Posted By: larrymopar360
Do I need zinc additive? - 02/01/12 03:52 PM
I should have thought of this sooner; should I be using a zinc additive in my stock 1980 E58 Aspen?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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If it were me- Anything made before 1990 gets Zinc additive- or I run Delvac or Rotella or comparable diesel oil. Not the synthetic though. The standard diesel oils have a high zinc content.
Run a search of the forum, you will find a number of posts about this topic.
CC.
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If it were me- Anything made before 1990 gets Zinc additive- or I run Delvac or Rotella or comparable diesel oil. Not the synthetic though. The standard diesel oils have a high zinc content.
Run a search of the forum, you will find a number of posts about this topic.
CC.
Weren't the diesel oils changed about 4 years ago though ?
I would say he wants an ADDITIVE , how is break in lube formulated compared to an additive.
I think the best oil is one that has the zinc in it .
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For a stock 360? Guys, get real. Stock valve springs that have way less than 100# seat pressure, already broken in, with a .4" lift cam? Whatever oil you buy will have plenty of lubrication power. There are literally millions of flat tappet stock engines running around using whatever oil Grease Monkey puts in with no failures.
Find something more important to worry about. Like the high price of arugula at your local grocer's (No_Politics reference).
R.
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If it were me- Anything made before 1990 gets Zinc additive- or I run Delvac or Rotella or comparable diesel oil. Not the synthetic though. The standard diesel oils have a high zinc content.
Run a search of the forum, you will find a number of posts about this topic.
CC.
Weren't the diesel oils changed about 4 years ago though ?
I would say he wants an ADDITIVE , how is break in lube formulated compared to an additive.
I think the best oil is one that has the zinc in it .
would 5 qrts of STP be enuff ZDDP?
I have used 2-3 qrts to quiet the rod knock down before..be me thinks it was a little to late at the time for ZDDP to save it.
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If it were me- Anything made before 1990 gets Zinc additive- or I run Delvac or Rotella or comparable diesel oil. Not the synthetic though. The standard diesel oils have a high zinc content.
Run a search of the forum, you will find a number of posts about this topic.
CC.
Weren't the diesel oils changed about 4 years ago though ?
I would say he wants an ADDITIVE , how is break in lube formulated compared to an additive.
I think the best oil is one that has the zinc in it .
would 5 qrts of STP be enuff ZDDP?
I have used 2-3 qrts to quiet the rod knock down before..be me thinks it was a little to late at the time for ZDDP to save it.
The zinc is for the cam and lifters not the bearings.
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I should have thought of this sooner; should I be using a zinc additive in my stock 1980 E58 Aspen?
Thanks.
Quote:Quote:
I should have thought of this sooner; should I be using a zinc additive in my stock 1980 E58 Aspen?
Thanks.
The cheapeast wallmart brand oil available today is lightyears ahead of the best oil in the 70s/80s/ most of the 90s. Imo, I wouldn't worry about adding zinc. Especially in a hydraulic cammed engine.
Quote:It will always get regular maintenance from me. Thanks.
All true but as I said, for his stock E58, its nothing to be worried about. Just maintain regular maitnence. But if it makes him fell better, go for it.
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Brad Penn has the correct amount of zinc and is cheaper than using an additive.
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I should have thought of this sooner; should I be using a zinc additive in my stock 1980 E58 Aspen?
Thanks.
The cheapeast wallmart brand oil available today is lightyears ahead of the best oil in the 70s/80s/ most of the 90s. Imo, I wouldn't worry about adding zinc. Especially in a hydraulic cammed engine.
While the oil is better in MOST aspects, its NOT better at lubricating the extremely small contact patch between a cam lobe and its lifter face. Zinc/Phosphorus is/was added to aid in this task.
Problem---modern engines have Catalytic converters, Zinc/PH deposits attack and destroy the reactive metals in a cat that are required in order for it to function. BUT----modern engines are roller cammed and do not require the Zinc/PH, so the EPA drastically reduced the Zinc/PH in oils so that cats will live longer.
Hydraulic or solid has nothing to do with it. Spring rates and lift does.
True a smogger 360 needs little zinc to live, but its still a concern.
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Brad Penn has the correct amount of zinc and is cheaper than using an additive.
Not even close, Lucas $15, 3 servings per container, so it works out to $5/oil extra per change.
Try to find Brad Penn for less than $7/qt not including shipping.
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The cheapeast wallmart brand oil available today is lightyears ahead of the best oil in the 70s/80s/ most of the 90s. Imo, I wouldn't worry about adding zinc. Especially in a hydraulic cammed engine.
While the oil is better in MOST aspects, its NOT better at lubricating the extremely small contact patch between a cam lobe and its lifter face. Zinc/Phosphorus is/was added to aid in this task.
Problem---modern engines have Catalytic converters, Zinc/PH deposits attack and destroy the reactive metals in a cat that are required in order for it to function. BUT----modern engines are roller cammed and do not require the Zinc/PH, so the EPA drastically reduced the Zinc/PH in oils so that cats will live longer.
Hydraulic or solid has nothing to do with it. Spring rates and lift does.
True a smogger 360 needs little zinc to live, but its still a concern.
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SO what your telling me is that in a normal street driven engine, a engine with say Amsoil outlast an engine with the cheapest wallmart brand oil? For things such as rings/bearings/cyl.walls/etc. Not arguing, I'm just curious if this is correct.
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SO what your telling me is that in a normal street driven engine, a engine with say Amsoil outlast an engine with the cheapest wallmart brand oil? For things such as rings/bearings/cyl.walls/etc. Not arguing, I'm just curious if this is correct.