Moparts

Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions

Posted By: vandude

Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 01:18 PM

I'm building a cold-air intake for my van and want to paint the carb bonnet to match the valve covers.(shown below)



Can anyone recommend a spray-can brand and/or application tips for black wrinkle-finish paint?
Posted By: VoodooCLD

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 02:53 PM

I've used some stuff from orielly's. it was pretty expensive (about $10 a can) and i can't remember the name, but i really liked it. I painted the dash on my Harley and it really blended well with the factory crinkle paint. It's a little difficult to get the hang of spraying. You need to spray it on heavy and even coated, and it's best if you can put it in the oven so the wrinkle is uniform. It also takes forever to dry (give it a few days mininum)


I found it. Its VHT wrinkle plus.

heres a link

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...8&ppt=C0171


cheers.
Posted By: RodStRace

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 03:21 PM

I used the spray stuff too. If you have some of those halogen shop lights that put out heat, they can work instead of the oven.
Nice, thick second coat and bake...
Posted By: burdar

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 05:42 PM

The VHT paint is a wrinkle finish. I wouldn't call the MP valve covers a wrinkle finish. It's more of a sand texture. I'd just go to your store of choice and buy a sand finish paint. Then top coat with a semi-gloss black and I think it will look close to the MP valve covers.
Posted By: autoxcuda

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 05:48 PM

Bake it.

Put the bare metal in the oven to about 200 degrees. Then shoot. bake some more. Than second coat. etc. Doesn't have to be thick coats as long as part stays warm. Then finsh with 350 deg. for like 30 minutes.

I first put on too thick of a coat on that valve cover below and got that run.

Extremely consistant wrinkle. Way durable. As close to powdercoating as you can get.

You can do this with any paint out of a can. No fisheyes and way tougher surface.





Attached picture 7116623-2_6_11Sm6.JPG
Posted By: gtx6970

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/13/12 06:21 PM

FYI,

If your planning on heating said part in the wifes oven.
Do NOT , I repeat DO NOT completely close the oven door.

Fumes will build up and you 'MIGHT' get an explosion damaging the oven or door, or worst.

don't ask.
Posted By: jmf340

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/14/12 02:28 AM

Also on the list of DO NOTs......

DO NOT......
use your wife's oven
tell her if you did decide to use it
or tell her you found it out from us on the board
Posted By: RapidRobert

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/14/12 04:49 AM

Quote:

DO NOT......
use your wife's oven
tell her if you did decide to use it
or tell her you found it out from us on the board


especially if she knows where this site is
Posted By: vandude

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/14/12 07:25 AM

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to share your experience.

As nice as a dedicated oven would be in my garage, I'm saving that circuit for an air compressor, so heating the Air cleaner will have to be done with shop lights as suggested, or maybe hanging it in front of the garage furnace while it's blasting away will work.

It wouldn't be up to the standards most of you have for parts on your ride, but the system I'm doing is just a stock '73 2-bbl air cleaner housing "morphed" with the finned MP open-element air cleaner, and fed by home HVAC ducting from the cowl.



To combine the lids, The finned MP piece remains unaltered. I cut the raised center section (red arrow, below) out of the middle of the stock lid.



Then I made cuts in the remaining section and bent it down flat.
(See "doctored" pics below)This still provides plenty of support strength, and allows the MP lid to sit flush (except fins) inside the outer flange.



The outer section (red arrow, below)) of the MP base was cut off, and the remaining center section replaces the one cut out of the 2-bbl. base. The 2-bbl. base has cuts in the remaining outer section,(like the lid) but the "tabs" have been bent upward to match the curve of the MP center, which sit on top of them.




It may seem like a lot of work just for a "pretty" air cleaner but the "engine compartment" of an old Dodge van is a liitle sweat-lodge on steroids, and just isn't friendly to an open element air cleaner. Total investment so far, is $50.72 with most of that($40.63) going towards a K&N stock replacement filter (for a '75-76 Mustang II w/V8) Hopefully, the finished system won't total for much more than $100.
The 2-bbl. base has cuts in the remaining outer section,(like the lid) but the "tabs" have been bent upward to match the curve of the MP center, which sit on top of them.
Posted By: gogo318

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/14/12 08:48 AM

i run an open air breather in my van and she has 4 barrel and headers
Posted By: Dodgeguy101

Re: Black "Wrinkle-Finish" Paint Questions - 03/14/12 05:34 PM

Quote:

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to share your experience.

As nice as a dedicated oven would be in my garage, I'm saving that circuit for an air compressor, so heating the Air cleaner will have to be done with shop lights as suggested, or maybe hanging it in front of the garage furnace while it's blasting away will work.

It wouldn't be up to the standards most of you have for parts on your ride, but the system I'm doing is just a stock '73 2-bbl air cleaner housing "morphed" with the finned MP open-element air cleaner, and fed by home HVAC ducting from the cowl.



To combine the lids, The finned MP piece remains unaltered. I cut the raised center section (red arrow, below) out of the middle of the stock lid.



Then I made cuts in the remaining section and bent it down flat.
(See "doctored" pics below)This still provides plenty of support strength, and allows the MP lid to sit flush (except fins) inside the outer flange.



The outer section (red arrow, below)) of the MP base was cut off, and the remaining center section replaces the one cut out of the 2-bbl. base. The 2-bbl. base has cuts in the remaining outer section,(like the lid) but the "tabs" have been bent upward to match the curve of the MP center, which sit on top of them.




It may seem like a lot of work just for a "pretty" air cleaner but the "engine compartment" of an old Dodge van is a liitle sweat-lodge on steroids, and just isn't friendly to an open element air cleaner. Total investment so far, is $50.72 with most of that($40.63) going towards a K&N stock replacement filter (for a '75-76 Mustang II w/V8) Hopefully, the finished system won't total for much more than $100.
The 2-bbl. base has cuts in the remaining outer section,(like the lid) but the "tabs" have been bent upward to match the curve of the MP center, which sit on top of them.




That is a nice job. If that is what you want, go for it. I have a few projects if you are available.
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