440 Source Stealth aluminum heads - any good?

this is getting sooooo old

They better be good I just got mine!

still waiting for an answer on what people think of these heads since they have now been out for several months.

I have not used them and in fact I have 906 iron heads on my 63 but from what I have heard they are a great deal for the price. They are just about the same as the Eddy heads and should work good on a motor up to 600 hp with some work. They are definetly better then 40 year old factory iron heads. I would not hesitate to use them on a nice bigblock build for a street car as you cant beat the price. Ron

I think they're a case of 'good news is no news'.

Buy the CNC version. Upgrade the locks and retainers and you should be ready to make some pretty good power.

Stock wise they aren't much better than factory heads, but they respond very well to porting. My guy that does my porting is getting 326 out of them. So I say stock for stock go with the Edelbrocks, but if a full port job is planed save a few bucks and by the stealths.

G-bob has a set for the wifes car seem to be as good as RPMs OOTB

i am happy with mine, i upgraded locks and retainers and no complaints at all

Mine are working fine also.Been on for 3 months.I also upgraded to dual springs and locks and retainers.My machinist also back cut the valves because he is a perfectionest.They will get ported in the future.Rocky

440Source has the CNC heads on their website. You could also send the heads to Modern Cylinder Head in MI for the porting if you already have the heads.

Myself, I have found that like any other head you by, they normally require a good valve job and that's about it. Maybe an upgrade to 10 degree locks & keepers. Mine are in the shop right now, but here are a few comments from a friend of mine...
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I did a good 3 angle valve job on the intake side , a 32deg back cut on the valve & blended the chamber. picked up 10 cfm from .200 -.700 lift with no other port work. the exhaust has a 30deg top cut, and a 45 seat with a radius.picked up 8-10 cfm from 200-500 lift & 16 cfm at 700 lift.just blended the valve job & chamber.I dont want to sound like im busting 440 source's chops,im still pleased with these heads,but another problem I found was the seats were not driven all the way down. they were about .010 to high. I plan on hogging these things out this weekend & reflowing them monday.
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Here are my flow #'s for my stealt heads.I didn't try to port these things to the max,because it defeats the reason for buying these heads in the first place.For the money spent vs flow potential, I think they are a good deal. I also compared these #'s to the mopar performance aluminum head and the stealths flow better.

.100-82 .100-81
.200-178 .200-147
.300-231 .300-169
.400-274 .400-194
.500-292 .500-211
.600-300 .600-224
.700-301 .700-231

I used a 4.500 stand [its the smallest we've got]so the #'s will be down a little if you use the correct bore for your application.We use a 1020 bench which is alot more accurate than a 600 bench, also the 600 bench will read higher flow #'s on the int side than the 1020.

My buddy is in the process of building a 383 for a customer, I told him to make sure and check the situation with the head gasket protruding into the chamber, and sure enough it was doing that. He said might he be able to find a gasket that works, but he was planning to pay around $300 to fix the heads if that doesn't work out. He wanted to use the cheaper heads so there is enough room in the budget for a hydraulic roller cam (to combat the last years' flat tappet headaches), and custom pistons (to have good quench).
So basically what I was saying that it's possible you'll have some head gasket/chamber mismatch that you'll have to fix somehow. Include it in your costs and you'll be able to make a decision on your own. As to it not being a real problem according to the 440Source...I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Ran