Torsion bar

Can you raise the front end (turn torsion bar adjuster CW) with the tires on the ground, or will it snap the bolt? I started to do this and then realized something was going to give. I'm wondering if I weakened the adjuster bolt.

I don't know if it's the recommended way to do it but that's how I've always set the ride height on mine. I do use a long-handled ratchet and not an air wrench (don't think it would fit anyway) and spray the threads with penetrating oil.
Edit: Just looked in my old Chiltons Manual and that's the way they describe doing it.

Tim

Yup.... spray the adjuster bolts with good penetrating oil and let sit a while 10-15 mins..Get a good deep well 6 point socket and rachet or I use an impact wrench after the penetrating oil works a bit. It is much faster as long as you raise each side up a little at a time. Works every time!
HR 20

The way I did them when I did the F&M bodies(pre-proto
type builds)was dial them up with out load them higher
than spec, then drop the car...jounce the front end...
take a measurement then if it was close when on
the ground... then take a 1/2 turn a out then jounce
again... if real close use less of a turn but jounce
the front every time... I never liked going up while
on the ground

You are better served when making ANY height adjustment to first loosen the LCA pivot shaft.

After making adjustments (loaded/unloaded doesn't really make a difference), bounce the heck out of the front end, and THEN retighten the pivot shaft.

If you skip this part of the procedure, the LCA bushing carries a load or "twist" at rest - which can lead to unnecessary wear on the bushing.

Just remember that any height adjustment will effect your camber setting.

Quote:

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Just remember that any height adjustment will effect your camber setting.

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In most cases that run a double A-arm it will affect
all 3 adjustments, camber, caster and toe in but
if you only move it a small amount it may not show up