screw in stud is the only choice on converting the early A body 8 3/4 stock axles to 4 1/2 inch pattern

I ran them in a BB Duster for a lot of years before breaking a lot of the 8 3/4 parts inside and bending the crap out of the stock unbraced housing

Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Long wheel stud question? - 12/20/20 12:24 AM

Thread is 8 years old