Need 383 help BAD!

Given that you got the car back running like crap, I would guess a bunch of things, most of whcih were mentioned here already. First, are you sure they broke in the cam properly? I assume hydraulic flat tappets. Did they use ZDDP additive or breakin oil? You may want to pull valve covers and look into the engine to see if you can verify you don't have wiped lobes already. It may be beneficial to make sure all the push rods are seated too. You didn't mention if you had an oil pressure gage and what it was reading. I have been able to pull lifters out using a small extension magnet (like Harbor Freight sells). You need to pull rocker shaft and push rods. The magenet fits into the push rod pocket and you can pull it out. Take a look at the lobe and bottom of lifter for proper wear. Do one at a time so you don't mix them up. I use the pick tool up to drop the lifter back into the bore and a thin wooden stick (marshmellow sticks in my case) to hold lifter back in bore while pulling magnet off the lifter.

Second, get the No.1 cylinder to TDC, verify timing mark, and pull distributor. The slot in the distributor gear should run along the axis of the cam. It may be off a tooth. You can compensate for that by rotating the distributor, but you will run out of timing adjustment as the vacuum advance can will hit the manifold or water neck before getting good adjustment. So getting it lined up is just good practice. With the slot orientated along the axis of the cam, the distributor rotor should be pretty close to No.1 cylinder on the cap (or 180 deg off, rotate as necassary). Some caps have two No.1s as mentioned. I think you want the one that is toward the cylinder head, not the one pointing towards the carb. If you have a manual (even a Chiltons) you will see what I mean.

OK, with that set, check the firing order on the wires and plugs. Sounds like you got it, but it never hurts to double check. At this point, I usually find an extra set of hands to start the car while I twist the distriubutor a tad to start the car up. I recurved my distributor to get me about 5 deg BTDC (IIRC) at 500 RPM, with full advance of 36 deg at 3000 rpm. I am not sure of initial, but I am sure of my full in. You will have to play with the distributor to get things initially started. Recurving is for another thread once you get this running.

The cam change will probably necessitate some carb changes. I'd think at a minimum idle misture screws and power valve. Once you get the idle and off idle set, go run it to see if you lean out to check main jets. Checking for vacuum leaks before making adjustments is key.

As I am mostly a pessimist, my guess is that your cam is wiped out. If they didn't change the oil (as you indicate by having same filter), I doubt they did anything to add proper protection on start up. And if its running like crap, I would bet they didn't run it in properly. Good luck.

Sorry if this is a repeat, on. A mobile and cant read the whole thread. Anyway, remember that bb fire counter clockwise, they may have the firing order right but have it in the wrong rotation. As stated but some glimpses ive scene start with the basics. Basic timing, baseline the carb, go from there.

This is all under the category of "I second that emotion"....

> Sprocket / chain a tooth off - my #1 hunch.

> Lobe(s) wiped (cut open oil filter and you'll know)

Rick

Could be:

1) Unattached vacuum line(s)
2) Intake leak
3) Distributor installed incorrectly (timing problem)
4) Cam timing off
5) Wiped cam lobe(s)

Do these guys regularly do this type of work?
Is this a professional Auto repair shop?
What is their experiance with classic musle mopars?
Which "484" cam is it?
What was the cost for the labor?

UPDATE!!!

I just got home from work and started the car up and it took forever to warm up. Idled barely at 600 RPM. So I throw a timing light on and check the timing. Would you all believe it was so retarded that the timing notch on the balancer was below the timing tab!!! I'm guessing at least 15 degrees or more AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER!!!! How on earth could a reputable performance shop leave it like that??? I advanced it just to get to 0 degrees and it already seems much more responsive, albeit just revving a little in the garage. I'm letting it cool down now and I'm gonna change the plugs and I have to wait until my wife gets home so she can crank it while I feel for the air coming out of cylinder number one, then I'll go from there. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is the problem!!

It is the 241 @ .050", 484 lift hydraulic. And yes, this shop had about 5 different muscle cars that they were working on, plus mine. They have been around for a while and were even on Garage TV at one time. But they won't be seeing me anymore i can tell you that!

Add anorther 12* of timing at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected and I'll bet you'll be happy. You might want to invest in a dialback timing light instead of another timing tape. They aren't all that expensive and are very useful.

I got the original version with the 108 LSA. I also read several places that a dial back timing light isn't accurate with the MSD because of the multiple spark discharge. I do have one though. Maybe I'll give it a try. I just removed all of the plugs and I found it strange that all of the plugs in cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 were fouled and all of the plugs in cylinders 2,4,6 and 8 looked good. Whats going on there? Also I found the wire on cylinder 6 that the geniuses put on right snug up against the header pipe and burned all the way down to the nylon braiding. And on and on it goes.....