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interesting, i thought the twisting was caused by the engine 'lifting' that side of the car not the wheels??
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do the connectors serve to evenly distribute that energy? does it stop the drivers side of the engine from lifting that side of the car? isn't that what is actually causing the body twist?
Quote:this is exactly what i thought would happen and if both of us are wrong i'm sure someone will chime in..... nicely
Not an engineer or drag racer, but here is my take on it.
Even in a stock vehicle, torque tries to twist the body, left front up.
In most cars the body absorbs this by flexing, sort of why there is all those squeaks and groans in a well used car.
Any stiffening of the body will work to transfer this twist to the right rear (opposite corner). Watch a stock body leave the line. I have seen some leave/twist enough to crack a windshield.
Stiffen things up, the twist goes away, the front of the car rises, rears are planted more squarely.
The energy is being now transferred into lifting the front as the body tries to rotate around the axle. Dissipated when the front settles.
The tighter things are the more of your torque is used to make things move.
Cornering energy sort of the same thing, taking the twist out will help plant the tires and make the suspension work. The energy comes from the compressing suspension...
Had an old Impala winter beater once that was so loose it broke the windshield just banging snow banks...of course that was due to advanced state of slow combustion, aka rust.
I'm sure I missed something...and just as sure someone will straighten me out.
Quote:interesting, i wondered why some seem more level/straighter than others. the next part of my question is real vague but i'll ask. at what point (1/4 mile time) is it more important to have connectors? a 14 sec car would have little to no use for this mod and probably not 13 to 12. but a low 12 to high 11 car would benefit? reason for ask is my car is currently a mid 12 car,b-body, 3500lbs, with 29x15x15 tires. i've made changes that i hope will put me in the high 11's. would i see enough of a benefit to justify the cost for something i might do once or twice a year?
Actually, stiffening the body pushes the twist forward. That's why a car with good connectors and a cage will pull the wheels level instead of left higher.
The drive shaft rotates clockwise looking from the front of the car,or CCWlooking from the rear of the car driving the left side(drivers) tire into the ground, the right side of the axle gets lifted up allowing it let the passenger side tire spin, if it is not a spool. That also transfer energy to the left front at the same time 
When the leaf spring is hit with the accelertion and twisting of the axles and housing it trys to lift the back of the car up, which helps lift the front up at the same time. A good set of sub frame connectors will help do all of that better 
BTW, you may or may not see a measurable difference in 60 ft times,but I would look real closley at the reaction times before and after
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frame connectors are supposed to stop the body from twisting under hard acceration, right?
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Stiffen things up, the twist goes away, the front of the car rises, rears are planted more squarely.
The energy is being now transferred into lifting the front as the body tries to rotate around the axle. Dissipated when the front settles.
The tighter things are the more of your torque is used to make things move.
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at what point (1/4 mile time) is it more important to have connectors? a 14 sec car would have little to no use for this mod and probably not 13 to 12. but a low 12 to high 11 car would benefit?