1972 Radiator advice?... for an "odd vehicle"

Hey folks, the 413 in my 72 has been running at about 215+ rollin down the highway. Replaced the thermostat, replaced the clutch fan, added "water wetter", etc.. etc... It has the original radiator in it and Im fairly certain its stopped up.

So, the question... Have a custom (yes it will probably have to be custom) aluminum radiator made or take the old one to a shop to be rodded out? I think "long term" the aluminum is the way to go.

Vehicle is my 1972 Rectrans Discoverer 25 motor home on a Dodge M350 Chassis with the stock 413 and Loadflite trans.

Laine.

Oh yeah, the numbers on the radiator....

18398 is on the pass. side, then there is a tag soldered to the top drivers side that has 5626292. A "stock replacement" is an option too if I can find one!

So far, my searching has found nothing.

Laine.

rodding out can & has worked but is risky. I'd myself go ahead & get a good new one for peace of mind (& it'll cool better)

Considering how hard this thing is to get in and out I tend to agree. If I go with a custom made aluminum I can have it made to fit a bit easier.

How can I find a OEM replacement? Ive been searching the numbers and cant find squat. Of course, searching the vehicle is nearly pointless too.

Laine.

Have a new, modern core put in your original rad. Tell the rad shop that you want a good quality core with large tubes though. A lot of the aluminum rads are of poor quality and will have fitment and longevity issues.

Sheldon

Sheldon is right

Hmm, original lasted 40 years, how long term do you think an aluminum one will be?

Did you attempt a flush at all?

Didnt attempt a flush, it is a HUGE pain to get it in and out, so its a one shot one kill kinda deal.

I plan to make a couple calls on Tuesday morning and see how quick I can have something made, and how much it will cost. At the same time, the original will be at a radiator shop for a "repair" assessment.

Laine.

Any good rad shop should be able to recore the original rad as long as the tanks are good. Like Sheldon says, just get them to recore it with a modern, "high efficiency" core and call it a day. Probably be cheaper than an aluminum one and bolt right in no worries.

Roger that.

Did you remove some of the duct tape on the grille used for qualifying?

I would of the 3 options, I lean towards recoring, but I not convinced your overheating is the radiator, and especially if it is that big of deal to remove and replace in the first place, but that is spilled milk at this point.

If it's the original 40 year old rad core I wouldn't expect it to not be plugged. BTW I assume the fan shroud is there? Also, is it possible to pop the core plugs out of the block and heads? I would want to replace them if possible and check/flush the block at the same time.

Sheldon

Ahhh! The duct tape! I knew I forgot something! Oh, and yes, it has a shroud.

Im about 90% certain the radiator is the problem. This beast purrs like a kitten with an Edelbrock 750 on top and a K&N. Didnt burn 1/2 a quart of oil on a 1200 mile trip, and that was at 210+ degrees the entire way. I cant see any leaks anywhere, and it starts instantly just by looking at the key with a stern look.

Really needs a set of headers on it though and some new exaust. Anyone got some big block headers layin around? Im all small blocks except this monster.

The problem with the removal is hard to explain... however, I'll try. The radiator sits about 24" back from the grill. In that space there are two sheetmetal "boxes" about 14" x 12" basically behind the headlights. They are about 2" too narrow for the giant radiator to fit between. I removed one, but the other cant be removed. Well, the radiator mounting tabs are actually the problem. Other than that, it was simple. Remove two cross bars, 4 bolts and the hoses and it was pretty much loose. Although, the lower hose is not easy. Sits right over top of the cross member. It weighs 40lbs plus too.

After removing it, looking inside, it looks "rough". Plenty of scale inside. I'll try to get a pic of this big old radiator and an under the hood pic of the motor home posted.

Laine.

We now make a bolt in aluminum radiator for the Rectrans Discoverer with the 413. These are hand made here in the USA, all TIG welded, with NO epoxy or glue:



Here is a link to them on our site:
http://rndfabrication.com/Rectrans.html

210* is not running hot.

on this type of set-up, ideally you should be running around 180-190 during summer, and maybe a hair above if you are pulling a large hill.

Like Sheldon said to do, I like to have mine re-cored.

Usually the tanks are fine and I have them put the biggest core I can get in the tanks. My 318 Satellite has a larger care than a 440 car came with and it never overheats.

Over the long term aluminum can last but make sure to get a sacrificial anode in it.

If you want to stay with a factory set up, and what that means is, everything fits like it's supposed to. Then send it to Glen Ray radiators. They are wonderful to work with, and will do a top job.

Does anyone know if the radiators in the Rectrans are the same as the standard Dodge vans of the same era?

Just wanted to chime in to say that thing is so COOL! I love it.

I was also wondering if 210 was too hot.

Quote:

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I was also wondering if 210 was too hot.

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210° degrees at a steady cruise is a bit warm. On the highway with a good breeze, temperature should ideally be no more than 185°.

Problem with 210° at a steady cruise means if you start to put any load on it, or need to climb a hill, you have less (what I call "Head Room") once it starts to heat up. The hotter you run, the less cooling efficiency you have. Meaning the hotter it gets, the longer it'll take to cool down.