Help wiring a Engine Run stand please! (Easy diagram)

I think you have a couple things mis-labelled, and you do not have a ballast.
I'll do a rough remix of your picture and post.
Just as a suggestion, wiring diagrams tend to follow the rule of power on top, down through the components to ground at the bottom.

As said, I think the main feed for the starter switch is the center post, not the smaller side post.

I did not include the ballast and ignition wiring. The links in a past post cover that.

Yep.
Note that you have no power feed to the ignition switch.

The fuse block is really not needed.
You could run circuit breakers instead.
Will you have mechanical gauges?

Wiring is simple if you take it slow, understand what is happening and follow basic rules.

1. You need a big cable from Battery - to ground. ALL power feeds back through this cable.
2. You need a big cable from the battery + to the starter. This supplies the most amps (flow) to the component that uses the most power.
3. The starter needs a trigger. This is the power feed from Batt+ to the ignition switch, thru the switch when the key is turned to the start position, which goes to the solenoid. The solenoid is supplied Batt + with a big wire. When it's triggered with the switch circuit, it connects this to the wire that goes to the smaller terminal in the starter.
The solenoid works like a relay. A small trigger opens a big valve.
Here's a good video of a ford style solenoid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pp8D99bIt3Y
The Chrysler style does not handle all the battery power to the starter like the Ford shown, just the trigger part.
It also has 2 heavy terminals and 2 lighter terminals.
The light terminals are the ignition switch input (+) and the clutch or neutral safety switch (-).
These cause the BATT and SOL terminals to be connected, allowing power to flow from the battery to the starter.

Awesome job on the stand !
Would you have more pics and dimensions ? Will a tranny bolt up with it also ?
I'm wanting to build one also..... And sorry I'm no help on the wiring either....
Donnie

Thanks for the help guys. I wired it just like the last diagram and it worked perfectly. 2 gallons of gas lasted about as long as the battery and I got about 25 minutes of 2,000 rpm break in.

As for hooking a transmission up to the stand, I built mine 100% modular so I can make any adjustments. Everything slides and moves, but once locked in place it's rock solid. I used receiver hitch steel (about $10 a foot) and drilled / welded nuts in place. I will post some more photos.

Again, thank you for all the help with the wiring.

Great job on this. I too would like some demensions and photos of the structure!

Nice stand but without any way of loading the engine for breakin its kind of a waste of time isnt it ?

It's a good way to check everything before the hassle of installing it in a tight engine bay . Finding leaks , low oil pressure , odd sounds or what ever . It can also be helpful breaking in the cam..
I was thinking about pulling the 440 out of my 37 dodge ratrod to do it. But I would like to build one of these instead.
I can get most of the steel from a buddy who's a welder. I can cut and weld it up myself.
I've seen guys use old k-members for this .

This is a awesome build ,and I'm looking forward to making one

Sorry , I'm not trying to hijack this thread ,It's just that this would be such a nice addition to the garage !
Im glad the wiring is straightened out, plus this is a bump for you